2015 POTD Thread Archive

Had enough free time today to churn out one more part for my swage dies. Today I made a little end cap for the top punch holder. The one I already had a max opening of .407". This one has a max opening of .460" and it allows me to hold my 45 cal. top punches. Made from 41L40, 5/8-24 threads with a weak, messed up knurl. It's not perfect, but I'm learning. image.jpgimage.jpg
 
Boostin,did you put the knurled tool up to the part and just turn the lathe on and feed the cross in a little? If so, try this method, lathe off touch the knurled tool to work take note of cross dial reading, back off and bring the carriage right towards tail, feed in 2 thou past your touch reading, put the power feed on slow towards headstock, 600ish rpm, and feed that puppy across the part, rinse and repeat if needed. I had knurls that looked like yours, I changed the method to the one I described and instant perfect knurl
 
Made a monster car truck jack :)

When we got a newer car, my old jack didn't extend enough to safely raise the car plus with the height I was getting tired of all the arm pumping to raise it. So I waited for a sale at HF and got one of their 1.5t quick pump jacks for $60. Unfortunately, it also didn't raise the car high enough :(

So, a chunk of alu tube with bearings from some kind of centrifugal model the physics department was throwing out (next to old front roller)IMG_4271.JPG
Bit of work with some random piece of steel from the scrapyard (shiny surface was from using carbide - think I might have been burnishing rather than cutting!) = 2 reducer bushings
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fits a treat :)
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Monster car jack! Does the back fine, the front needs a small piece of wood to get both wheels off the ground. When I have time and enthusiasm, I might make taller rear caster mounts, but we'll see.
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now I can flush the brakes next weekend, yay!
 
My latest project success, I'm working toward powering the head on my PM25 (bursitis of the right shoulder threatened) in the process of preparation I installed a ball bearing on the shaft behind the crank on the head. Eventually there will be a timing belt pulley on there in place of the crank. Right now the crank is back in place, and, wonder of wonders, it's about 30% easier to crank with the bearing in place.

Carrier and Bearing.jpg

I did find that the shaft isn't square with the face! Right now, the crank wheel is back in place. Ask me how I bored the bearing hole with the part out of the mill...
 
chevydyl said:
Boostin,did you put the knurled tool up to the part and just turn the lathe on and feed the cross in a little? If so, try this method, lathe off touch the knurled tool to work take note of cross dial reading, back off and bring the carriage right towards tail, feed in 2 thou past your touch reading, put the power feed on slow towards headstock, 600ish rpm, and feed that puppy across the part, rinse and repeat if needed. I had knurls that looked like yours, I changed the method to the one I described and instant perfect knurl
Click to expand...

The knurl wheels I used were a set of fine wheels. I went in 2 thou from contact of the stock, but my speed and feed were wrong. I've used these wheels on other projects and had good results. This will do for what I need.
 
I picked up a Noga spray mister with mini magnetic base and fitted it to the air supply on the mill. However I couldn't find a flat surface or even a non-compounded curved surface to hold the darned thing in a position that was easily accessible and where the spray nozzle could reach the work area. I came up with this simple plate and angle iron combo that is bolted to one of the nuts that holds the mill head in tram. The magnet/unit can also be rotated with the pull knob pointed up to give a further reach of the spray nozzle if the quill is extended.

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I found I was able to 'jack' the head up and down using blocking and the quill. of course I to clamp the head where ever I wanted it, but it worked fine. I find now I can crank the head up and down with my fore arm and elbow, not using my shoulder an back as I had been. There was that much friction between the cast iron carrier and the shaft.
 
Made the bottom punch for my 45 cal swage set up. This punch ejects the bullet on the up stroke, when the ram comes back down. Just waiting on some barrel laps to arrive so I can polish the core swage die to final diameter with a mirror finish. Then I can polish the punches to .001" under the inside diameter of the die. image.jpg
 
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I noticed a few weeks ago that I had 3 drop cords laying on my shop floor (80 by 35 arch building) that I was stepping/tripping on all day long. Also about that same time there was a set of three Appleton 20 amp, 50 feet capacity cord reels coming up for bids on a local tool auction. I was fortunate to acquire them for a bit less than 50 bucks. I know they aint much to look at, as they have been in a screen printing shop and did not clean up well, but they will still be here and in good mechanics when my grandkids die of old age. Unfortunately they do not "lock" in place when they are extended any length and that is the reason for the big "E"s on each.

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