Yeah, I'm a Stud

[C-Bag]

My experience was with VW cases and studs. It became standard practice to pull the studs and put case savers/threaded inserts in because it was a mess if your fresh rebuild had a head stud pull. I would remove the studs after putting the case in the hot tank. So the combo of heat and solvent along with double nutting with an impact always did the trick. Never had one break. 16 studs a case is really asking for trouble…..dissimilar metal corrosion is horrible dry but seems to give a certain amount of porosity for penetration. Unscrewing it with an impact and not side torquing with say a wrench is important in my mind. YMMV.

 

[pontiac428]

I quit fussing with studs after acquiring this tool. Now it's just another step to pull studs, and not an emergency.

Stud Extractor

Eliminate The Guesswork The ARES Damaged Bolt And Stud Extractor Tool has a universal design that allows you to clamp down on damaged studs from 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch, taking the guess work out of extracting them. This tool has a 3/8-inch drive that can be used with hand ratchets, impact...

www.arestool.com

 

[RaisedByWolves]

I’ve had no problems. Maybe that’s with synthetic ATF?

I had trouble getting it to mix with the atf, there’s a certain type you need to use, but I disremember what type it is.

You can look up “Ed’s Red” for the specifics.

Alum powder and water (you don't need an acid, nor do you want an acid)...
heat the water for a faster action..

in your case you may want to build a damn around it using clay or something.
It won't hurt the Aluminum..
Grocery store will have Alum powder.

Look it up on youtube or do a search.

The article I read and the mix I used had acid in it. The acid lets it work at a lower temp, no unwanted issues with it in there.

 

[akjeff]

Cut the stud off closer to the case, so you're not just twisting a long torsion bar. Weld a nut on the end of the now shorter stud, and let it cool. Then hit it with an impact gun.

 

[RJSakowski]

I've had considerable experience with frozen fasteners in marine engines. The aluminum will oxidize forming aluminum oxide around the stud, bolt and locking it in. Generally, some patience will eventually work but particularly in the case of bolts threaded into the casting, they are too tight to allow any lubricant in to the threads. The worst ones are those holding the water jacket on.

For removing studs, I double nut the stud and use the bottom nut for extracting the stud.

 

[verbotenwhisky]

I quit fussing with steel bolts in aluminum, dissimilar Metal / galvanic corrosion is a tough nut to crack. I have a buddy who does marine out board engine work and brings these things to me, I cut the bolt off .0625 above the block or head, mill them down flush and flat, center up and bore them out with a short 3 or 4 flute end mill of the appropriate size, then thread them large and install a thread insert to accept the required bolt size.

Just my thoughts....

 

[mattthemuppet2]

If you need to drill the stud out by hand, hand grind a center divot in the cut off stud (cut off close to the case) to help get your drill started on center. Then use a small drill (1/8" or less), followed by a drill close to the tap drill size for the stud. Ideally use a LH drill if you have one. You should then be able to pull/ unthread/ retap the hole. It's what I end up doing about half the time I find a stuck bolt or screw.

 

[Bone Head]

A Harley Sportster case. XR, whatever. Easy to screw up, so one of the best tools you have is time. The "Ed's Red" mentioned is good stuff. I would build a wall of sorts around the naughty stud and pour the Ed's Red in. Let it set. Every day or more check it's still covered with the mix and add more as needed.
The idea previously mentioned of cutting the stud off just above the case and welding a nut on to use an impact on is good as that stud will bow as you apply any torque to it by hand or impact. And you don't want to re-use it anyway.
I wouldn't want to snap it off in the case. I've had a big twin case with one snapped off. I'm kind of anal about centering up on broken fasteners, and when I got it ready I still had to hold my tongue right to get the cylinder and head on.
Before you go back together get new headbolts. Probably all of them need replaced.
And yes; I'll shut up now.

 

[markba633csi]

If you have access to a mill, you could use the existing stud to align the case for boring an accurate hole just big enough for
the minor thread diameter. Then the leftover thread pieces would be easy to remove. No damage, no thread insert needed.
You could also indicate off the other stud holes too, if necessary

 

[verbotenwhisky]

If you have access to a mill, you could use the existing stud to align the case for boring an accurate hole just big enough for
the minor thread diameter. Then the leftover thread pieces would be easy to remove. No damage, no thread insert needed.
You could also indicate off the other stud holes, if necessary

The issue I have found is, once galvanic corrosion sets in, even if I get the thing to thread out of the hole, in most cases the corrosion has damaged the threads so their tolerances are screwy at best and less than 50% at worse which isn't good if you are torquing the new stud down for a critical connection. If I use a thread insert, I do not worry about the future because the insert is steel.