Where do you usually buy your tools? - Amazon?

Has anyone tried these?

https://www.amazon.com/Clockwise-To...d=1495298391&sr=1-31&keywords=digital+caliper

The price is right and they are highly rated. I bought a Clockwise digital indicator which is pretty nice.
I tend to prefer digital indicators and calipers. For micrometers I'm ok with analog.

I buy most of my tools from Amazon, then Shars then Ebay. That is mainly because I have Prime and
Amazon is good with returns.
 
I get my stuff from E-Bay, Shars, KBC, and Enco before they were swallowed up by MSC. I have also found some deals on Craigs list.
 
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Originally, when I started to take classes in machine shop in high school, about all there was , an auto parts store that stocked and sold Starrett tools, another sold Union tools, I bought from both and by the time I finished my apprenticeship, I had about all I needed, mikes to 6", 12" vernier caliper an height gage and all the other tools used by a machinist; I bought several tools from ads in the Machinist's Monthly Journal, published by the International Association of Machinists, out union, and a few things from a pawn shop. as I moved on, I bought a few tools here and there, and eventually went into the machine shop business and worked at it for about 35 years, buying much machinery and tools, some new, some used. It was not until the advent of E Bay that so much was easily available, I have found all to many tools that I HAD TO HAVE! still, the quest continues, so many tools, so little time.
Sadly, every time I peruse the E Bay listings, I feel saddened; obviously so many dead machinist's tools ---- Back in the day, a retiring machinist sold his tools to apprentices in the shop; passed them on to the next generation; sadly, little of this tradition seems to be continuing.
When I was actively buying tools and supplies for my shop, I used KBC, then MSC, and McMaster Carr to a small extent. Also, every so often, someone would stop by the shop and offer tools and supplies for sale; I got a whole lot of stuff that way, there being few other shops in the area; one guy showed up with more or less of a level load in a small pickup, all new stuff; yes, I had to have it!
 
Unfortunately these are faked a lot, and given the number of returns to Amazon, I would be surprised if some people substitute the counterfeits and return them to Amazon. Also Amazon is just a storefront for other online vendors, not too long ago I ordered some machine parts from Amazon and they ended up shipping from China arrives weeks later after the project needed to be done. The product pictures are often generic or substituted, and not what you will be getting. This is very common for the eBay China vendors selling Mitutoyo.

(1) The battery should read “SR44” and “Japan” on the battery itself (not just on the packaging), and there should be no battery already installed in the calipers.
(2) The calipers should come in a sealed plastic bag packed with a bit of Ferobrite anti-corrosion paper and a yellow tag on the locking knob telling how to install the battery and such.
(3) The display of these calipers should read, "0.0000" when zeroed out in the "inches" mode - counterfeits might read, "0.000" and might have a smaller 0/5 digit on the far right.
(4) The locking knob on the top should be the same shape and style as shown in the factory pictures, not as tall and a unknurled portion at the top. The fakes have a taller knob knurled from top to bottom
(5) The "ORIGIN" button should be recessed, also look at the difference in the plastic molding around the button.
(6) The batter covers are completely different, the original there is a straight mold line that continues across the cap, the fake the mold line swings down and around the bottom of the battery cap. The "ABSOLUTE" is printed on the original battery door, the fake it is on the body of the caliper.
(7) The serial number on the caliper needs to match the serial number listed on the calibration certificate.
(8) The calipers and packaging should not mention China - anywhere - especially not on the box/envelope/battery in which they were shipped.
(9) The fit and finish of the caliper, the copies have rough grind marks and often there will be a gap between the ID and OD jaws.
This is just a few things, there are numerous other differences, unfortunately many you need to have in your hands to tell.

Know what you are buying. I think getting an Absolute indicating caliper is worth the extra spend, the cheaper calipers that I use to use have had some measuring errors moving the slider back and forth, to the point I never trusted the reading, and would constantly re-zero and double check the readings. I have an Igaging Absolute 6" which I highly recommend, I have a real Mitutoyo 8" Absolute, and it is nice to work with and very accurate. I would suggest if you are going to pay the price for a "real" one, I would purchase it from a major tool vendor as opposed to save a few $ and be surprised.
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I had a case a few years ago when I needed a new battery for my laptop, found one on eBay, seller in china, and bought it. The ad on eBay showed a picture with all the right markings on the battery , brand name model number etc. When the battery arrived it was a plain unmarked battery except for a small bit of Chinese characters. I installed the battery in the laptop and presto it worked. plugged it into the charger, and the computers charging circuit refused to recognise the battery and would not charge it.

I contacted eBay and explained the situation, and they made the battery supplier take back the battery at their cost and give a full refund including the postage, A win, I then found another seller in Hong Kong, similar photo of battery, I asked them is that a genuine photo of the battery they supply they assured me it was. I bought the battery and yes it was a genuine one, gave a full 2.5 years service, by that time I was ready to retire that laptop.

Hong Kong after many years as a British colony understands that honesty in business is most important, Some years ago A friend who did quite a bit of business in Hong Kong said that they will drive a hard bargain, but when the handshaking is done, what you agreed on is what you will get.
 
I gotta give a shout out for Penn Tool in Maplewood, NJ. I've bought a lot from them and never had a problem with anything. Nice guys too and they'll answer any question you have. Prices aren't too bad. Their website sucks, and I've told them that....a couple of times. :rolleyes: With McMaster you usually get quality known brands but I hate how they won't (can't?) tell you the brand(s) of the item(s) you want. MSC sometimes has decent prices but they're definitely not who I think of first...actually Penn Tool I got to first. Amazon's not bad but that doesn't definitely mean you're getting an authentic branded tool....but you have a better chance than on Ebay.
 
Has anyone tried these?

https://www.amazon.com/Clockwise-To...d=1495298391&sr=1-31&keywords=digital+caliper

The price is right and they are highly rated.
Just got the pair I ordered. Very nice, large display, relatively smooth action (especially compared to the Harbor Fright ones), nice price, good "clapper" closure, there's an actual wheel for finer settings, and they use the CR2032 lithium battery, which seems to be displacing the older SR44/LR44.

About the only negative thing I've found so far is that they don't detect position when powered down. This results in two un-features. (1) They lose zero when turned off. (2) They don't turn on when moved. If the circuit isn't looking at the position, it can't detect that it's changing.

The instruction sheet says they have an automatic time-out at about 5 to 7 minutes. I just checked that and it seems more like 3 minutes. That might turn out to be a bother because of the loss of zero.
 
Just looked at the link.
This image claims are total BS.
They claim smoother sliding and more precision. First one is made by a vertical mill, one by a horizontal. No precision diff. Neither promotes smoother sliding. Looks are subjective. One could actually argue that the horizontal will cut a better more precise groove. As far as the caliper. It probably is well made, but their claims for this image are just marketing BS.

*******t.jpg
 
I sorta-kinda agree that it's vaporware. All that the groove is for is clearance for the depth rod. But then, it's a modern cliche that any difference between products can/should be pointed out by the marketing weenies and claimed as an improvement :)

"It's not a bug ... it's a feature!" Think back to (I think) the '70s, when copper prices went out the roof and appliances started coming out with cords just a foot long. They were claiming that this was a safety feature!
 
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I........... Think back to (I think) the '70s, when copper prices went out the roof and appliances started coming out with cords just a foot long. They were claiming that this was a safety feature!
Yeah, even today, they made the cords a little longer, not by much. Still have to plug everything into a power strip because the cords are still not long enough! And in my house built in the late 1970's, three outlets in the kitchen. One behind the stove that's totally useless!, The other two are shoved back into a corner that you can't reach! So, they get power strips plugged in so plugs are in reach of any appliance plugged in.

BTW- And I think I've posted this before, if you want a nice smooth moving digital caliper that won't break the budget, Try this one,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/digital-ver...836356?hash=item3a9058b744:g:8qEAAOSwtnpXoa0k

I own three digital calipers from these guys and I consider these the best out of any of the Asian made one's out there.

Ken
 
Most every new Mitutoyo tool that I have bought during the last several years has had this QR looking code engraved on it, calipers, dial bore gauges and indicators.
All bought from MSC.

My only complaint about the newer Mits calipers is the plastic cap that holds the depth blade in is easily dislodged, in the past they were screwed on.
I have nothing like that on mine.
 
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