1/4 of the way to a mill

Wow, I don't think that was there the last time I looked at their site. Nice machine!
 
I’m with Ttabbal, I feel like those of you who think a Bridgeport class won’t fit should take another look, maybe get rid of lesser equipment or space consumers. Maybe some of the kids, whatever. Reading the threads, it seems dissatisfaction will set in sooner or later.
 
I have an RF31 clone. So far I have not had to move the head to change tooling. Probably just lucky. But I also go through all of the tooling I intend to use and make a dry run changing out the tooling. Then set the head so I don't have to move it. I set my mill/drill up with an ER32 to R8 adapter. It doesn't take up much room and I have found that ER32 collets have a lot of what I call wiggle room when things are tight and I need to change tooling.

I looked into all kinds of modifications to deal with the alignment issue. During that search I ran across a very simple solution. If I can find the video again I will post it. The solution used a magnetic base with a rod and a dial indicator. Before moving the head the rod is placed against the quill and the dial indicator is set to zero. Move the head and change your tooling. Bring the head back to just touching the rod until the DI reads zero.

IMG_3818.JPG

If you can find a small square column mill or knee mill within your budget go for it. Otherwise get a round column mill/drill. The mill/drill will most likely suit your needs for a long time.
 
Winegrower said:
I’m with Ttabbal, I feel like those of you who think a Bridgeport class won’t fit should take another look, maybe get rid of lesser equipment or space consumers. Maybe some of the kids, whatever. Reading the threads, it seems dissatisfaction will set in sooner or later.
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It is the foot of mill sticking up through the middle of the kitchen floor where I run into problems with a Bridgeport. :grin:
 
mickri said:
I have an RF31 clone. So far I have not had to move the head to change tooling. Probably just lucky. But I also go through all of the tooling I intend to use and make a dry run changing out the tooling. Then set the head so I don't have to move it. I set my mill/drill up with an ER32 to R8 adapter. It doesn't take up much room and I have found that ER32 collets have a lot of what I call wiggle room when things are tight and I need to change tooling.

I looked into all kinds of modifications to deal with the alignment issue. During that search I ran across a very simple solution. If I can find the video again I will post it. The solution used a magnetic base with a rod and a dial indicator. Before moving the head the rod is placed against the quill and the dial indicator is set to zero. Move the head and change your tooling. Bring the head back to just touching the rod until the DI reads zero.

View attachment 312484

If you can find a small square column mill or knee mill within your budget go for it. Otherwise get a round column mill/drill. The mill/drill will most likely suit your needs for a long time.
Click to expand...
Well that seems simple enough!
Keeping in mind that I'm so new to milling that I only recently learned to spell "mill" :)
Is realignment only necessary when a tooling change (or something) requires the head to be swung away and brought back to the same location for the next op on the same piece?
It's not necessary if I were to mill a keyway today and then tomorrow facemill some stock.
 
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If you can do used, keep an eye out for a Burke/Powermatic Millrite. They are a little tougher to find but are about 2/3 the size of a Bridgeport. It ends up being much better space wise without giving up on too much of the rigidity/capabilities of a bridgeport.
 
Another great thread to follow Dave .:applause:Good luck on your search ! :encourage:
 
Hey David I picked up a used Taiwanese Rf-30 300.00 with tooling vice ect. I have no room so I had to get a mill drill. They are way more capable than you would think. They are heavy and take decent cuts gunsmith s use them all the time. We are hobby machinists and most jobs can be done on them. Resell is good on them if you out grow it and find the room for a knee mill.
 
One of the benefits of the RF31 over a RF30 is the longer vertical travel on the quill. The table is also bigger with longer travel. Most people find a 4" vise to be the right size for a mill/drill. Rotary tables from 6" to 8" are a good fit too.

If your vise comes with a swivel base like mine did make a backing plate that fits on the swivel base that will take the chucks from the lathe. That is what I did. I call it a rotary positioner. You can see mine in the photo I posted above. I have my vise setup on one side of the table and the rotary positioner on the other. I spent a fair amount of time centering it under the quill. Then placed a sticky with the X & Y coordinates on the head so I can quickly bring it to center. So far my milling projects have been fairly small. I have not needed to move either the vise or the rotary positioner. One word of caution. Because the chucks screw onto the rotary positioner you have to be careful to make your cuts so that the cutting forces tend to tighten the chuck to the base. Otherwise you could unscrew the chuck from the base. One other thing. The top of the rotary positioner is slightly lower than the bottom of the vise and with a chuck on it the chuck is higher than the top of the vise. No interference issues.
 
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