2018 POTD Thread Archive

Had to do a wheel bearing replacement on a 96 Suzuki Sidekick 4x4. These use a single common race with a inner and outer tapered bearing that are tightened to 150 lb/ft preload. At home I would have just set it up on the press to get the race out, but on our little island there is no press, nor much else in the way of special tools. I built a puller of sorts out of some all thread, the hub nut socket, and the motor plate from my engine stand (long story). Put some anti seize on the all thread and hit it with the a 1/2" impact at 150psi. The bearing race was unimpressed (pun intended). Scratched my head, and thought for a minute or two, and decided to cut the race to loosen it up in the bore. Got out the sawzall and a good metal bade, and once again the race was totally unimpressed. More head scratching. Looked around my little shop and dug out my dremel and a small carbide bur. About two hours later, after several cool down periods for the dremel made it through about 90% of the depth of the race up to the raised portion of the bore in the hub that the race bottomed on. Set my puller back up and ever so slowly the race moved out about 3/8", flush with the plate I was pulling against. Removed the puller, and ground through the last section of the race, and was then able to knock out the race. That was one tight interference fit. After all that, I didn't want to run into problems installing the new one, so I heated up the abs reluctor wheel and pulled it off the hub, put the bearing/race assembly in the freezer over night, and the next morning heated up the hub with the map torch and the frozen bearing assembly dropped right into the bore. Easy peasy compared to the removal. So after about a week total, of taking the ferry to the big island to find the parts, rounding up stuff to make the puller, and actually doing what back home would be a 1hr job, we are once again mobile. Makes me appreciate all the more, some of the things accomplished by some of are members here from other areas of the world, that don't have close to hand many of the things we take for granted in the good ole US of A. Cheers, Mike
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Todays POTD,
After shift this morning we walked the ruffians then I went to work on the tow vehicle for the upcoming "redeye express". I wanted to change out the two fuel filters and Allison tranny filter as well as a thorough general inspection. The rig will be running for a solid 16-18 hours hauling.

Popped off the passengers side inner fender to have full access to the OEM fuel filter. I used to work from the topside but my back always complained so now its just easier to work from a stool through the fender. The second filter was added when the truck was brand new. I had done extensive research prior to purchasing the GMC and found the early Duramax diesels had injector issues related to weak OEM filters, mostly found on 2000-2002 models. GM has addressed the issue but at 24K psi injection system on the LLY, any debris will kill the ceramic seats so I installed a secondary filter. Two options for install are pre OEM or post OEM, I opted for the first. This means the fuel is pre filtered prior to the OEM filter. I normally service both, then after 12K miles, I'll service the pre OEM then both after another 24K miles and so on. I have never had fuel delivery issues so the program works. I only use this rig for towing so it gets a workout. The Allison gets a filter (spin on/off) every 30K miles and a tranny service every 45K miles. Heat is your enemy and summer towing in Arizona makes it worse.

The goods:
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Inner fender removed provides easy access to the OEM filter. The water sensor screws on the bottom of filter.
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Prepping the new filter with a new O-ring on the water sensor and larger O-ring on the mating surface to the priming housing.
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I changed out the priming bleeder with a brass T-valve with a line to catch the primed fuel. GM feels it's ok to **** diesel all over the exhaust manifold when priming.
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Here you can see the T valve commonly found under most kitchen sinks that provide a water supply to ice makers.
This really keeps things clean and safe. Pump plunger until you feel resistance, then open valve and watch for a solid stream of fuel through the opaque line. Rinse and repeat until all air is out of system.
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Heres the pre OEM Baldwin 2 micron filter. It bolts where a secondary compressor would mount. Easy access up front.
Priming takes twice as long as this filter is bigger.
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All primed! and ready to fire up.
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If the rig shuts down, then make sure the filters are tight. Vacuum will draw air into the system resulting in stalling. Also check the bleeder or in this case the ensure the T-valve is closed.
Button up the inner fender, let idle for 10 or until warmed up and shut down to change the Allison filter. I pre-fill the filter eliminate having to top off from the dip stick. Don't forget to clean the doughnut magnet and reinstall inside the new filter.
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fire up and check for leaks.
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Everything looked good and a test drive to fill up with diesel for an early departure on Thursday. I decided to head out at 02:00 to arrive at Acra around 10:00 am. They go to lunch at noon so I want to be heading back with the new machine without delay. With the trailer done last Saturday there was only one more thing to prep for the trip, so I package up the damaged lathe.

I draped moving quilts over both ends of the machine and three more down the middle over the original shrink wrapping. Using large papper binders to keep the quilts tucked in until wrapped, Mrs. firestopper helped me wrap the hell out of the said quilts to keep them in place.
This will prevent any further damage to the paint.
Before the quilts:
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After the quilts and shrink wrapped (backside).
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Front side.
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Tailstock end.
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The quilts where folded much like you would wrap a box with 45º corners keeping it smooth and from bunching up. Plenty of corner protection and elsewhere.
And finally wrapped in a tarp and secured with nylon banding straps. Same care was taken keeping the corners tucked and facing backward keeping the wind from getting under the folds at highway speed.
Backside.
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Frontside.
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Tailstock end.
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I will be packaging the replacement the same way. BTW, every bolt on the pallet where finger loose, I'm taking a 7/8" and 3/4" wrenches to ensure the new/replacement machine's pallet is tight. I suspect the wood might have dried out/shrunk since they built the pallet. I cant imagine why else they where so loose. Wednesday, The machine will be loaded as well as spare tires, necessary tools, fire extinguisher,extra tarps, shrink wrap, duck tape and floor jack. Better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it....Back on shift tomorrow.
A full day with no real fun shop work.

Good night,
Paco

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Nice fix Mike, reminded me of woking aboard a ship. Make do with what you have.
It also reminded me of the stubborn bushings I'm currently fighting with:confused 3:.
Take care amigo,
Paco
 
Wednesday, The machine will be loaded as well as spare tires, necessary tools, fire extinguisher,extra tarps, shrink wrap, duck tape and floor jack. Better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it....Back on shift tomorrow.
A full day with no real fun shop work.
Have a good trip Paco.
 
Had to do a wheel bearing replacement on a 96 Suzuki Sidekick 4x4. These use a single common race with a inner and outer tapered bearing that are tightened to 150 lb/ft preload. At home I would have just set it up on the press to get the race out, but on our little island there is no press, nor much else in the way of special tools. Mike

Mike, a good trick to use in that situation, if you have a welder of any sort, is to run a bead of weld around the inside of the bearing race.

It will shrink on cooling and then the race usually just drops out.

Bernard
 
Have a good trip Paco.

Thanks Jeff, appreciate that.

firestopper, you'd better plan on an extra 1/2 day just to unwrap that thing!

Hey Mike, Hahah, I don't want Acra to think for a second I contributed to a single scratch/ding. Sanving my receipts in hopes of swap for a taper attachment. They get $1,500 for one. They owe me $500 for the original shipping and a dedicated truck from Acra to my location and back would not be cheap. All they can say is no and I'm ok with that so long as the shipping is refunded.
Paco
 
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Mike, a good trick to use in that situation, if you have a welder of any sort, is to run a bead of weld around the inside of the bearing race.

It will shrink on cooling and then the race usually just drops out.

Bernard

Thanks Bernard, I'm aware of that one. I use it to take out valve seats in cylinder heads at home, but don't have one here. Mike
 
Thanks Jeff, appreciate that.



Hey Mike, Hahah, I don't want Acra to think for a second I contributed to a single scratch/ding. Sanving my recipes in hopes of swap for a taper attachment. They get $1,500 for one. They owe me $500 for the original shipping and a dedicated truck from Acra to my location and back would not be cheap. All they can say is no and I'm ok with that so long as the shipping is refunded.
Paco
Careful on the drive, DOT has changed the laws. With your weight capacity (GCWR) you could get busted if you dont have a DOT Medical Card and if you are doing it for profit or work you need digital log books and a DOT Number.
 
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