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2018 POTD Thread Archive
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ecdez
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I almost got attacked by a stray dog in my yard and it gave me an idea for something to make.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2013
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a few different projects over the past few weeks.
Some T-nuts. Got a mostly complete clamping kit with my mill but it only had 1 T-nut. Being a tight ar$e I decided to make my own from a piece of scrap bin steel
action shot with a 1/4" rougher
blank finished
drilled and tapped
then cut in my bandsaw (which resulted in me making a work stop..), with a couple needing some FTF work (file to fit). Some of them ended up with the hole towards one end and I'm not entirely sure why, but they'll work fine
that should do me for T-nuts for a while!
Some T-nuts. Got a mostly complete clamping kit with my mill but it only had 1 T-nut. Being a tight ar$e I decided to make my own from a piece of scrap bin steel
action shot with a 1/4" rougher
blank finished
drilled and tapped
then cut in my bandsaw (which resulted in me making a work stop..), with a couple needing some FTF work (file to fit). Some of them ended up with the hole towards one end and I'm not entirely sure why, but they'll work fine
that should do me for T-nuts for a while!
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2013
- Messages
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working on my commuter bike (happens alot) and the nut on the front skewer strips out. Rummage around in the scrap bin and pull out a little chunk of stainless - I don't want this to rust but I also didn't want the threads to strip out again, so stainless seemed like a good option. Don't care about the weight, the bike is already plenty heavy not to worry about it!
Bit of whittling on the lathe, drilled and tapped for M5 thread and some triangle file work =
old nut on right
on the bike (yeah I know I need to make a better spacer for the mudguard)
Bit of whittling on the lathe, drilled and tapped for M5 thread and some triangle file work =
old nut on right
on the bike (yeah I know I need to make a better spacer for the mudguard)
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- Sep 28, 2013
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last up, broke a spoke on the rear wheel of said bike but part of my wheel truing stand had broken in a previous move. Guess I better fix that so I can fix my bike! The part that broke held one side of the axle, so another rummage in the scrap bin turned up an appropriately sized piece of alu.
Turned it to fit the stand, parted it off in the lathe, then set it up in the mill. Cut the slot for the axle first, then whittled the rest away with a rougher before finishing with a ball nose end mill
Drilled and tapped for a holding screw and deburred the edges. Here it is next to the old broken plastic part
in action!
alright, procrastination break over
Turned it to fit the stand, parted it off in the lathe, then set it up in the mill. Cut the slot for the axle first, then whittled the rest away with a rougher before finishing with a ball nose end mill
Drilled and tapped for a holding screw and deburred the edges. Here it is next to the old broken plastic part
in action!
alright, procrastination break over
Made a deburring blade holder. I made this with the dimensions for a b blade but u have s blades I think they are. It functions the way it is as the blade sits deep in a reamed hole but there is nothing keeping the blade from pulling out. I think the fix will be a ball bearing and a set screw if it proves troublesome.
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- Feb 2, 2014
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I made a bandsaw a couple of years back mainly for wood projects but I soon wanted to cut some aluminum so I added a slower second motor with a 3 to 1 reduction and a one way bearing. That worked fine for wood and aluminum and have used it that way since but I needed to cut some thin wall square steel tubing that I couldn't get in the HF 4X6 bandsaw. Well that didn't work for long and after three cuts the blade was shot.
SO
I added another 3 to 1 reduction between the motors so I now have a low speed of 150FPM or high speed of 2400FPM by flipping a switch.
That should solve the problem and I had fun doing it.
The only thing I had to buy was another belt and a new bandsaw blade.
Thanks for looking
Ray
SO
I added another 3 to 1 reduction between the motors so I now have a low speed of 150FPM or high speed of 2400FPM by flipping a switch.
That should solve the problem and I had fun doing it.
The only thing I had to buy was another belt and a new bandsaw blade.
Thanks for looking
Ray
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Novel idea. Just concerned, Did you do the math to be sure you are not overspeeding the slow speed motor?
If its a 3 to 1 reduction, and the other motor is a 2 to 1 increase, not counting the motor speed difference, you are turning the GE motor 6 times its rated value.
If its a 3 to 1 reduction, and the other motor is a 2 to 1 increase, not counting the motor speed difference, you are turning the GE motor 6 times its rated value.
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This is the original post of making the band saw . https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/bandsaw-project.31960/
And here is the post of the first 3 to 1 reduction. https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/slowing-down-the-band-saw.38093/#post-346544
When the high speed motor is running the slow speed motor does not turn because of the one way bearing. I got the bearing off EBay and there was several to choose from.
Thanks for the reply
Ray
And here is the post of the first 3 to 1 reduction. https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/slowing-down-the-band-saw.38093/#post-346544
When the high speed motor is running the slow speed motor does not turn because of the one way bearing. I got the bearing off EBay and there was several to choose from.
Thanks for the reply
Ray