Your favorite machine paint in Canada...

My understanding is that with one part paints a hardener does not change the ultimate paint's hardness. It just allows the paint to achieve this level sooner then without the hardener.

I second the Sherwin Williams suggestion. I just used their alkyd enamel on my SB 9"A refinishing. (With no hardener and in cool fall temps in the garage at that). I found that a slight thinning of the paint helped the brush strokes blend in better. BTW I used nice hair brushes, well worth the small added cost.

As with any finishing step the prep is vital for best long term results. Make sure all oils and other contaminates are cleaned off. An etched surface (either mechanical or phosphate paint prep solution) goes a long way to get best paint adhesion. I also suggest the matching primer.

If care and time are taken a brushed on job can look pretty nice. If done poorly a spray job can be a mess. Andy
 
Andrew R Stewart said:
My understanding is that with one part paints a hardener does not change the ultimate paint's hardness. It just allows the paint to achieve this level sooner then without the hardener.

I second the Sherwin Williams suggestion. I just used their alkyd enamel on my SB 9"A refinishing. (With no hardener and in cool fall temps in the garage at that). I found that a slight thinning of the paint helped the brush strokes blend in better. BTW I used nice hair brushes, well worth the small added cost.

As with any finishing step the prep is vital for best long term results. Make sure all oils and other contaminates are cleaned off. An etched surface (either mechanical or phosphate paint prep solution) goes a long way to get best paint adhesion. I also suggest the matching primer.

If care and time are taken a brushed on job can look pretty nice. If done poorly a spray job can be a mess. Andy
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Thanks. I did end up painting a couple parts today with some Tremclad gloss gray that I bought. they look pretty good. I might end up going the S-W route though and getting a custom color.
 
I did that, custom colors. Shades of gray to say. One tip I decided on for next time is to get a white primer. The S-W counter guy tinted the primer (bought w/ the paint) at no cost, to match the paint. Brushing on the first color layer, gray on matching gray, had me stopping frequently to make sure I wasn't missing spots. White primer would have helped to confirm this. Like my wood working, my painting is a hack job usually:). Andy
 
Andrew R Stewart said:
I did that, custom colors. Shades of gray to say. One tip I decided on for next time is to get a white primer. The S-W counter guy tinted the primer (bought w/ the paint) at no cost, to match the paint. Brushing on the first color layer, gray on matching gray, had me stopping frequently to make sure I wasn't missing spots. White primer would have helped to confirm this. Like my wood working, my painting is a hack job usually:). Andy
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Andrew, what S-W alkyd enamel did you use specifically? Possible to post a picture of the can? I just called my local store here in Canada and was told that oil based "All Purpose Enamel" stopped being sold long time ago (at least here anyway). They only have water based now.
 
Sugarkryptonite said:
"All Purpose Enamel" stopped being sold
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@Sugarkryptonite They say that to all the consumers. :mad:

I has the worst time with several 'brand name' paint stores, until I told them I was a business - a machine shop. They sent me to their 'industrial paints' guy. The one I went with (can gone for a year, sorry) that I liked was the Behr Industrial metal paint - it is a hybrid paint and dries almost as hard as the epoxy paints and urethane paints I used 40 years ago.

Here's what I do: Bring coupons of 1/8 X 2 X 4 hot rolled steel that has had one side prepared, clean, no scale, etc. Ask for them to dip the ones you are interested in, and lay them on a small scrap of plywood. Take that home (yes, while wet) and let the paint cure - for a week. All the the good finishes take a long time to fully cure/harden. THEN do a scratch test, etc. you'll be surprised at the results.

Colour can be figured out once you figure out which paint you like.
 
Dabbler said:
@Sugarkryptonite They say that to all the consumers. :mad:

I has the worst time with several 'brand name' paint stores, until I told them I was a business - a machine shop. They sent me to their 'industrial paints' guy. The one I went with (can gone for a year, sorry) that I liked was the Behr Industrial metal paint - it is a hybrid paint and dries almost as hard as the epoxy paints and urethane paints I used 40 years ago.

Here's what I do: Bring coupons of 1/8 X 2 X 4 hot rolled steel that has had one side prepared, clean, no scale, etc. Ask for them to dip the ones you are interested in, and lay them on a small scrap of plywood. Take that home (yes, while wet) and let the paint cure - for a week. All the the good finishes take a long time to fully cure/harden. THEN do a scratch test, etc. you'll be surprised at the results.

Colour can be figured out once you figure out which paint you like.
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Thanks. Unfortunately here with covid, we're not allowed to even go into the stores. Order by phone only and pickup, so that is out of the question.
 
You can still get a recommendation from their 'industrial paints' guy...
 
Dabbler said:
You can still get a recommendation from their 'industrial paints' guy...
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Yeah, I just don't want to be talked into something that isn't good. Oil based should be the way to go for this, right? No water based? Is a urethane alkyd a water based paint?
 
The one I got was an oil based paint. Restricted sales to industrial use only. I think the newer water based paints have mostly caught up.
 
I agree with Dabbler, the recent water based paints and varnishes that I have used are impressive....
they dry quickly and give a durable finish.
 
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