Why didn't anyone warn me about mag scales on the DRO?

I would agree with the above statements. The scales on my BP are on the back and also covered by an aluminum shield. The only time I've had an interference was when a magnetic base was hanging over the rear of the table and the reader head passed by. I use magnetic bases for indicators on a regular basis without interference.
 
Oh, I agree mine are overly sensitive, that's the problem.

Can't say why your mag scale is so sensitive, something must be out of whack. Mag scales shouldn't react to a mag holder any appreciable distance away. Think the read head has an issue.

I recall seeing mag tape setups with all sorts of chips being functional. I'd recommend trying a new read head. Can you swap X with Y read heads and see if the behavior is the same? If there's no change then I'd either replace the head or dump everything for glass scales. How long do you want to be without a working DRO? Sometimes you have to be pragmatic just to get stuff done. Else you can stay stuck... Unless you enjoy whacking your head against the wall solving a tough problem! I've been known to do that, far more often than I should have.

I ordered all glass scales with 1 mic resolution and 8+1 lead wires last week, so that should be that. It cost almost $500, but I don't feel like I'm throwing good money after bad by any stretch. I guess I shouldn't run magnetic stuff around magnets, just like how I probably shouldn't run glass optical scales at a laser discotheque (I won't, my shop heavy metal is so evil it doesn't require lights).

Do I want to be without a working DRO? Hard not to belly laugh, but I see DRO as a nice to have, not as a must have. I've only been bothered to install the X and Y scales, and I only turn the DRO on for every other job. Maybe I'm just good at counting, maybe it's the 4" handwheel scales, but in three years with this particular mill and I haven't been bothered by not having digital. I just don't think it's that big of a deal, I've been working with numbers and measurements all my life. To me it's nice to have, not a must, and mostly for the patterning and traverse speed display.

Once the new scales arrive and I get at least the X and Y mounted, I'll report in. I might have to re-do the ribbon cables on the head unit to catch the 422-A harness, but that ain't nuthin' but a thang.
 
Oh, I agree mine are overly sensitive, that's the problem.



I ordered all glass scales with 1 mic resolution and 8+1 lead wires last week, so that should be that. It cost almost $500, but I don't feel like I'm throwing good money after bad by any stretch. I guess I shouldn't run magnetic stuff around magnets, just like how I probably shouldn't run glass optical scales at a laser discotheque (I won't, my shop heavy metal is so evil it doesn't require lights).

Do I want to be without a working DRO? Hard not to belly laugh, but I see DRO as a nice to have, not as a must have. I've only been bothered to install the X and Y scales, and I only turn the DRO on for every other job. Maybe I'm just good at counting, maybe it's the 4" handwheel scales, but in three years with this particular mill and I haven't been bothered by not having digital. I just don't think it's that big of a deal, I've been working with numbers and measurements all my life. To me it's nice to have, not a must, and mostly for the patterning and traverse speed display.

Once the new scales arrive and I get at least the X and Y mounted, I'll report in. I might have to re-do the ribbon cables on the head unit to catch the 422-A harness, but that ain't nuthin' but a thang.
I also see the DRO as more of a convenience than a necessity. My BP has both metric and imperial dials, so there's no problem there. I did add a DRO back in 2012 because I kept getting so many interruptions it was difficult to write down where I was. The phone was ringing off the hook and from time to time I would forget to write down my coordinates. It was a royal PITA to retrace my steps each time that happened.

I expect to need to use the DRO more frequently now that the political phone calls are starting to come in hot and heavy.
 
Oh, I agree mine are overly sensitive, that's the problem.



I ordered all glass scales with 1 mic resolution and 8+1 lead wires last week, so that should be that. It cost almost $500, but I don't feel like I'm throwing good money after bad by any stretch. I guess I shouldn't run magnetic stuff around magnets, just like how I probably shouldn't run glass optical scales at a laser discotheque (I won't, my shop heavy metal is so evil it doesn't require lights).

Do I want to be without a working DRO? Hard not to belly laugh, but I see DRO as a nice to have, not as a must have. I've only been bothered to install the X and Y scales, and I only turn the DRO on for every other job. Maybe I'm just good at counting, maybe it's the 4" handwheel scales, but in three years with this particular mill and I haven't been bothered by not having digital. I just don't think it's that big of a deal, I've been working with numbers and measurements all my life. To me it's nice to have, not a must, and mostly for the patterning and traverse speed display.

Once the new scales arrive and I get at least the X and Y mounted, I'll report in. I might have to re-do the ribbon cables on the head unit to catch the 422-A harness, but that ain't nuthin' but a thang.
I didn't mean to imply that a DRO is essential. Machinists have survived for centuries without one. But they are quite handy. It would seem you agree, since you voted with your cash. They are real easy to get used to.

RS422/RS423 is just an interface. If you have the wires, connector pins and patience, why not have it. Is 422 essential? Not any more than a DRO is. For my small shop, single ended read heads are fine. If your shop is more industrial and multiple machines can be on simultaneously, I'd use the differential RS422. That way you don't have to muck with it later if there's a problem.
 
I didn't mean to imply that a DRO is essential. Machinists have survived for centuries without one. But they are quite handy. It would seem you agree, since you voted with your cash. They are real easy to get used to.

RS422/RS423 is just an interface. If you have the wires, connector pins and patience, why not have it. Is 422 essential? Not any more than a DRO is. For my small shop, single ended read heads are fine. If your shop is more industrial and multiple machines can be on simultaneously, I'd use the differential RS422. That way you don't have to muck with it later if there's a problem.

Exactly. The 422 traces are on the board, no reason not to get the benefit. One box of JST XH 9 pin connectors, coming right up!
 
One question would be if the firmware would support RS422 data stream? Ditron lists their magnetic scales/pinout as RS422, but the pinout from the DRO is TTL. I kind of question the Ditron specifications, like it lists the accuracy of their 1uM scales as +/-0.02mm, vs. their glass scales as ±5um, ±10um/M. So all the resolution of the magnetic scale is pretty worthless if the accuracy is so poor, and that would be doubled if using diameter mode. I did check my magnetic 5uM Electronica scales, and as best as I can measure using a 123 block they pretty much fall into +/-0.0002" accuracy range which is well within the mechanical variable range.
 
I shall bit my tongue. I am kind of down on Ditron at the moment!
 
Hi Guys, @pontiac428

You can send me any magnetic DRO you want to get rid of! They are fine.

All of the sensor technologies have limitations. I worked in the field of sensors for years and even longer in the field of magnetism and magnetic recording. The optical sensors (DRO) do not do well in dirty environments. Neither do the capacitive. Magnetic sensor systems are far more tolerant. I have a magnetic DRO on my lathe. I have never gotten around to putting a DRO on my Mill as it is CNC. On big motors moving large paper webs (news print) where the position must be measured accuratly so that the speed can be carefully controlled (do not break the web) they got rid of the optical sensors as they fail from the paper dust. They were replaced with magnetic sensors (magneto-resistive).

I have never tried this experiment of waving a magnet around my DRO sensor. Of course it could have bad effects if the sensor and stripe are not built correctly or well.

Just as you could scratch the optical scale and it would start to fail, you could demagnetize the magnetic stripe, but is is pretty strong, high coercivity (resistance to change in the magnetic state), and you would essentially have to bring a magnet into contact with the stripe to mess it up (you would have to replace the stripe, which is not hard to to if you can get it). The stripe is usually made from a polymer containing ferrite particles with magnetized patterns written into in. (A digital recording pattern.) It should have a coercivity of several hundred oersted or larger. For reference, the earth's magnetic field is about 1-2 Oe. The magnetic stripe on a credit card can be as much as a couple of thousand Oe, but is usually about 700-800. Most better digital tape (video/audio recording tape) is about 800 Oe. MP, metal particle, tapes have even higher coercivity.

The magnetic sensors themselves are not very subject to EMI, but the cables to the readout might feed a time sensitive noise to the readout electronics. If EMI at the cables is the problem it probably does not matter which type of DRO you have. Ideally the sensor head has enough electronics in it to convert the sensor signal into a digital signal before sending it on to the readout electronics ... so has to minimize EMI/noise effects. There is lots of EMI coming from the motor etc of a lathe, especially if you have a VFD. There is a huge amount from a motor with brushes.

The DRO magnetic sensors, Hall Effect or Magnetoresistive (there are several kinds of MR sensors) measure the DC and slowly varying AC magnetic fields from the pattern that is on the stripe. Since the lathe motion is so slow, this is essentially DC. Waving a magnet around would indicate to me that you are changing the DC field slowly (quasi-static field) at the sensor and this could produce a change in the sensor output that is interpreted as steps along the magnetic stripe. One would not normally do this during operation. Your magnetic base is designed to clamp to the steel somewhere (lathe bed). As you rotate the knob or lever of the base the magnetic is turned so that the poles cause the internal magnetic field to point through the base surface and into the steel. The magnetic field (magnetic flux) comes out of one surface of the base, through the steel lathe bed, and then returns into the other side of the base. This way the flux is essentially coming from the north pole and back to the south pole of the magnet that is inside the base. In this magnetic circuit there is virtually no external fields outside of the base and the lathe bed. When it does this the field/flux is contained in the lathe bed and so does not /should not be much of any where else. That is, there are virtually no magnetic fields outside of the device and the steel it is clamped to. Hence, the sensor and DRO should work perfectly fine as it would see no field from the magnetic base.

The magnetic sensor "housing" should be made from a soft magnetic material to deflect/re-route any external fields away from the sensor itself, but by necessity the sensor must be able to sense the stripe. Ideally the back of the stripe would be of soft magnetic material to also prevent any external field from reaching the sensor. In both cases the soft magnetic material would then essentially short out most of any external field. Even simple steels tend to be pretty good soft magnetic materials for this purpuse. Someone mentioned mu-metal which is an extremely soft (near zero coercivity) magnetic material. This would be good to shield the sensor head as well as to put on the back of the magnetic stripe spaced a short distance away from the magnetic particle materials. (think a layered structure: magnetic particles/non-magnetic materials/soft magnetic base)

Some stainless steels are not magnetic, but some are. Aluminum, brass, copper and many other metals are not magnetic and so would NOT work as shields from external fields.

I had a project a couple of years ago where I needed to observe the magnetization patterns of a material changing with applied field. These are small enough that I needed to do the measurements via a special microscope (polarized light is changed a little bit when it reflects from a magnetic material surface --- Kerr effect). However, the applied field was time dependent and the steel parts of the microscope would be pulled as the field varied. Hence, parts of the microscope wiggled with the varying magnetic field screwing up the optical signal. I had to take the microscope and all of the associated mechanical stages apart and replace any parts made from ferromagnetic materials with parts made from non-magnetic materials. In many cases I used brass or non-magnetic SS for the bolts, nuts, rods, etc. However, in one of the objective housings there were bearings that ran on steel runners. I replace the balls with ceramic balls and the runners (~0.25 wide by 2.5" diameter washer shapes) which were very thin ~0.015" steel with Titanium. It is always hard to clamp and cut sheet material, but it is really hard to machine Ti this thin!

So either shield you sensor head or stop waving magnets around! If you are going to clamp a magnetic base near your magnetic DRO I suggest that you reset your origin/reference after you clamp the magnetic base down. After all the magnetic base should have no effect on the DRO once it is stationary.

On the other hand, just send me the DRO's you are taking off line!

Good luck.

Dave L.
 
@pontiac428
It seems to return to zero
It should not return to zero. The scales count pulses and so are are relative, not absolute, distance measurement instruments and if you have introduced extra counts via noise then they should not go away. The DRO counts the pulses. I have tried to invent an absolute DRO and the problem is in getting high resolution at a speed that is useful.

Dave L.
 
Very nice explanation. As you suggest, my DRO does NOT return to zero after magnetic interference. It is counting that as pulses. On my particular machine the most likely place I would clamp a mag base is unfortunately right next to the read head! This is just something I will need to be conscious of...
Thinking about this, it would be pretty easy for the manufacturers to put a strip of mu metal on the backside of the tape. I should note that the tape is actually pretty cheap so replacement is not hard. Ditron, Electronica, and M-DRO all sell it separately if you did happen to damage it somehow.
 
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