2017 - The Original "What Did You Buy Today?" Mega Thread

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Today i went to look couple of mills at private sellers, way too expensive for their condition, but did buy couple of big boring bars, both sandvik made in sweden, one is an interesting design it has an bolted head, and is right angled, someone has mill couple of flats to be able to hold it, but i plan to make an tool holder for an round shank tools, they are quite large and the previous owner could not use them because his lathe was too small, i did test fit them and my tool holder has room to spare, i'm quite satisfied i only had brazed on big boring bars and i prefer insert tooling also i bought them at a fair price.
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Cheapo boring bars. Could have been a waste of $15?
Those boring bars work OK, but often need to be properly ground first. Often there is not enough relief under the cutting edge, especially when boring smaller holes. The rubbing below the cutting edge can be seen if you you look carefully. If so, the steel shank and the brazed carbide can be ground (separately) to make more clearance. The quick and dirty fix is to roll the bar downward a bit to a negative rake, which also changes the geometry to give more clearance. Change the tool height to keep the cutting edge on center. Amazingly, I have got very good results with the negative rake cutting angle. Moving the tool above center also gives more relief, though I have not had so good results with trying it... Unfortunately, grinding the carbide requires diamonds to do a good job, Silicon Carbide wheels can be used for roughing, and the edges will be rough afterwards. They can be finished honed with a diamond "file" or diamond "credit card."
 
Cheapo boring bars. Could have been a waste of $15?

that was one of the biggest mistakes I've made this year, I have the same set they are garbage. I bought a 1/2"carbide insert boring bar from mesatool.com works great in my boring head.
 
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Those boring bars work OK, but often need to be properly ground first. Often there is not enough relief under the cutting edge, especially when boring smaller holes. The rubbing below the cutting edge can be seen if you you look carefully. If so, the steel shank and the brazed carbide can be ground (separately) to make more clearance. The quick and dirty fix is to roll the bar downward a bit to a negative rake, which also changes the geometry to give more clearance. Change the tool height to keep the cutting edge on center. Amazingly, I have got very good results with the negative rake cutting angle. Moving the tool above center also gives more relief, though I have not had so good results with trying it... Unfortunately, grinding the carbide requires diamonds to do a good job, Silicon Carbide wheels can be used for roughing, and the edges will be rough afterwards. They can be finished honed with a diamond "file" or diamond "credit card."
Bob,
Thanks. I watched a YouTube video after placing my order that explained why they’re junk. :mad: From the explanation it seemed like I could make them work ok if I addressed the clearance/rake. I have a coarse (~120) and fine (~600) diamond stone for flattening wood plane blades. I figured I’d give those a shot.
Evan
 
that was one of the biggest mistakes I've made this year, I have the same set they are garbage. I bought a 1/2"carbide insert boring bar from mesatool.com works great in my boring head.
Unfortunately I can only use a 3/8” bar in my AXA Aloris QCTP. I didn’t look very hard, but I didn’t find any beefy affordable 3/8” bars. (1/2” fits, but the tool edge is above center) Figured I’d try to HotRod these. If buying these is the biggest mistake I make all year it will be a VERY good year!:oops:
 
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I use them all the time. Have wore the carbide away on one set and half way through the second set. as Bob said they need a little tuning but work for me in a non production setting.

Greg
 
I didn't buy this, let's just say I "acquired it", To do a little minor restore job on and have as a to-go unit, which I did not have, It welds well, but has only the 100Hz AC out. Investigation is in order.

BTW, this is my "beater". It's a 90 2500 with a poor tired 305. No air (Yankee Original) but has a TommyLift, which is a back saver, and really other than looking rough, and being worn out, all it needs before I'd want to head cross-country is a front seal in the TH350. Weekend job for a teenager if I can find one. I don't want to wrestle it, so with a little seal sweller, it doesn't drink too bad and I can live with it. It does fine until I put a 8k load on the trailer and try to climb hills. The the mileage shows. Got my eye on an upgrade, so this will see less service.
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