2014 POTD Thread Archive

started a new project; a billet aluminum soap dish sized to fit a bar of LAVA, it's snowing, and i didn't have anything to do, and this nice scrap of aluminum has been hanging around for years, i'm sure you understand.
 
started a new project; a billet aluminum soap dish sized to fit a bar of LAVA, it's snowing, and i didn't have anything to do, and this nice scrap of aluminum has been hanging around for years, i'm sure you understand.

Y'know, I'd like to see the one you made. I've got the same problem. I like Lava bar soap, but the soap dish just accumulates lots of water in the bottom which doesn't evaporate and then the bar gets mushy.
 
I would be interested in your parts list and any info you may have looks like just what I need
for mine
 
G'day All
I have finally gotten around to using my lathe for the first time in over 5 years. Long story involving an ex wife and near bankruptcy because of said ex wife.
Anyway I've moved all the gear I managed to keep three times in the last five years. I remarried almost two years ago and my new wife and I have been spending a lot of time renovating the old house we have. Every now and then I have been able to fit in a little time in the shed, slowly getting it organised.
During one of the moves about three years ago I very cleverly managed to let my drill press get away whilst unloading it from the truck. When it finally came to rest on the floor, the only damage to it was some paint scraped off and the handles broken off the quill feed.
Its taken me three years to get to repairing them. When I refurbished the machine about 20 years ago I made new handles for it.The only material I had at the time were some shafts from old car shocks. Unfortunately, at the time, I only had enough chrome plated shaft to make 2 handles so the 3rd one is unplated.
My lathe has been covered up for quite a few months and when I uncovered it the other night I discovered I hadn't oiled it up as much as I thought I had. Hence the small bits of surface rust you can see in a couple of pics. (since removed).
So I just removed the knobs from the broken shafts, chucked each one up in the 3 jaw, machined the end down to 8mm dia X 12 mm long and rethreaded using an 8 X 1.25mm button die. Pretty simple job - except I had forgotten that the shafts were case hardened. Started off with HSS which the shaft laughed at. So I had to use a carbide to gnaw it down to size. I normally dont use carbide in this little machine as it just doesn't have the power or speed to use carbide well.
For those just starting out into machining, I used a split button die in a holder (stock) and used the end of the tailstock ram to hold the die square to the end of the shaft. I turned the tool post so that the edge of it (actually in this case it was a bit of packing under a tool) was parallel to the machine spindle axis, wound it out to a point where the end of the stock handle could rest on ledge. Released the belt tensioning lever on the spindle and turned the spindle by hand using the chuck key. ( I also ensured that I had tured the power off at the wall before doing this). You just have to keep a little bit of pressure on the tailstock ram until the first couple of threads have been started.
Once all three were done just put it back together. All three are now about 12 mm shorter than they were but its not noticable.
I hope this info is of help to someone.
regards
bollie7

drill 01.jpg stock01.jpg stock 02.jpg thread.jpg drill 02.jpg
 
Nice fix on those handles.

I have a drill press that needs the same repair that is on my list of things to do, someday I'll find the time to get it done.
 
I just put in an 8' 4 bulb T5 fixture as well, but the head of the mill creates shadows that I wanted to eliminate. My low light vision is very poor as I age, so I fight back with lots of light.
Did you use the regular fixture or the model with the shield ? I'm getting close to light fixture installation time and don't know what type to use?
How I spent Thanksgiving eve .
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I have had a number of requests for more information on the items I used for my project. Here is a list of the items I purchased online (I have no connection to any of these retailers, I am not endorsing them, I simply found the item I needed at each one):

DC 12V 2A 24W Regulated Switching Power Supply For LED 3528 5050 Light Strip


http://www.ebay.com/itm/111405505484?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

$6.99


US 1X 90mm HID White 105 COB LED 12-24V Angel Eyes Halo Ring Fog Housing Lamp



http://www.ebay.com/itm/261592438458?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
$13.99


12V 16mm Power Symbol Angel Eye LED Metal Push Button Switch Control ON/OFF



http://www.ebay.com/itm/16132777164...49&var=460355687564&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
$5.99
[h=1]LE Lampux 12V Flexible LED Strip Lights, Daylight White, 150 Units 5050 LEDs, Non-waterproof, Light Strips, Pack of 5M[/h]


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQV6Q9I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


$9.99


[h=3][/h][h=3]http://www.mcmaster.com/#8585k13/=us0m1w[/h][h=3]mpact-Resistant Polycarbonate Round Tube[/h]
[h=3]3/4" OD, 5/8" ID, Clear[/h]
2793E35D-E151-4CBA-81D7-0A4309BB3B9A







Each



$2.06 per ft.
8585K13


You ordered 3 each of 1 ft. on 10/26/14.






At only half the weight of glass, this material maintains excellent clarity and impact strength over a wide temperature range. It's comparable to Lexan, Hyzod,Tuffak, and Makrolon. Use it for windows, instrument gauge covers, machine guards, and signs.
View detailed performance properties for plastics.
OD and ID tolerances are ±0.050". Tubes meet UL 94HB for flame retardance and are made of FDA-compliant resins.

I purchased the project box at Fry's Electronics, white plastic caps at Ace Hardware.




I have very poor low light vision, so I decided to add some lighting to my mill. I used a 90mm angel eye LED ring and some LED strip lights. I mounted an aluminum enclosure to hold the transformer for the light and mounted a push button switch. I fed the transformer off of the 120 volt supply on the mill. I ran all the wires inside the head of the mill to keep things looking clean. I plan to add one more strip light to the left side. I still need to paint the enclosure to match the rest of the machine. I made the fixture for the strip lights out of acrylic tubing some plastic end caps and some scraps of aluminum.


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The amount of light is great. I can actually see what if going on as I am working. The LED lights run with no heat wich is great here in Phoenix. PM me if anyone wants specifics about the materials I used. The whole project cost under $30, and I still have 8 feet of LED strip lights
 
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Today I finished all the Prototype Dron (UVA) Molds, It was a lot of fun. I tried to load a video of the Lower Cowling mold being manufactured in 5 axes, but the site says is an invalid file. I know how you guys love when I publish all those axes moving together, I will upload it in youtube later and publish the link here. Happy Thanksgiving.
 
Got no clue what Brav 65 talkin about , but, I go into the shop surprise my kid installed over the mill some skinney bulb. I tell you that one bulb lights the shop
just wicked, so I think thats whats Brav's talking about. Kid said 25 bucks home depot . We have mabe 20 double flouresents (16 feet) up all look like 10 watt
candles! This one stripp rules unreal I'm thinking I only need oh maybe 7-8 more get rid of 20 flickering dull junks : Update Also gone the outside "beehive type
mercury lights" He bought these small squaire I think LEDs unreal dont use power lites up the whole place up like Fenway park.
good kid tomorrow he's buy ole man a new bullet 200,000 heater its a big shop and a bear to heat. Why I bought new one 2 yrs old today its done-Damm them printed
circut boards..............................................
samuel
 
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