Yep, that's a nice finish.The macro shot makes it look not so hot, but it's an excellent finish for 1018!
View attachment 256721
Not sure if this goes here because it didn't all happen today, but some of it did.
I knew I'd need more light than the halogen lamp that came with the G4003G so I had my electrician pull in a switched 120V when he pulled the feed in for the lathe.
Finally got my light hung after I got my MIG to quit balling up my wire feed:
View attachment 155341
The wire feed for the halogen lamp kept getting in the way of clean up so I tidied that up a little:
View attachment 155342
Also didn't like to have to fidgit with a brush and a dustpan to get the swarf over the lip of the pan and my vacuum cleaner kept getting clogged up so I installed a scupper.
The fixin's:
View attachment 155343
Getting it installed:
View attachment 155344
And viola!:
View attachment 155345
My QCTP came clocked inconveniently from the factory. It made changing the toolholder a PIA so I moved the handle. Much more convenient now:
View attachment 155346
Finally got around to making this. Sure helps these tired ol' dawgs:
View attachment 155347
Mama just called and vittles are on, gotta run.
More to follow. Thanks for looking.
Dale
I have the same style facing tool. I use 1/2" carbide tipped lathe bits in mine and resharpen them as well. I have always had a problem with surface finish. I was watching a video of the Tormach Superfly fly cutter which gives a superior surface finish and realized that the geometry of leading edge was what made the difference. I grind a slight radial and tangential rake on the bits but the secret is to put a small chamfer (about .050"@ 45º) on the leading edge of each. The difference in surface finish was amazing. Perhaps even better would .050" radius but that is more difficult grinding by hand.Have to agree about the camera making things look worse than they are.
I took these pics of some mystery steel that was finished with a face mill that came with my mill / drill. The face mill worked great the first time I used it but the cutters got dull very fast and after a few uses I couldn't get a nice finish. I tried to sharpen the cutters by hand but it got worse. I gave up on the face mill until recently. I made a Harold Hall simple grinding rest and that gave me the control I needed to sharpen each of the cutters the same. Here are some pics of the face mill with the sharpened cutters and the surface they produced. This looks like the cutting edges are extremely rough but they weren't anywhere near as bad as they look. This was a test run on a coarse wheel and after this first run I used a finer grinding wheel to get a better finish. The surface finish was also a lot better than it looks. It was very smooth to the touch. I did this a few days ago but didn't post pics because the surface doesn't look good in the pics.
These aren't the original bits. I replaced them with some 1/2" HSS ones
I hear you Mike, I used to muck one up every time I worked on the trailers that I started stocking one or two on the shelf. In fact, I have a new spare that will probably last me a long time now. The other way I have jacked them up is kissing a hub with skid steer loader tire when dumping dirt into the dump trailer, But don't plan on any more large scale dirt project on the property. Make one!, thats why I shared.Firestopper, you could make a fortune selling your hubcap tool. I know I usually manage to mangle (or dent) at least one out of four every time I pack trailer wheel hearings. Then when I smash one I get PO'ed and just whack the rest without a care.