2015 POTD Thread Archive

I agree with Cathead and Billy G. If moving the screw hole to where it belongs will cause the new hole to break through into the old one, you can always use a smaller screw. Especially if you are making the threaded rings for adjustment.
 
jrstech said:
I machined a bunch of tool holders yesterday and planned on machining the dovetail today. The plan and the new tool holders went into the garbage/scrap pile. I'll get some new stock Monday and try again. Although we strive to, we can't always be perfect.
View attachment 104903
Click to expand...
send them to me I'll finish and use I'll pay postage+ too.
 
jrstech said:
I machined a bunch of tool holders yesterday and planned on machining the dovetail today. The plan and the new tool holders went into the garbage/scrap pile. I'll get some new stock Monday and try again. Although we strive to, we can't always be perfect.
View attachment 104903
Click to expand...
Looks like there might be enough material there for the screw threads. Just may have to increase the size of the knurled nut to compensate for the hole position. You've got a lot of time into them at this point. Try one!
 
Thanks for all the responses and suggestions everyone. First, I just picked up the facemill at a surplus warehouse a few hours before use, together with a complete 1/2" Teco clamp set that could almost pass for new. Together they cost me $50 Cdn. The facemill has height adjustment screws on each of the square inserts. That will be on todays to do list. I was happy with the finish on the holders as they are now.
What I will try today is to first cut the slot for the dovetail with an end mill to approx. ten thou short of actual depth. This should leave a small part of the tapped hole, which I can tig weld fill in. I'll then finish mill the slot to correct depth and cut in the sides to size, finishing with a newly drilled and tapped hole.
I'm working from plans printed from online, as well as double checking against my Aloris holders.
I just hope I can still drill and tap the new hole so close to the welded repair area. If I drill and tap the hole first, then the weld might break through.
 
I really don't think you will need to fill the original hole. It looks like there is enough meat there for the new one. A partial indentation in the Dovetail will not affect its hold. If the holding does bother you, fill the indentation left with weld after the Dovetail is cut.

"Billy G"
 
jrstech said:
I machined a bunch of tool holders yesterday and planned on machining the dovetail today. The plan and the new tool holders went into the garbage/scrap pile. I'll get some new stock Monday and try again. Although we strive to, we can't always be perfect.
View attachment 104903
Click to expand...
they look nice, do you have enough meat to re tap the hole on the other side and dovetail out where the tapped hole is now? or can you cut the dove tail and fill and void in with weld? you can tig weld to build up material and then machine it back down to what you need..
 
I feel your pain... Really.

Just go ahead and work the dovetail in as if there were no hole. Use a smaller stud for vertical location, it doesn't have to be strengthy, it's just to locate the tool. the tool holder (either wedge or cam) holds the holder in place.
 
Jrstech, that finish your getting looks great, it appears to me that your Mills head is perfectly trammed.
 
jrstech said:
Thanks for all the responses and suggestions everyone. First, I just picked up the facemill at a surplus warehouse a few hours before use, together with a complete 1/2" Teco clamp set that could almost pass for new. Together they cost me $50 Cdn. The facemill has height adjustment screws on each of the square inserts. That will be on todays to do list. I was happy with the finish on the holders as they are now.
What I will try today is to first cut the slot for the dovetail with an end mill to approx. ten thou short of actual depth. This should leave a small part of the tapped hole, which I can tig weld fill in. I'll then finish mill the slot to correct depth and cut in the sides to size, finishing with a newly drilled and tapped hole.
I'm working from plans printed from online, as well as double checking against my Aloris holders.
I just hope I can still drill and tap the new hole so close to the welded repair area. If I drill and tap the hole first, then the weld might break through.
Click to expand...

Something to consider: I just checked my Aloris toolpost and there is a space between the holder and the toolpost itself. I didn't measure it but it looks like 15 to 20 thousandths.
Anyway the point is: It is the dove tail width that creates the bind when you pull the handle. Therefore, it is the dove tail width one machines lightly to get
the proper fit. My tool post is an Aloris CXA, the wedge type. It gets easier after the first one. Good Luck jrstech.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top