That is Grizzlys version II. There own design drum switch (mine is a Dayton, made in USA drum switch, steel and bakelite) Grizzly discontinued my original switches, then they discontinued your chinese drum switch and now they have 2 limit switches. Nothing comes even close to interchanging. They will sell ya the stuff and you have to fab all the parts to make it work. Not worth my time. This switch is beginnning to show signs of "it's gonna work" !!!!
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Who owns a Grizzly 4003 lathe from 1999 to 2005 ?
- Thread starter Mutt
- Start date
That is Grizzlys version II. There own design drum switch (mine is a Dayton, made in USA drum switch, steel and bakelite) Grizzly discontinued my original switches, then they discontinued your chinese drum switch and now they have 2 limit switches. Nothing comes even close to interchanging. They will sell ya the stuff and you have to fab all the parts to make it work. Not worth my time. This switch is beginnning to show signs of "it's gonna work" !!!!
nothing,, nothing.
Ok y'all. Here's a short video
turn drum switch lever forward or reverse. Nothing
Turn drum switch forward and hold ON button, motor turns.
Turn drum switch to reverse, hold ON button, motor turns.
Kill the power, turn it back on, turn drum switch, you still have to hold the ON button in or nothing works.
are a couple of wires crossed?
turn drum switch lever forward or reverse. Nothing
Turn drum switch forward and hold ON button, motor turns.
Turn drum switch to reverse, hold ON button, motor turns.
Kill the power, turn it back on, turn drum switch, you still have to hold the ON button in or nothing works.
are a couple of wires crossed?
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2014
- Messages
- 113
The left two contactors are direction one for forward and one for reverse,
The right (or 3rd) contactor is suppose to latch and stay on when you hit power start until you hit estop or lose power or overload motor
The upper right item is an overload relay which will break (turn off) the 3rd contactor if the motor stalls,
The upper left should be a transformer to step down voltages 110v (and possibly 24v but that might be the 4003g only)
The latched 3rd contactor should provide power to the forward and reverse switch allowing them to power the left two contactors.
The right (or 3rd) contactor is suppose to latch and stay on when you hit power start until you hit estop or lose power or overload motor
The upper right item is an overload relay which will break (turn off) the 3rd contactor if the motor stalls,
The upper left should be a transformer to step down voltages 110v (and possibly 24v but that might be the 4003g only)
The latched 3rd contactor should provide power to the forward and reverse switch allowing them to power the left two contactors.
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2014
- Messages
- 113
I think you are having to hold the power button because you are not latching the 3rd contact.
I think you should keep the 3rd contact inline because that gives you your motor overload protection. It also ensures if you have a power failure and leave the forward reverse switch engaged, it will not restart until the power start button is pressed.
I think you should keep the 3rd contact inline because that gives you your motor overload protection. It also ensures if you have a power failure and leave the forward reverse switch engaged, it will not restart until the power start button is pressed.
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2011
- Messages
- 3,485
Inside the control box there are the two contactors, forward and reverse, and a third one to power everything. I took photos of the complete diagrams for the BDB and the GH versions. Maybe it will help locate the wire for the run switch.
