0% lower

Nice work Drew, looking good!!

Update on those awaiting RGuns shipments... don't bother them, they'll eventually ship... lol

I got a shipment notification yesterday from them (UPS tracking) that there are two packages on the way. I ordered 3 items (paperweight, upper assy and lower parts kit) from them on 12/20, though not sure what is shipping yet... should know by Tuesday tho... ;)

What was your order date?
Thanks.
 
What was your order date?
Thanks.

I placed three orders, two on the 19th of Dec and one on the 20th. Have gotten nothing yet as far as notifications from RGuns, but I am subscribed to UPS, so they notify me when something is shipping to me. I'm not sure what it coming, but I'll know in a couple days when it arrives... LOL

Oh and Drew, I did put the vent hold and front trigger guard pin hole in, nope, didn't spot face it.. :doh: , they just don't really show in that pic from the angle and flash..
 
That is some nice work, one day I will get around to machining my 0% lower and upper I have. Until then they will remain in a unmarked box in the corner of the closet.
 
I got busy and did most (ran out of time and will need to revisit the setup to finish off the pistol grip) of the buffer end using Ray's instructions.

I was so excited to be making lower cuts that I didn't cross-check all of Ray's instructions with the blue prints. Ray makes the anti-rotation hole .225" deep in the text although his drawings and the M16 print show .200 (+/- .005).

Oops. I think it's far enough from the buffer retainer hole.

It took a while getting to actually cutting my lower.

I started made the drill guide for the bolt release (Ray's plans have the axis flipped so it' rest against the receiver side instead of perpindicular to it. The hole is also a little high at .188" as opposed to the center of the .190 +/- .003" tolerance).

I then contemplated the 90 degree counter sink at 1.22 +/- .005 diameter where Ray suggests using your fly cutter which was outside my experience as a wood guy. I read the Machinery's Handbook entry on single edge cutting tools, got a handle on relief angles, ground something which looked serviceable, and took off any burrs on a wet stone. It got a little hot in one corner but turned out OK otherwise.

12_cutter_top.jpg
13_cutter_side.jpg

I never used a boring head before and decided that playing with it in scrap would be a fine idea. I also tried out my monster tap.

14_holes.jpg

Finally I broke out my angle plate and got to work. A piece of drill rod through the pivot pin holes across 1-2-3 blocks was a great start to a vertical lower which took the smallest tweak to indicate flat across the buttstock face.

15_buffer_setup.jpg

My #3 center-drill, 1/4 drill, 1/2 drill, and 3/4" end-mill all preceded the boring head. I bored .025" radius/.050" diameter per pass because the receiver on the angle plate wasn't was solid as 1/2" scrap in a vice which liked twice that and finished with .010/.020" then .0025"/.005". I didn't forget about the chamfer which had me grinding tools.

16_buffer_3_4.jpg17_buffer_end.jpg18_buffer_end_side.jpg

I was very satisfied getting to a point where I can actually attach parts

19_buffer_tube_installed.jpg

12_cutter_top.jpg 13_cutter_side.jpg 14_holes.jpg 15_buffer_setup.jpg 16_buffer_3_4.jpg 17_buffer_end.jpg 18_buffer_end_side.jpg 19_buffer_tube_installed.jpg
 
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I played with the mill a little more early this week and finished the front and back ends. I posted. My post vanished. Fortunately I saved all my text for some reason.

Ray goes too deep on the cut for the front upper lug (.385" from the top of the pivot pin, or .260" from its center; spec from the M16 print is .250 +/- .005". That dimension is one missing from D Snider's drawing).

I went a little deeper - OOPS. A 9/64" drill is loose between .250" drill rod and receiver front, 5/32" thankfully does not fit. I'm guessing I had issues with how my end-mill flutes were lining up with the pivot pin (didn't hit top-dead center and/or got part of the recessed center on the mill).

This is not good - the magazine well front inside surface is .350 +/- .005" (tolerance missing on the Snider drawing, and it's not the default +/- .015") from the take-down pin center and has the rivet clearance arc .047 +/- .005" forwards from that line.

IOW, at the center of the tolerance Ray is down to .043" of wall thickness versus .053" at the middle of spec.

I'm thinner than .037 but thicker than .021 which does not make me happy. I'll definitely move the 5/16" hole at the front of the magazine well to the aft end of its tolerance and do the same with the magazine well once I sanity check the magazine release location.

On the next one I'll zero Z once exposing the pin top and then sneak up on it stopping if a 1/8" drill fits between .250" drill rod in the pivot pin hole and receiver front. That should nominally be once the forging seam is gone and at most .015" below the receiver front (the M16 print has the receiver cheek X and front Y planes meet .250 +/- .015" aft of the pivot pin center AC).

I only made the front pistol grip cut with the receiver vertical since I find it easiest to match existing surfaces in the Z direction - just touch the surface on the final pass. If I had more patience I would have waited until drilling the safety hole to do the rear; although I couldn't resist the temptation to use the vise for a couple minutes before removing it to mount the angle plate.

22_pg_front_paper.jpg

Note the plastic shavings from the pistol grip - the corners are sharp. Not shown is the blood from cutting my finger when I slipped putting the tight pistol grip on - in the future I'll debur before fitting parts.

24_pistol_grip.jpg

It's starting to look like a gun

25_stock_and_pg.jpg

A longer test indicator might come in handy - I had to settle for indicating the top few inches vertical because the quill would have run into the pivot pin bosses. A taller angle plate would have allowed me to clamp higher for a better guarantee on keeping the forging vertical. Assuming the clamping pad wasn't bending the passenger's side cheek was a few thousandths closer on the Y axis so I edge found the driver's side to more accurately center the front lug cut.

26_pivot_setup.jpg

Center drills don't run straight in my chuck but work great in collets. When drilling to the full depth a few pieces of swarf fell down the channel formed by detent spring housing and clamping pad; I thought some how my drill wandered and I went through the side.

27_center_drill_detent.jpg

Front done. I took the opportunity to mill off the forging seam so I'll have less filing later. Ray's looks too deep because it is. Mine looks deeper because it's worse. I'll probably drill my 5/16" hole tonight and have my moment of truth which confirms or refutes (ouch) my calculations regarding magazine well proximity.

28_front_lug.jpg

and nicely centered - I got that part right

29_front_passenger.jpg
30_front_driver.jpg

26_pivot_setup.jpg 27_center_drill_detent.jpg 28_front_lug.jpg 29_front_passenger.jpg 30_front_driver.jpg 22_pg_front_paper.jpg 24_pistol_grip.jpg 25_stock_and_pg.jpg
 
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I spent two hours in the shop last night and took care of some details. I can now install a buffer, screw my pistol grip in place, and clear a charging handle.

I'm getting really attached to angle blocks. Slip one beneath a part with the vertical face against a convenient parallel surface, tap in place with the brass face of the mill wrench/hammer, finish tightening clamps.

I didn't have a 6 degree block, but 2 and 4 degree blocks stacked nicely for the buffer retainer hole. For the pistol grip surface I skewed the passenger side clamping pad a bit and put the angle block against its flat surface exposed below the top deck in the fire control pocket area.

I used the correct F (.257") drill which is in-spec (.255" + .006") on the buffer retainer hole not the 1/4" Ray used which didn't clear his retainer. My long #3 center drill did come in handy for spotting the hole overlapping threads.

33_buffer_retainer_setup.jpg

I probably should have used my own counter sink instead of one lying around the shop. While serviceable it's not a very nice finish. Prior to playing with my pistol grip I also applied my deburring tool so I didn't cut myself again.

32_pg_finished.jpg

The screw hole is in the right place

36_pg_screwed.jpg

A buffer installs nicely

35_buffer_installed.jpg

and I didn't forget about my charging handle relief cut

34_charging_cut.jpg

32_pg_finished.jpg 33_buffer_retainer_setup.jpg 34_charging_cut.jpg 35_buffer_installed.jpg 36_pg_screwed.jpg
 
Very nice work so far Drew! I replied to your earlier post too and it seems to be gone.. alas, I didn't save the text.. lol I like the drill rod/angle block trick, that works well.

I had posted that I may opt to get a vise that I can mount on it's side to do some of the vertical work, that way I can just clamp it with the plates... still workin on that one. I haven't gotten any more work done on my 0 other than boring the buffer hole, been too busy with work projects, life and some CNC lowers that we are doing.. Hope to get back to it soon though.
 
Very nice work so far Drew! I replied to your earlier post too and it seems to be gone.. alas, I didn't save the text.. lol I like the drill rod/angle block trick, that works well.

Thanks!

I had posted that I may opt to get a vise that I can mount on it's side to do some of the vertical work, that way I can just clamp it with the plates... still workin on that one.

That would be better.

For the next one I'm contemplating either an angle plate with slots for studs to use with step blocks which would be a lot more tenacious than the Kant-Twist clamps or better fixturing.

"Better fixturing" might be 8" pads like a commercial drill jig which locate the receiver fore/aft via pins in the pivot and take-down pin holes.

Maybe 2" thick for stiffness and to provide a nice wide surface that will sit square standing in a milling vice.

Drilled and tapped to clamp together and to accept some small clamp blocks for work on the side surfaces.
 
I drew a magazine well cross-section and calculated tool paths which I hope to apply this evening. Electronically constructing everything was more work than machining the entire buffer end of the forging. I've attached my Google Sketchup file with dimensioned cuts to save other people the trouble. No warranty - you'll want to compare to the M16 mechanical drawing.

Most of the extra marks and guides show where the walls would be approaching the tightest and loosest in-spec magazine wells.

My motivation in adjusting the magazine well was to get more wall thickness at the rivet clearance cut due to Ray's deep lug cut start and my deeper screw-up. That was entirely straight forward - I got .013" of wall thickness by getting rid of Ray's .003" forward bias, shifting the magazine well to the aft end of its +/- .005" location specification, and moving the rivet clearance radius to the aft end of its +/- .005" tolerance.

02_mag-well-5_16.jpg

While I had Ray's instructions and M16 lower blueprint jpeg (as I noted earlier in the thread it includes things omitted from D Snider's redraw and lacks some tolerance errors) in front of me I made some other comparisons which were out of spec

That is entirely reasonable -

The M16 mechanical drawings are not available via a Freedom Of Information Act inquiry because Colt considers them proprietary. You get them when you win a government contract and sign a non-disclosure agreement with Colt. Even if civilian market AR15 manufacturers were in a legal position to share there's no motivation. That means no canonical source of dimensions and understandable ambiguity on measurements.

but I wanted to do the right thing to avoid magazine fit problems and offending my sense of craftsmanship and did my own calculations + drawings regarding where to remove metal.

I don't currently have a CAD program on my laptop, so I used Google Sketchup with constructive geometry as a digital straight edge + compass. For example if an end-mill needs to touch a point (the apex of the outside corner transitioning between wide magazine rear and slot for its seam) and a line (the inside of that slot) you can put a circle with a matching radius centered on the point, line offset by the radius from the straight edge, and have the necessary center at the intersection. With Sketchup it's easiest to add the locating geometry, add and copy the feature or is control point, undo the locating bits (Sketchup sometimes exploding arcs into their component straight segments when one intersects something can make them hard to remove with the erase tool), and paste what's needed.

The M16 lower blueprint calls for a flat side bulge of .485" +/- .010" long terminating in .030" radii at its fore and aft end ends which would make it .475" wide at the radii ends and .535" at its wide part in the Maximum Material Condition producing the smallest hole and tightest in-spec magazine well.

Ray approximates that bulge with a 1/8" drill bit producing a .0625" radius, with holes centered at X 2.289 and 1.923 from the pivot pin axis. That's .366" (.109" narrower than spec at MMC) at top and .491" (.044" narrower). Presumably this comes from working off a redraw of a redraw - D Snider's omits the .030" radius.

I changed that without going outside the Least Material Condition producing the biggest hole and loosest in-spec magazine well.

08_mag-well-3_8_side.jpg

The aft end of the magazine well is supposed to transition from its wide flat part to the narrow slot for the spot welded magazine rear rib with .062" radii. It'd be a lot of work to do that on a manual mill with no functional advantage so Ray approximates which is sound engineering. However doing the arithmetic on his plunge cuts at X 2.631 Y +/- 0.121 shows they're just knocking off the tip; and the 3/8 cut at X 2.712 between Y+/- 0.066 is leaving metal which should be missing. While probably OK, I made the rear cut .015" wider and moved the plunge cuts to knock off the other side of each corner so none of my approximated outside corners extend past where a "correct" cut would be.

The intersections with the specified .062" radii are visible below, but more so in the double sized drawings and scalable Sketchup file.

09-mag-well-3_8_end.jpg
10-mag-well-3_8_plunge.jpg

The magazine well sides are relieved .0175" +/- .0075" between .31" +/- .010" long pads at each end. Ray makes thin tails which intrude into that area; and while that definitely works for flat sided USGI magazines I adjusted by .020" to meet spec in the unlikely event some one has decided to use that space.

07_mag-well-3_8_wide.jpg

Here are my .0625" radius corners including the relocations necessary for the above geometry:

01_mag-well-1_8.jpg

I calculated the rest of the tool paths needed and have a nice ordered set to reference when milling. Everything "should" match Ray's instructions apart from the second 3/4 roughing pass. My long 3/4 inch end-mill is actually .740" which I took into account for the second roughing pass with it. I left a few thousandths extra so accidentally re-using a .750" end-mill wouldn't touch the finished surfaces, although if I intended to use a 3/4" mill I'd adjust the coordinates.

01_mag-well-1_8.jpg 02_mag-well-5_16.jpg 03_mag-well-1_2.jpg 04_mag-well-3_4_plunge.jpg 05_mag-well-_740_rough.jpg 06_mag-well-3_8_long.jpg 07_mag-well-3_8_wide.jpg 08_mag-well-3_8_side.jpg 09-mag-well-3_8_end.jpg 10-mag-well-3_8_plunge.jpg
 

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