2013 POTD Thread Archive


He looked at the rest of the flickr pictures for this project.

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100_8551 by churchjw, on Flickr

The threads were for a steampunk style set of safety glasses. These are actually my safety glasses for working with lasers. I have a set of lenses for the different lasers and all of the vent ports are blocked with brass and sealed on the inside with black epoxy. Just tonight I finished the same lens covers in bronze for my cutting goggles.

Jeff

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An mini Baseball bat to test my ability to do small diameters.
View attachment 55489


This is incredible can you post some pictures of your setup?

Jeff
 
I made another rifle quick down screw, this time for a Marlin 780. I decided to make it in 2 peices and to try and get the fit between the 2 as tight as possible. I started out with a 5/8" by 2.5" grade 5 bolt.

P6150033_zps4959c9eb.jpg

P6150032_zps08ef03a7.jpg

I machined the flats off to a diameter of .900" and faced it off flat.

P6150035_zpse65e4ee9.jpg

Then I center drilled it so I could use a live center while I knurled the head.

P6150037_zps6173db92.jpg

I drilled and tapped it to 5/16" 24 tpi to fit the rifle then counter sunk the hole to a depth of .200" with a 15/32" drill bit which gave me a hole diamter of .4670". I used and old 5/16" fine thread bolt from my collection and turned off the flats to a diameter of .4761" for a .0001" interferance fit.

P6180064_zpsd4ca9b9f.jpg

P6180066_zps791cbbbb.jpg

P6180070_zps3518cd1e.jpg

I threaded the 5/16" bolt into the handle head and prepared it with red loctite. I heated the head up with my heat gun to about 500 degrees then quickly threaded the bolt in until it stopped at the bottom of the countersink.

P6180073_zps50350664.jpg

The I chucked it back up in the lathe and faced it off and put a non-directional finish on with a 3M buffing pad.

P6180074_zps4726e370.jpg

P6180077_zps7fc0a865.jpg

P6200083_zpsf032324f.jpg

P6200084_zpsdd74e421.jpg

It turned out pretty good but you can still see the parting line between the 2 pieces.

P6150033_zps4959c9eb.jpg

P6150032_zps08ef03a7.jpg

P6150035_zpse65e4ee9.jpg

P6150037_zps6173db92.jpg

P6180064_zpsd4ca9b9f.jpg

P6180066_zps791cbbbb.jpg

P6180070_zps3518cd1e.jpg

P6180073_zps50350664.jpg

P6180074_zps4726e370.jpg

P6180077_zps7fc0a865.jpg

P6200083_zpsf032324f.jpg

P6200084_zpsdd74e421.jpg
 
I made another rifle quick down screw, this time for a Marlin 780. I decided to make it in 2 peices and to try and get the fit between the 2 as tight as possible. I started out with a 5/8" by 2.5" grade 5 bolt.

P6150033_zps4959c9eb.jpg

P6150032_zps08ef03a7.jpg

I machined the flats off to a diameter of .900" and faced it off flat.

P6150035_zpse65e4ee9.jpg

Then I center drilled it so I could use a live center while I knurled the head.

P6150037_zps6173db92.jpg

I drilled and tapped it to 5/16" 24 tpi to fit the rifle then counter sunk the hole to a depth of .200" with a 15/32" drill bit which gave me a hole diamter of .4670". I used and old 5/16" fine thread bolt from my collection and turned off the flats to a diameter of .4761" for a .0001" interferance fit.

P6180064_zpsd4ca9b9f.jpg

P6180066_zps791cbbbb.jpg

P6180070_zps3518cd1e.jpg

I threaded the 5/16" bolt into the handle head and prepared it with red loctite. I heated the head up with my heat gun to about 500 degrees then quickly threaded the bolt in until it stopped at the bottom of the countersink.

P6180073_zps50350664.jpg

The I chucked it back up in the lathe and faced it off and put a non-directional finish on with a 3M buffing pad.

P6180074_zps4726e370.jpg

P6180077_zps7fc0a865.jpg

P6200083_zpsf032324f.jpg

P6200084_zpsdd74e421.jpg

It turned out pretty good but you can still see the parting line between the 2 pieces.
The part came out great but I'm just wondering why you didn't just make it from one piece of bar stock.

P6150033_zps4959c9eb.jpg

P6150032_zps08ef03a7.jpg

P6150035_zpse65e4ee9.jpg

P6150037_zps6173db92.jpg

P6180064_zpsd4ca9b9f.jpg

P6180066_zps791cbbbb.jpg

P6180070_zps3518cd1e.jpg

P6180073_zps50350664.jpg

P6180074_zps4726e370.jpg

P6180077_zps7fc0a865.jpg

P6200083_zpsf032324f.jpg

P6200084_zpsdd74e421.jpg
 
Jeff

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This is incredible can you post some pictures of your setup?

Jeff[/QUOTE]

Nothing special.
The rod was taken from an old printer. It's magnetic stainless steel
I turned it between chuck and live center. The smalest diameter is 2mm(0,08") Turned this nearest the chuck at last.
Largest diameter is 5mm (0,2")
Used high RPM and fine cuts.
The Lathe is an chinese 9x BV20 model. Not common in US but very capable.
The idea behind this is to check my ability. I have plans to made one very small CO2 engine.
 
The part came out great but I'm just wondering why you didn't just make it from one piece of bar stock.


I have a bunch of bolt hardware that was free and I'll never use for anything else. I didn't want to go out and buy material whe I have free stuff to use.:)) Plus I wanted to see if I could fit the 2 parts together with no visible seam.
 
I have a bunch of bolt hardware that was free and I'll never use for anything else. I didn't want to go out and buy material whe I have free stuff to use.:)) Plus I wanted to see if I could fit the 2 parts together with no visible seam.
Ah, I had a feeling that it was a bit of an adventure. I know it takes a lot more skill and patience to do it the way you did it. Again, great job.
Ed P
 
I repaired a base lock on an old Vise. The lock plate on the bottom was to weak and bent. so I made a new one from 3/8. the 3/16 plate that bent also stripped the threads on bolts that lock the plate so I remade them also.


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since i hardly use compound axis i made a solid plate for the quick tool holder..no chatter with this baby..I mostly turn the tool as needed...if I need a taper or something I'll just throw the compound back on..

going to install a dro as soon as the mail gets here ;-)

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edit mail arrived ;-)

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photo-46.JPG photo-47.JPG photo-48.JPG photo-50.jpg photo-51.JPG
 
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Decided to rework my speed controller as I finally get the PWM in the mail today. Gutted the relays out of the unit and put everything on a PC board. Put it through all the checks and it works great, just have to give it a final test on the mill when I get a free day

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