What rod for welding red iron

[matthewsx]

I just got a cheap stick welder and am about to start on the new table for my lathe.



Will be using this 3/8” red iron for the base and looking for recommendations on which rod to use.



Thanks,

John

 

[General Zod]

Unless you've done a spark test, or some other kind of test, to determine that it is actually some kind of cast iron and not regular, mild, low-carbon steel, you can use any standard steel rod to weld it since it is most likely regular ol' mild steel that has been painted for corrosion resistance. When I say "any standard steel rod", I mean E6011, E6013, E7014, E7018 being the most common ones. Most welders under $500 can't run E6010s properly, so I don't recommend you waste your money buying those. I have two super cheap inverter stick welders, is how I know.

By the way, are you aware of the short comings of the stick welder (and it's accessories) you just bought?

 

[matthewsx]

I know it's structural steel not cast iron, just painted red and commonly referred to as red Iron in the building trades.

I'm sure the machine I've purchased likely has many shortcomings, I'd expect nothing less for under $100. I'm open to recommendations in that price range that are better.

John

 

[Nutfarmer]

6011 is what I would use on the heaver steel with a buzz box. Lighter steel use 6013. If you have a good dc machine it’s hard to beat 7018. I have never been able to run 7018 on a buzz box.

 

[General Zod]

At that price range, they're likely all the same.....as they say, "they're all coming from the same factory, same production line, except the paint job/brand name is painted differently at the end of the assembly line".

I saw the same exact thing with my super cheap inverter stick welders from Tooliom. The "195" put out about 160A on 240V. The "135" put out 115A on 240V and about 95A on 120V. Don't get me wrong, if you know how to weld, you will be able to weld with these machines (except with E6010s), but if you don't, you don't know what you don't know, and thus won't know what is what. Hopefully you do already know how to weld. Some issues namely:

• Amperage display and rating is over rated by a lot (as you can see from that snapshot from Amazon; TB1717 on YouTube has tested these and has documented this evidence)
• Cables are CCA, and not OFC copper, which is what they should be (OFC copper for better current transfer)
• Some of the stingers do not have actual copper/brass jaws. They use copper/brass plated steel jaws.

All of that summed together spell d-i-s-a-s-t-e-r for a beginner welder. That said, they will still "work", just not as nice as a good welder with good quality accessories. Surprisingly, there are some on Amazon/Ebay that have sort of caught-on to us that have have caught-on to them the distributors (I hesitate to call them "manufacturers, lol); some claim that their welders do actually put out the amperage that they are rated at, which is unheard of for a real welding machine to have to state such a fact. In a good welder, it is assumed that it will, so for them to have to state "our welders actually put out what they are rated at!" tells you everything about what is going on with some of the cheap machines.

This one from Hone Arc is one example. Supposedly actually puts out 185A, which if it does, makes it nothing short of stellar with regards to power:cost ratio. Most 200A welders under $200 put out about 150-160A in reality. I'm actually wanting to try it to see if it is really true!

One that has been tested, but is more expensive, is the Kicking Horse A220. I can't speak for how smooth it is, nor durability, but that little lunchbox puts out 220A! TB1717 on YouTube tested it out in this video, and the power output, well, is crazy! If you absolutely need to keep it under $500, that Kicking Horse doesn't look too bad. If you have $500 to spend, the HTP Inverarc 160 Plus DV is the way to go.

 

[matthewsx]

I'm not an expert weldor but I have been sticking metal together since my dad taught me with his oxy/acetylene rig in the 1970's. I do have a small mig welder but figure stick would be better for this thick of material. This is just a "make it strong" application as it's be for the base of my new lathe stand.

Will get some 6011 rod and see how it goes.

John

 

[General Zod]

oh ok, then so long as you know how to "read the puddle" then you'll be able to discern how to make it work with that machine. E6011 is definitely the go-to for thick with a stick welder. That steel looks to be ⅜" or ½" thickness?

 

[matthewsx]

Yes, 3/8"

 

[markba633csi]

Here's a handy-dandy chart:
(position 1 means any position, 2 means horiz. only)
Note: digit 4 should read "iron powder" not "iron power"

 

[Martin W]

6011 or 7018 will be fine. Brush the mill scale off and go at it . Practice make perfect. IMHO.
Cheers
Martin