Yes or no on this milling machine?

[Dabbler]

I paid $300 US for a TECO 2HP VFD and 40$ for the box. $25 for msc wiring and plug. My original motor goes to about 70 RPM with decent torque. The two speed was wired for 1725 RPMs and the belts were set for medium speed.

 

[Cooter Brown]

I cant get my back gear working ether but i still have a bridgeport.... A VFD will cost anywhere from $150 - $350 but you dont need a VFD to run this machine you could a get a static phase converter for $60.... I have 5 machine that run on static phase converters....

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The back gear is engaged by a lovejoy style coupler that moves up and down with the lever on top. It can be rebuilt completely....

 

[projectnut]

Went back and looked at the Induma again today, and it has a 40-42" table. We played around with the back gear, and never could get it to engage. I'm not sure what the issue is, but it doesn't seem like the lever just above the head (beside the brake lever) is really doing anything. You can pivot it from side to side, but I can't tell that it is changing anything.

This may seem like an amazing grasp of the obvious, but are you using the proper lever to engage/disengage the back gear? It's the one on the right side of the head below the label that says Fast Slow. If the head hasn't been moved in a while the grease on the slides has probably hardened to the point it will be difficult to get it to move. Often times I have to set the gear change lever on my Bridgeport to the neutral position and rotate the quill by hand to get the gears to engage properly. Bridgeport recommends greasing the slides once every 6 months. They also recommend using the Fast Slow lever to change head position while lubing the slides.

Also keep in mind when changing from low to high speed the quill will rotate in the opposite direction. With the back gear engaged and the speed switch in the low speed position the quill will rotate clockwise. When the back gear is disengaged the quill will rotate counter clockwise with the switch in the low speed position.

Here's a link to a Bridgeport manual with a similar style head. Section 6.3 shows all the head parts including the back gear and speed change levers. It's possible the linkage on your machine is either disconnected or broken.

http://www.truetex.com/bridgeport-manual.pdf

 

[Jason280]

We tried most of what you suggested, but honestly have no idea if I was doing any of it correctly.

If I did go with a VFD, will it still maintain the same amount of torque potential as using the back gear....say, using larger diameter twist drills?

 

[ThinWoodsman]

I misunderstood the earlier description, thought the mill was stuck *in* backgear. The "not being able to get into backgear" is a very common problem and not difficult to fix. You'll probably have to take the head apart and clean it, but there are a couple of bolts you can monkey with first. Search around for "bridgeport backe gear will not engage" and you'll see a few discussions that will let you know what you're in for.

Pretty sure projectnut covered the mechanism, but just to be clear, there are two states: the lever on top of the spindle (i.e. on the cam around the drawbar) forward and backgear toggle (on the right side of the head) is OUT, the lever on top of the spindle back (pointing right) and backgear toggle is IN.

VFDs are cheap. I went with a phase converter because I had concerns about losing torque at low speeds. If you're going after the best finish possible, you'll want to adjust the speed with far more control than the pulleys will get you, so a VFD would be a good idea. When I priced them it was as Dabbler said, 150 to 300.

 

[kb58]

Others beat me to it, but yeah, a VFD is around $200-300.

 

[Robo_Pi]

Let's say worst case I can't get the rotary converter, and the back gear assembly is damaged beyond repair....how much would it cost to simply convert it over to a VFD?

IMHO, without the rotary converter you've just stepped down from a "Great Deal" to basically buying if for pretty much what it's worth.

Not saying that's a no-go. But the fact that it came with a rotary converter was a large part of what got me all excited about it. A VFD isn't cheap. In fact, personally if there's no rotary converter I would just swap the motor out for a 110/220 volt single phase motor. Assuming I still bought it.

What happened? Was it a misunderstanding? I confess that sounded too good to be true.

Without the rotary phase converter it's "Just another mill". I've seen plenty of mills around that size for that price, so while it's going for what it's worth, IMHO, it's no longer a super deal without the RPC.

But like I say, that sounded too good to be true from the get go.

 

[Dabbler]

So on my mill at 70 RPM I have about 40% of the torque it is on high. If I were to shift the belts ( a normal and easy operation) I'd get about half of that back. No it isn't the monster torque you'll get in back gear, but I'd have no problem drilling a 1.2" hole with a twist drill, or a using a 3" annular cutter. The torque on mine is adequate.

I'm not one to 'push' my machines: I don't have the spare change to replace them.

There is always the option of finding a single phase 2HP flange mount motor to replace it - often they are cheaper than a VFD.

What I'm saying is that if it is a machine that you like, have the space for, and you can afford it - then the rest are fairly solvable issues.

 

[Splat]

Without the p/c I'd talk down the price.

 

[Jason280]

I can still get the mill with the rotary converter, but he's wanting me to buy a large South Bend 16" lathe with 6-7' bed as well. He has both running off the converter, and has decided he doesn't really want to get rid of one without the other.