Who owns a Grizzly 4003 lathe from 1999 to 2005 ?

pdentrem said:
The contractor on the top right with the yellow plunger is the one I believe you need to activate. BTW I gutted the box on mine and replaced with a VFD and a new 3 phase motor.
Click to expand...


What do I do to "activate " it ?
 
I think that in the two wire diagrams I posted, that KA1 is that third contact.
 
Do you have a continuity (ohms meter) tester? Make sure you work with power off
Can you check which color wire (orange, blue, brown, black)

goes to 21NC on the left contactor
goes to 21NC on the right contactor
and which one goes to 34NO on the right contactor (yellow plunger)
 
That contractor should only 4 wires. Two are going to the pull in coil and the other two are likely power in and out. Follow one of pull in coil wires back to a switch.
 
jmanatee said:
Do you have a continuity (ohms meter) tester? Make sure you work with power off
Can you check which color wire (orange, blue, brown, black)

goes to 21NC on the left contactor
goes to 21NC on the right contactor
and which one goes to 34NO on the right contactor (yellow plunger)
Click to expand...


Yep, I will check that first thing in the morning and reply then
 
Ok, I got the time to start on the lathe again. Here are where all 4 wires hook, on the opposite end of the harness
green/yellow to main ground
black (arrow) wire termintes on 21NC left side contacter
both the blue (arrow) and the brown (arrow) wire terminate on bottom right hole on right contacter Can't read the number on this contactor
red (arrow) wire terminates on bottom terminal board

The 5 wire harness that comes out the front of the lathe and goes to the drum switch comes straight back to the bottom of the electrical box and is circled in yellow (had to move the lathe out from the wall this morning to get this pic)
DSC02846.JPG
 
Ok that's odd, Which wire goes to the middle contactor? 21NC?
 
In comments below, I am only talking about the left two (Red plunger) contactors and ignoring the right 3rd contactor (Yellow Plunger).

Both the two left contactors are wired through each other
So Left contactor un-energized 21NC connects to 22NC which should feed over to A2 (or A1) on the right contactor
So right contactor un-energized 21NC connects to 22NC which should feed over to A2 (or A1) on the left contactor

This is a protection so if you are in forward (say left contactor is energized) this opens the contact 21NC to 22NC on the left contactor which breaks the ability for the right contactor to operate and vice versa.

You should have a traceable wire that feeds from each of the two left contactors out to your control switch.

Lets start by finding them
 
All of the information I am providing it based on the current diagrams. I am assuming they are the same for your vintage.
It appears the colors they are using are not the same.

The third contactor (yellow plunger) is supposed to latch on after you push the power start switch and stay on until you push estop or lose power, overload the motor.

Ignoring the green and yellow (earth) there are four wires two should go to the two left contactors, one should come from the power start switch and one should go to the 3rd contactor.

We should be able to narrow down the one from the power start switch because you should get a voltage jump on one of the four wires when the power start switch is pushed.

If that works, you can then determine which is the forward, reverse and 3rd contactor by holding the above found wire to each if the other 3 one by one and pushing power start, One should operate forward, one reverse and one should latch the 3rd contact.

If all of the above works, You should connect the first found power switch wire to the the 3rd contactor wire. Now when you press power start the 3rd contact should latch on and stay on until estop. Now you should be able to touch either the forward or reverse to the two connected and get forward and reverse.

Again this is what today diagrams show.

Hope this helps
 
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