Who owns a Grizzly 4003 lathe from 1999 to 2005 ?

[Mutt]

Yes just for testing

I'll check this first thing when I get to the shop this morning and reply

 

[Mutt]

Ok, jump 4-5 and push starter button with drum switch OFF. Nothing.
4-5 with drum switch in forward (or reverse position), 3rd (yellow) contactor does nothing, but there is a big GREEN spark coming out of the right contactor unit as soon as the motor starts.. I checked all 8 terminal screws and made sure they were tight. Tried again. Same big green spark, motor still turns, but 3rd contactor doesn't move in

Jump 4 and 6, drum switch on , motor starts and turns which ever way it wants, no green spark , but yellow contactor doesn't move
Jump 4 and 7, same thing. Regardless if the drum switch is turned to forward or to reverse, the motor turns what ever direction the spindle last stops in and the slack is in that direction (if that makes sense.) Yellow contactor doesn't move

 

[jmanatee]

I dont know how your drum switch is wired or how it works, to connect the wiring for now you should leave it out of the equation. even disconnect it.

Have you changed any of the wiring at the contactors? According to current manual diagrams this is straight forward.

What caused you to think your original drum switch went bad? What were the symptoms? Is it possible the 3rd contactor was at fault all along?

 

[Mutt]

I dont know how your drum switch is wired or how it works, to connect the wiring for now you should leave it out of the equation. even disconnect it.

Have you changed any of the wiring at the contactors? According to current manual diagrams this is straight forward.

What caused you to think your original drum switch went bad? What were the symptoms? Is it possible the 3rd contactor was at fault all along?

NO one has ever been inside this electrical box til I did when I made this post. Nothing has been altered since it was shipped to me brand new in 1999.. How is it possible to disconnet the drum switch all together and the lathe still power up?

The Grizzly page shown here, says wiring has been changed at the starter switch as has the switch itself. Otherwise every thing is the same. See page here
https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g4003_m.pdf

There was no original drum switch. if you look back on the first page of this thread, you will see the other cheap clear plastic junk switches still in place

I have no idea if the 3rd (yellow) contactor is bad or not.

Here is a video.

The last 3 seconds I am pushing the start button (camera went off of subject)
.
Regardless of what one does right now, you have to spin the chuck to start it. and it won't stay running unless the start button stays depressed.

The buzzing noise, (like when ya push in a contactor, ) happens as seen in the video and every time you push in a contactor and hold it, if ya spin the chuck by hand, the motor runs fine. The chuck will not start turning on it's own, period. The 3rd contactor never goes in on it's own by moving the lever on the drum switch,etc

If ya turn the drum switch on, push in the start button and spin the chuck the motor runs fine.

 

[jmanatee]

I think the original forward reverse switch uses micro switches to switch the contactors (Low current). It did not have to be heavy duty.
Your new drum switch is designed to switch the motor directly (high current).

You have wired the new drum switch so I don't know what wires make contact when you switch it to forward, reverse or leave it off. This could be causing a problem. This is why I would like you to eliminate it from the equation. I am trying to help you to understand how it was originally wired so that you can install this new switch.

What were the original symptoms before you touched the switch, What made you think the original switch was bad? Maybe a contactor went bad and you thought it was the switch.

A motor that hums with power but but doesn't run until started by hand indicates a bad start capacitor.

 

[Joe B]

My G4003 was purchased July 1998. The date on the Grizzly inspection report is hard to read but looks like 1991 (probibly '97). The 4003 is no marvel of fine workmanship but it has done all I asked of it and I have learned to wook to a couple of tenths when that level of tolerance is needed. I have had no electrical issues so I can't give any advice on the reversing switch.
Hope this diagram helps. Looks like there is already a lot of good feedback.

 

[Mutt]

I think the original forward reverse switch uses micro switches to switch the contactors (Low current). It did not have to be heavy duty.
Your new drum switch is designed to switch the motor directly (high current).

You have wired the new drum switch so I don't know what wires make contact when you switch it to forward, reverse or leave it off. This could be causing a problem. This is why I would like you to eliminate it from the equation. I am trying to help you to understand how it was originally wired so that you can install this new switch.

What were the original symptoms before you touched the switch, What made you think the original switch was bad? Maybe a contactor went bad and you thought it was the switch.

A motor that hums with power but but doesn't run until started by hand indicates a bad start capacitor.

The reason I messed with the original switch is, it quit working.

When I removed the switch housing cover, the switch was broken in pieces (clear thin plastic junk) and because the switch was broken, it would not turn the machine on and off any more, so the switch needed to be replaced.

Grizzly "updated" my 1999 switch sometime around 2008 to a "mini drum" and then changed that switch again in 2014 to a pair of limit switches.

My switch has been obsoleted since 2008. the type II switch Grizzly went to in 2008 was obsoleted in 2014. They stopped selling type I switch in 2008, and stopped selling type II (mini drum) switch in 2014. I was left to my own resources if I want my lathe to work again.

Can't afford a $3500 new lathe just because a company updates machines and kicks their old customers to the curb; instead of designing the new updated switch to fit exact where the earlier type was , without modifications

The start cap is new.

Is there a way to test the 3 contactor units, or is it something that I have to just spend $190 plus shipping on, get them in the mail, only to find out the contactors weren't bad to begin with?

 

[Mutt]

My G4003 was purchased July 1998. The date on the Grizzly inspection report is hard to read but looks like 1991 (probibly '97). The 4003 is no marvel of fine workmanship but it has done all I asked of it and I have learned to wook to a couple of tenths when that level of tolerance is needed. I have had no electrical issues so I can't give any advice on the reversing switch.
Hope this diagram helps. Looks like there is already a lot of good feedback.

Thanks for posting that original wiring diagram.. Maybe someone can now figure out how I can hook up my new drum switch correctly. Much appreciated

 

[jmanatee]

If you want to scrap the estop, power start, inching and all safeties. (I highly do not recommend this)

To wire the motor directly to switch ( Line power -> drum switch -> motor )

There are four wire that go to the motor U1, U2, Z1, Z2

U1 = Neutral
U2 = Line

Forward
Z1 = Line
Z2 = Neutral

Reverse
Z1 = Neutral
Z2 = Line

I may have above labels forward and reverse backwards if so swap Z1 and Z2

 

[Mutt]

If you want to scrap the estop, power start, inching and all safeties. (I highly do not recommend this)

To wire the motor directly to switch ( Line power -> drum switch -> motor )

There are four wire that go to the motor U1, U2, Z1, Z2

U1 = Neutral
U2 = Line

Forward
Z1 = Line
Z2 = Neutral

Reverse
Z1 = Neutral
Z2 = Line

I may have above labels forward and reverse backwards if so swap Z1 and Z2

So what do I do with these numbers?
These wires are what is connected to the left side of the power strip in this pic? (disregard the back and yellow arrows, I just copy and pasted this pic from one of the ones earlier in the thread)
I see bottom left if this pic, 2 fat yellow insulated wires followed to the right U1 U2 Z1 Z2 aand they cross the strip upward and have the same tags. The jog button hasn't worked in quite a few years, so I don't care if I ever have that . The power start button would just become the lever on the drum switch and the estop I can live without (until I end up buying a new lathe or at least a good American made lathe like a Monarch 10EE !!)