2016 POTD Thread Archive

[Firestopper]

Got a new Igaging 12" caliper deliverd yesterday afternoon. I was waiting for this to turn the register on the new adaptor plate to mount the newly acquired Bison 8" 4-jaw scroll with fine adjustment. It required .082 reduction and took it in three passes. The chuck was a Smokin deal from member mksj and with his generosity I was able to upgrade.
Amazing how quickly it can be dialed in with excellent repeatability. No vibration at any speed, nice and smooth. I placed adaptor plate in the freezer prior to assembling for a nice fit. Mark also presented me with two custom made mini T wrenches. The last photo shows a precision ground arbor I used to test the fine adjustment and got it to read .0000. Amazing upgrade IMO.

 

[Ripthorn]

I finally completed the base plate to the guitar bridge I have been working on. It would have gone quicker had I not spoiled the first piece near the end. One of the quill feed handles caught on a clamp stud causing the machine to think it was moving when it was not. That caused it to take an early turn and ruin it. Oh well, good learning experience. As I like to say, good judgment comes from experience, and experience comes from poor judgment.

 

[rwm]

Making 8 tapped tubing end plugs for one of my camera rigs. I could never be a production machinist...making multiples drive me nuts

+.001 with locktite


View attachment 121851

What type of Loctite did you use?
R

 

[TOOLMASTER]

red

 

[chevydyl]

Franko, I use a little 3/8 ccmt 21.51 boring bar quite often, on steel alu whatever, it chatters and squeals like a motha, something as simple as placing you fingers on the bar can make it stop, but I also take about 3 or 4 spring passes and it cleans the chatter right up and leaves a pretty decent finish.
I prefer my bigger bars when the hole permits their use of course.

 

[f350ca]

Not having much experience with boring bars, I have a question. It seems like if I set the carbide cutting edge at the center, that it would drag. The CCMT insert is pretty thick. I mounted it a tad higher and got very good results. Is that generally true with indexable boring bars? I was boring a 1.25" ID tube. Maybe on a larger diameter it would be ok on center?

It depends on the geometry of the boring bar. The ones I have tilt the insert to get clearance, and you keep the cutting edge on centre. Try rotating the bar to get clearance and see how it goes.

Greg

 

[Sharky]

Drawers painted and stacked to dry.....



New slides and lockset coming, then its time to fill the box!


Sent from my SM-T217S using Tapatalk

 

[chevydyl]

He has the bars from shars, the ccmt ones, they should be the lay down type, I have the sames ones an run em on center

 

[Franko]

It depends on the geometry of the boring bar. The ones I have tilt the insert to get clearance, and you keep the cutting edge on centre. Try rotating the bar to get clearance and see how it goes.

Greg

Thanks, Greg. It is mostly round and fits in a round holder, so I can turn it to any angle that seems right. It does have flats, but my tool holder isn't big enough for them.

 

[JimDawson]

Actually project of the week. Been making piles of UHMW chips! 312 lid brackets for a cargo carrier, each with 7 separate operations. Each operation takes anywhere from 1 to 6 minutes. You guys were talking about production work, I too hate production work, but it pays pretty good. These started out as as three 48 x 96 x 1 1/4 sheets. About 30 hours on the router just to cut them out. About 46 hours to get to this point. Still have about 20 hours left to finish.

Thought I would snap these pictures before I cleaned up for the next operation


About 4 inches deep on the right side, about a foot deep on the left. The good news is that these chips vacuum up very easy.


Putting a 5 inch radius on the bottom, 4 pieces at a time. The toggle clamps were not quite enough to hold them, so add c-clamps.


UPDATE: I cleaned it up. Over 80 gallons of swarf.!!!!!!!
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