Which 5C Collect Chuck to go with?

I had them all as well and sold them all other than a few Jacobs flex collet chucks . They work for what I need to do .
 
I like this idea... I will have air next to the lathe... I could use a butterfly air wrench... and avoid the additional cost of going with something like the Atlas

View attachment 394919




I saw this while searching the forum... Cool idea...


View attachment 394926

I saw what you are also using in that thread...

View attachment 394928


As I write this and continue to search and read the feedback... I think that I am coming back to grips with reality... for a newbie that is just playing... spending over 1.5K on the Atlas is not justified...

Leaving the Atlas out... my question then is, should I spend the additional $$ on the Bison??? Or should I stick with the original plan and order the PM. That thread where @Ischgl99 tore down his, got me a bit worried on spending 350.00 for the PM only to have to buy another/better one later... Maybe I am worrying for nothing.

With either option I will look at using one of those speed wrenches for installing and removing the collects... Air impact gun might be too drastic.

An air powered wrench might be too much unless you can set (limit) the torque on it.

I bought a Ryobi cordless ratchet for doing the drawbar on my Clausing. It is cheap because I already have batteries, but also doesn't have a ton of torque (I think the specs say 30ft/lbs) like some of the more expensive options. It is good for getting the nuts a little past finger tight, but nowhere near as tight as I can do with a wrench.

The Clausing is a small mill and I have a habit of over tightening the drawbar so the cordless is not only handy, but it gets it just tight enough.
 
An air powered wrench might be too much unless you can set (limit) the torque on it.
Yes, agreed. I will just get that handle... that should be enough improvement without going with an electric or air tool.
 
The 5C collets can be a bit of a tight fit, so they may need a little jiggling to start the threading. Using a power drive could damage the thread and may overdrive the tension unless the clutch is accurately set. Might be handy for removing collets, and the standard T-handle would be a real PTA. We each have our preferences depending on the type of work we do. I like the Bison 5C set-tru, but if on a budget I would not hesitate to get the PM version. If you have any issues they will address it. At the time I purchased my Bison 5C, I had already gone through two non set-tru 5C and one cheaper Chinese 5C set-tru. The first two were returned because they had bad TIR, the set-tru was OK but I had to turn the body true and the mechanism was sloppy. I have seen/used the PM 5C and it is better than the Chinese versions I had, I use my 5C about 50% of the time so for me it was worth the purchase price which was $900 with the back plate. Also when using your 5C I put a little bit of way oils on the the threads, but keep it away from the clamping surfaces.

Given that you can get the Bison 5" Set-Tru with a D1-4 back plate for ~$750 (best price I have seen), it is a hard decision.

D1-5 adapter is a bit more.
 
The 5C collets can be a bit of a tight fit, so they may need a little jiggling to start the threading. Using a power drive could damage the thread and may overdrive the tension unless the clutch is accurately set. Might be handy for removing collets, and the standard T-handle would be a real PTA. We each have our preferences depending on the type of work we do. I like the Bison 5C set-tru, but if on a budget I would not hesitate to get the PM version. If you have any issues they will address it. At the time I purchased my Bison 5C, I had already gone through two non set-tru 5C and one cheaper Chinese 5C set-tru. The first two were returned because they had bad TIR, the set-tru was OK but I had to turn the body true and the mechanism was sloppy. I have seen/used the PM 5C and it is better than the Chinese versions I had, I use my 5C about 50% of the time so for me it was worth the purchase price which was $900 with the back plate. Also when using your 5C I put a little bit of way oils on the the threads, but keep it away from the clamping surfaces.

Given that you can get the Bison 5" Set-Tru with a D1-4 back plate for ~$750 (best price I have seen), it is a hard decision.

D1-5 adapter is a bit more.

I keep looking... lowest price I have been able to find for a Bison unit with the D1-5 mount with shipping and tax, is 960.00

 
You do not want a direct mount, I recommend a Set-Tru where you have about +/- 0.005" adjustment to true up the center line of the chuck. I index my chuck to the spindle mounting position, it repeats within a few ten thousandth's.
 
You do not want a direct mount, I recommend a Set-Tru where you have about +/- 0.005" adjustment to true up the center line of the chuck. I index my chuck to the spindle mounting position, it repeats within a few ten thousandth's.
Ohhh.... Thank you! I did not pay attention to that detail!!

If I end up with the Bison it will have to be: Chuck Part Number 7-862-0505 and D1-5 Adapter Part Number 7-875-055
 
I sold a few Hardinge - Scrlogens ( sp ) D1-8 chucks awhile back on the bay . They were 22J and 2J complete with full Hardinge collet sets . I think I got over $900 each years ago . They went with my 20" Leblonde lathe . They had a nice range allowing full use of the large thru spindle size . I wouldn't want to re-purchase them these days and I sure wouldn't want to have to buy that lathe back either . :eek:
 
Thank you guys.... I ended up ordering the one from Precision Matthews... at 1/3 of the price of the Bison, I just could not justify paying so much more for the Bison (as much as I wanted to get it)...
 
Back
Top