When I was in college the 1st/2nd year physics lab had tops made from about 1' diameter steel tubing 1" thick. The ring was about 6" tall, and there was a stem with an air bearing and a central pipe that went to some jets to spin it.
To spin one up you turned on the air to the air bearing and then the central air to the vents. When you shut one down you had to be very careful not to kill the air to the air bearing until the top stopped spinning.
Once someone turned off the air in the wrong sequence and the top destroyed the bearing and went rocketing through a cinder block wall.
It is a non-standard 1mm pitch metric thread about 23mm diameter.
I couldn't test the fit while the piece was still in the lathe, it turned out a bit tight, but I gotter done.
I hadn't done much with the machines in the shop in the last 5 months so it was good to get back in the saddle.
Wow a classic Laverda Jota, you don't see one of those every day! Nice job on the ignition switch nut. If the plastic one lasted 35 years that one should last forever.
Was out deer hunting yesterday and the front Chicago screw for the sling swivel either broke or somehow came loose and ultimately almost dropped the muzzle of my rifle, Needles to say I wasn't happy. But on the bright side it did give me a reason to get a few minutes in the shop today! Stock is 360 brass threaded 8-32 . Fits like a glove and a little blue Loctite on the threads it should be good for a long while.
Finished up on the spindle LED light for my mill. Turned some 1/2" aluminum plate turned down to 0.400" and milled a recess for the spindle so the LED holder would extend only 0.075" below the current spindle ram. It does not interfere with the use of an Indicol indicator holder. I used a 100 mm LED halo light, that is then recessed into the holder and notched out for the wiring. Having a larger diameter LED ring larger then the spindle ram allowed me to recess it deeper and it has less shadows from tooling. I also use a 24" LED bar in the back, provides very nice general lighting of the table with minimal shadows.
Now you just need to add a nice battery powered drill or something to raise and lower it by the push of a button. My back would not stand for leaning over to wind it up and down.
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