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14x40 lathe power feed improvement
- Thread starter petertha
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- Apr 28, 2014
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If you can post some picts of the lathe I'd appreciate it.
I have a feeling looking through your other posts that it might be a close relative of my CT1440G.
You picts & dwgs above really helped me understand the operation of clutch.
Now that I'm finally using the lathe regularly, tiny oddities are cropping up and I've got this uneasy
feeling after reading your posts that I might be face with a preventative maintenance teardown.
Going to start watching Keith's series, thanks for noting that.
I have a feeling looking through your other posts that it might be a close relative of my CT1440G.
You picts & dwgs above really helped me understand the operation of clutch.
Now that I'm finally using the lathe regularly, tiny oddities are cropping up and I've got this uneasy
feeling after reading your posts that I might be face with a preventative maintenance teardown.
Going to start watching Keith's series, thanks for noting that.
Its a King model CT-1440G, built 1997-04. King still exists in eastern Canada (they were quite unresponsive attempting to source me parts). Mine was bought through a local distributer at that time, Modern Tool here in Calgary. Their main business is big boy industrial machines, but they carried this model for some time. My buddy from Edmonton has a 14x40, same CT1440G designation, different name. We compared parts manuals & they are identical. I guess that was the era where lathes & mills were available under different paint schemes & stickers but from same (Taiwan at that time) factory. I've heard that that particular factory no longer exists, but Modern was able to scrounge a few remaining parts.
Thanks Dabbler. I haven't forgotten about shop tour. I had to get this monkey off my back & now Xmas...yadayada. Lets make it happen in the new year!
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- Apr 28, 2014
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yep, yep, they're twins looks like. Thanks.
Going to start digging through your posts.
Going to start digging through your posts.
I should mention some details about the bushing blocks. The main reason for the notches where the cap screws enter is so that you can get in there with a hex wrench. Once the apron is assembled, its a very tight & awkward space to tighten the bolts I used an allen key with slightly shortened foot. You cant really get a wrench up in there.
Once the shimming was all worked out & final assembly time, the blocks were attached just lightly bolted in position. The PF rod was threaded through, apron moved far left to headstock end so it would see the maximum influence of the clutch cup for rod positioning and not apply any bending to the rod itself. Now I snugged the RHS bolts. Move the carriage right just enough & repeat for LHS bolts. If everything is centered proper, it should be frictionless rod rotation with carriage at any position on lathe just turning by hand. Assuming you have a 'Fenner straight' rod
The 2 blocks vs. C gives a bit more control over an integrated C casting relative to bolt pattern which you have to live by
Once the shimming was all worked out & final assembly time, the blocks were attached just lightly bolted in position. The PF rod was threaded through, apron moved far left to headstock end so it would see the maximum influence of the clutch cup for rod positioning and not apply any bending to the rod itself. Now I snugged the RHS bolts. Move the carriage right just enough & repeat for LHS bolts. If everything is centered proper, it should be frictionless rod rotation with carriage at any position on lathe just turning by hand. Assuming you have a 'Fenner straight' rod
The 2 blocks vs. C gives a bit more control over an integrated C casting relative to bolt pattern which you have to live by
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- Apr 28, 2014
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And, the Manual you passed on to me a couple of years ago has come in so incredibly handy!
I still haven't got the 'Klunk' in Low Gear fixed. -hehe
I wish those threads of ours hadn't been lost in the conversion. A lot of really good information in them.
I'm dreading if my PF goes out...
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- Feb 17, 2013
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I didn't know that happened Dan. All the pictures I posted before spring 2017 disappeared when Photobucket tired to blackmail their customers and I switched photo hosting to Smugmug. All the projects I posted before that were gutted of all the pics. If you need pics of anything I'd be happy to re-post them.
Something I forgot to do but worth considering if the apron is dismantled again. My apron gears are greased as opposed to sealed oil bath like newer lathes. So its basically an exposed open hole on the bottom. Although its positioned closer to the operator away from where swarf builds up under the lathe bed, I did find some cutting chips up in there when I cleaned out factory mung grease. This new grease runs very smooth but I feel its also softer & stickier so might cling & hold chips. Anyway, I made a simple cover template but forgot to tap some holes while it was off. This kind of idea might be applicable with a bead of sealer & oil bath if you went that route.
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