2016 POTD Thread Archive

[hermetic]

I made a replacement knob for my Colchester Dominion lathe. It has been missing for a long time and I decided to show it some respect. A little question for anyone that knows Colchester lathes. Does the dark green look like an original colour?

I have seen Colchesters of this era (same as mine) in both the light and dark greens, mine is dark green like this one!
Phil

 

[hman]

The next taper turned out to be a really snug fit and a very nice finish that I was happy with. However I turned it down a tad too far, the large end is undersize. As I made this one with a tang on the end it doesn't engage properly as it slides too far into the 3MT socket. So anyway, tomorrow I'll make another one.

One thing you might try if you want to "save" the taper you made is to cut off the small end, then drill & tap into it and insert either a long setscrew or a bolt with the head cut off. The screw can be set to whatever depth lets you to fully engage the taper, while allowing the tailstock screw to eject it. I have several Morse taper accessories with such a screw, and they work very well.

 

[ebgb68]

That looks great I really need one for my Sheldon

 

[2volts]

One thing you might try if you want to "save" the taper you made is to cut off the small end, then drill & tap into it and insert either a long setscrew or a bolt with the head cut off. The screw can be set to whatever depth lets you to fully engage the taper, while allowing the tailstock screw to eject it. I have several Morse taper accessories with such a screw, and they work very well.

Hman - good tip, I'll do that.
thanks
pete

 

[cascao]

Motorcycle Fork leg regulator. No tools

 

[MozamPete]

As all the holiday guests have finally departed I got to go back to the workshop and spent some time wielding the angle grinder to shape my railway iron anvil which had been sitting around waiting to be done for some time (since I annealed the steel back in April last year).
Still have to tidy up the web and drill a hardie hole - which may be an excuse to have a go at building a square rotary broach. Then I will re-harden and temper the face.

 

[Round in circles]

Looks good for first time doing a Taper.
You might try making a Taper attachment next. They are pretty easy to make. I think I might have used $50 in materials for it.
I made mine out of 1/2" x 4" and 1/2" x 2" Aluminum and it bolts onto the backside of my Craftsman.
Works great and I can make any Taper with it.
View attachment 119513

Hi Mike ,
Can you show everyone interested a picture or two of your taper attachment from the rear view & perhaps one from above the tailstock end please.

I'd like to make one as well as make a die stock holder etc.
Dave

 

[T Bredehoft]

what are these keepers you speak of? like set screws pushing on the threads?
even so I would be a little wary of using a parting blade in this manner given the high pressured nature of that tool.

Sorry it took so long getting back on this. 1) spousal duties required attention elsewhere and 2) I had to make the keeper. uh....I had to make two keepers, the first one was wrong.

The problem is keeping the chuck screwed on the arbor when running the arbor backwards.

I removed the chuck, and cut a groove in the spindle. IT won't unscrew.

Bye the way. all these pictures are 72 DPI, 8 inches wide.

Here's the spindle with the groove cut in it. My cut off tool is .092 wide.


Then I removed the backing plate from the chuck, cut a flat in it and drilled and tapped a hole in it.


Here's the keeper (or key) I made first. it was too short on one end.



I fiddled around with this one, had to do some cutting over due to leaving too much stock in a couple of places.
The material I used is a piece of flame cut scrap from Speedy Metals, 4140. Its probably RC 35-40. I can just file it, I can cut it with high speed, (hack saw to length) but I used my 3 tooth carbide shell mill (1 1/2 od) for most of the cutting.

Anyway, here's the finished product.


As hard as that key is, the chuck isn't going anyplace.

I gotta do something to keep myself amused when I don't have any propeller orders.

 

[zmotorsports]

Quick little project I started on last week for my wife. When we were sitting watching a movie on New Year's Eve, she casually mentioned that she wished she had a small end table to put her drink on next to the love seat in the living room. I don't know if it was an actual hint of just a passing thought. Either way I am not going to risk it.

I scrounged through my metal pile and found a few 4' stick of .5" square tubing. I ran to Lowe's and grabbed a couple of 12" tile off their clearance pallet that I though matched our entry way and bathroom tile as close as possible. Turns out it matches quite close and since they are going to be 10+ feet apart, they will work perfect.

I started with this last night after work.


Using my new Baileigh BS-210M miter head horizontal bandsaw to 45 the ends.


The gauge is pretty accurate. When it is placed on 45-degrees....


It cuts at 45-degrees.


In one instance I was a tag long so I had to take a sliver off.


And a sliver it was measuring .036" and dead nuts parallel all the way through the cut.


All clamped together for tacking.


One of the corner welds.


I then was able to get a feel for my new Birmingham KB-45 vertical bandsaw and was able to see it's accuracy as well.


I needed to cut some spacers to space the tile down into the frame so that the top will be flush with the .5" square tubing. The tile measures .3" so I needed a spacer for each side (4 total) measuring .200". I scribed a line and then manually cut them and was able to consistantly be about .010" over is all, just enough to kiss them on the belt sander and debur them.


Four spacers cut, one already welded in the background to the underside of the framework.


Close-up.


And top frame perimeter completed with tile test fit.


Tonight I can get the legs done and I will frame out a lower section for another 12" tile closer to the floor. My thinking is by having a heavy tile lower on the table it will make it not so top-heavy and be more stable. Plus this way she can put a small planter or something decorative on the bottom shelf.

Stay tuned for the completed project.....

Mike.

 

[zmotorsports]

I used some muriatic acid to etch/clean the metal and then some hydrogen peroxide, vinegar and salt mixed together then spritzed onto the metal while it sat outside in the rain for about half an hour on Saturday afternoon after completing the transmission install on my son's truck.

Here is the freshly patina'd rust on the table that tool all of about a half hour.


I lightly wiped it down to remove the loose stuff and here it is after a couple of coats of clear.


Completed with the tiles inserted and the rubber/plastic feet on the tubing.


I brought it into the house later Saturday night and presented it to my wife. She was pleased.

I used this little project as a "filler project" between several other jobs last week. Total time invested is two hours.

Mike.