2016 POTD Thread Archive

it wasn't a big deal...i know i could have got it out..it was just a pin that needed shortening...just used a band saw instead of the lathe...more po'ed that I broke my new socket bit..
 
Saturday morning I had a hitch adapter to repair for myself and one for a client so I thought I would knock them out.

I have repaired about a dozen hitches and ball mounts in this manner now over the past 10 or so years and they have held up extremely well although they are a bit time consuming to do so if you have to take them to a shop to have done, it may not be cost effective. It is a common issue to have the hitch pin holes elongate over time (mostly miles).

Hitch pin clearance in elongated pin hole.
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Some 1" 8620 I had on the shelf.
htd3ba.jpg

I used a 1" diameter sleeve with .625" hole drilled to accept a standard hitch pin, actually slightly bored out a few thousandths more. I then chamfered the sleeve to accept a weld bead yet be flush with the surrounding stinger. I then bored the elongated hole out to .998" so it would be an interference fit into the stinger before welding using some 309L stainless steel TIG rod. I like the 309 due to the slightly different composition material but also because it gives a slightly better elongation characteristics that seem to hold up better to the shock loads present on the hitches when in use.

Machining the sleeve as well as the side bushings/reducers for the receiver part of the hitch. I have the steel chucked up in my new 5C collet chuck on the lathe.
vyplyc.jpg

Picture of the sleeve pressed in and TIG welded.
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Couple pictures of the first pass around the reducer.
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2d7a4h4.jpg

Couple pictures of the cover pass with a slight weave to increase the size of the fillet.
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2s8gruq.jpg

All in all a pretty straightforward repair but it give a lot more surface area for the hitch pin to spread the load over.

Mike.
 
mksj said:
Very nice work Mike, beautiful welds. The 5C collets/chuck is really handy for smaller stock.
Mark
Click to expand...

Thanks Mark. You're right about the 5C collet chuck. I waffled for long enough before Paco talked me into purchasing one. I don't think it has been off the lathe in the past several weeks that I have owned it.

Mike.
 
Hi Mike,

Nice hitch repair! Like you mentioned, time consuming ,but with a lift at your disposal, it helps for a comfortable welding position.
Glad to see you got the 5C chuck. Did it meet your expectations? I really love mine, it saves so much time and prevents spoilage of stock, especially with the spider addition.

Been under the weather since Sat. but hoping to turn and burn soon.
Paco
 
firestopper said:
Hi Mike,

Nice hitch repair! Like you mentioned, time consuming ,but with a lift at your disposal, it helps for a comfortable welding position.
Glad to see you got the 5C chuck. Did it meet your expectations? I really love mine, it saves so much time and prevents spoilage of stock, especially with the spider addition.

Been under the weather since Sat. but hoping to turn and burn soon.
Paco
Click to expand...

Thanks Paco. Yes the 5C collet chuck is working well. Didn't take long at all to dial in and runs true.

Thanks again for the information and I hope you get feeling better.

Mike.
 
intjonmiller said:
But the left hand threads on the original drive wheel side of the motor mean that if I run it from that side in the position I had it mind, then it will tend to unscrew itself. So what way would you solve that? I would rather not pull the shaft and mount it in the lathe, though I suppose that's an option. Do you think a couple of setscrews would be sufficient? Maybe if I bore and internally thread the drive wheel (just a chunk of home brew aluminum alloy), and add the set screws, then mount it and drive the set screws in to mark the shaft, and then grind flats at those points?

Making things from things on hand is so much more complicated than just designing with whatever you care to order or build. :(
Click to expand...
Take a lead from the reversible drill manufacturers and drill and tap the shaft for a right hand thread locking screw.
 
Jon, I've done a couple of treadmill motor builds and the best way I've found is to drill through for a setscrew and grind a flat or cup in the threads for the set screw to locate on. I tried RJs approach, along with a key, and found that the screw alone allowed enough rotation for the flywheel to unscrew 1/2 a turn or so. Glad your flywheel is balanced though, both mine were pretty far out of balance.

finished an adapter for an LED light I'm building to use on a microscope at work. Bought a new fiber optic light guide and needed some way to hold it in front of the LEDs, so built this
IMG_4947.JPG IMG_4948.JPG

also built a couple of marshmallow guns with the girls - measuring, hacksawing, chamfering on the lathe and some gluing. Then lots of shooting marshmallows at Dad :)
IMG_4946.JPG
 
Do you cut left hand threads in the new drive wheel? I just made a sufficiently small internal threading tool last night (my first such attempt, so practice pieces are called for) in order to do so, but if it were sufficient I wouldn't mind just boring it to the major thread diameter and using a couple setscrews. My assumption is that that's less than ideal. I have a 1" diameter aluminum standoff that will work, and I'm going to pour a 2" wheel blank after work some night this week.
 
I reused the existing flywheels - one as is with a poly V belt (lathe), the other with a V-pulley mounted where the poly V pulley used to be (drill press).

see here for DP conversion
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/thre...-walker-turner-drill-press.42111/#post-402317

and here for lathe
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/atlas-618-treadmill-motor-install.38074/

if you're using a separate drive wheel and grinding wheel (2x72 grinder right?), then the easiest option would be to do what I did with the DP conversion and mount your drive wheel to the treadmill motor flywheel
 
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