1/4 of the way to a mill

Thanks @mickri, I'm assuming you have a DRO on your machine?
 
I have an RF31 clone. So far I have not had to move the head to change tooling. Probably just lucky. But I also go through all of the tooling I intend to use and make a dry run changing out the tooling. Then set the head so I don't have to move it. I set my mill/drill up with an ER32 to R8 adapter. It doesn't take up much room and I have found that ER32 collets have a lot of what I call wiggle room when things are tight and I need to change tooling.

I looked into all kinds of modifications to deal with the alignment issue. During that search I ran across a very simple solution. If I can find the video again I will post it. The solution used a magnetic base with a rod and a dial indicator. Before moving the head the rod is placed against the quill and the dial indicator is set to zero. Move the head and change your tooling. Bring the head back to just touching the rod until the DI reads zero.

View attachment 312484

If you can find a small square column mill or knee mill within your budget go for it. Otherwise get a round column mill/drill. The mill/drill will most likely suit your needs for a long time.
Is this the video?
 
David,
Good luck. I started looking for a drill press and ended up with an Enco 8x35, so I know how these things can go. That being said I love the 8x35--small enough to be mobile, but stout enough to do nice work.

Before I found the 8x35 locally, I'd narrowed it down to PM's machines, either the 833T or their 835. At the end of the day, the 835 doesn't take up much more space than a decent sized bench mill.

Evan
 
I do not have a DRO and so far have not felt the need to get one. I keep track of things by making notes of the position of the quill and then figure out how far I need to move the table. On my mill/drill one full turn of both the X and Y handles is 0.125." That gets confusing if I don't keep track of things. Kind of old school you might say. Works for me.

The above video is not the one I remember watching. Has the same info on bringing the head back into alignment. Did you notice how far beneath the quill his chuck was? He lost a good 3 inches with that chuck. One of the reasons I went with the ER32 was how close it was to the quill.
 
There are knee mills of roughly the footprint of the two you linked to. Old American mills you have the Clausing 8520 / 8530 (and Johansen mills which the Clausing was based on), Rockwell 21-100 and midway between these and a Bridgeport are the Millrite mills. There are quite a few others in this size but very small numbers and I can't keep track of them.

With older imports there were quite a few made in Taiwan and China in the 80s and 90s of similar size under a slew of brand names. Some like Evan's Enco look liked scaled down Bridgeports, others are close copies of the Clausing and Rockwell mills.

There are several current import small knee mills sold by Grizzly and others, so I'm sure one of the Canadian importers probably has something similar. They are much larger than a mini-mill but much smaller than they look in photos.

Harbor Freight 6x26

Grizzly 6x26

Grizzly 8x30

Grizzly a different 8x30


In regards to space, unlike a lathe which is pretty well self contained within its footprint with most controls at the front, you need to leave some working room around a mill to allow for table travel and ability to get at things like belts, head adjustment and hand wheels.

Taking my Clausing as an example, it is a 6x24" mill, which is pretty small for a knee mill. With a 24" table you would think you just need a space just a little more than 2 feet wide for it, but in actually it needs about 4 feet, 16" for travel side to side (8" to either side) plus enough room to operate the hand wheels at each end. It also needs about 4 feet front to back as well to account for the depth of the machine and to allow the head to be adjusted in and out.

Actual floor space required is only about 18x24 inches though, most of the extra room being at the table height and higher so you can have some stuff around the base. I have shelving behind my mill for metal storage because there is a lot of space behind the mill below the level of the head.

I don't have much room, so I actually have to move the table to one side or the other to access the sides or back of the mill, but this is also a consideration. The table moves, so you can get creative in placement to use your space with maximum efficiency.


A bench mill will be both similar and different from a knee mill in space needs. Being bench mounted you have more control over height, and of course you can have all kinds of storage below the mill.

Height is a space issue I think many overlook. An 8 foot ceiling will work for most but with heights of 7-8 feet for many Bridgeport styled mills, anything less than 8 feet (as you may find in a basement shop) can result in a severe restriction of options.
 
I have a Used.com alert setup for "Mill" and tonight this showed up:
Craftex CX603 Knee Mill
This is the retail ad

Gives you a flavour of my market <eyeroll/>
 
I have a Used.com alert setup for "Mill" and tonight this showed up:
Craftex CX603 Knee Mill
This is the retail ad

Gives you a flavour of my market <eyeroll/>

That is a pretty sparse ad and not much savings for being used (about 20% off).

It could still be worthwhile. It doesn't look like these come with any tooling new, so if the used mill just comes with a vise, set of collets and some misc end mills then the used price looks a lot better. The bare minimum someone would have had to buy to run it.
A decent 4-6" milling vise alone can easily run $300+ (US$ to early in the morning for me to convert currency :) ).

If it really comes with nothing, then I guess you are just getting the scratch and dent price. I wonder if this could be a retailer selling a floor display or something.
 
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