What are your thoughts? Early Delta-Milwaukee 6x48 sander repairs

I used the pneumatic/hydraulic press at work to remove the upper shaft that supports the drum. Man, I'd hate to do that job without a press!
The shaft is shot. If I decide to make one is cold rolled ok or do I need something like 4140?
The vintagemachinery.org website never lets me down. The last two pics are part of the tutorial I found.
 

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The vintagemachinery.org website never lets me down.

If you haven't visited the sister site OWWM.org forums- that's where most of the valuable info is. Do a search on Delta 6 x 48 sanders and you'll find posts that cover almost anything you might consider doing to yours, written by people who have actually done the work- not just speculation.
Its the best place to learn about older machine tools maintenance.
Peter
 
If you haven't visited the sister site OWWM.org forums- that's where most of the valuable info is
I added those two pics about the worn shaft and how to press the shaft out of the idler drum. I'm pretty sure it came for OWWM.org. now that you pointed this out.
Thank you.
I joined that site quite a while back. I need to use it more often, it's a gold mine.
 
Why do you think the shaft is bad? Looks salvageable, but I may be missing something. Mike
 
Why do you think the shaft is bad? Looks salvageable, but I may be missing something. Mike
Mike, The shaft was spinning instead of the inner race on the bearing. When I reassemble with new bearings, I'll have .030" gap between the end of the shaft pilot and the inner bearing race.
I either need to clean up the end of the shaft and make a bushing (603 locktite) and reassemble or make/buy a new one.

I removed the bearing from the idler housing. It has a threaded retainer that is stripped. It was spinning but wasn't going anywhere.
What would you do?
I'm thinking, put a new bearing in there and locktite it in place.
Your thoughts?
Thanks
 

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I think Locktite on the retainer would work, or you could make a new one from a section of sch 40 pipe or similar. On the shaft wear I would probably weld it up and turn back to size, which would solve several issues at once, but I do tend to do things the hard way at times. Second choice would be some thin shim stock and the locktight, or if really close, just the Locktite. If not welding up, the .030 gap issue could be solved by truing the step in the shaft and installing a spacer if I'm following you right. Cheers, Mike
 
I think Locktite on the retainer would work, or you could make a new one from a section of sch 40 pipe or similar. On the shaft wear I would probably weld it up and turn back to size, which would solve several issues at once, but I do tend to do things the hard way at times. Second choice would be some thin shim stock and the locktight, or if really close, just the Locktite. If not welding up, the .030 gap issue could be solved by truing the step in the shaft and installing a spacer if I'm following you right. Cheers, Mike
Good idea about the weld build, much easier. Yes, you have it right. I have welding equipment and a lathe. That, to me, seems to be a good alternative to fabrication.
 
Well now, the plot thickens. According to vintage machinery, the knowledge base has references showing the old and late design on the shaft for the idler.
My shaft looks like the newer style. The thread OD on mine is smaller than the shaft OD. I'm showing you both ends of my shaft. I think they are supposed to be the same. Also, the bearing is supposed to have a thicker inner race on one side-longer on one side. My bearings are the same.
I think I'll just use common sense and reassemble with mechanical common sense. I think I can pull it off.
I don't think I explained myself very well.
It's Black Friday at the Ford dealership here in the rice fields and walnut orchards. Not much going on.
 

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You have totally got this Jeff!
It's going to be a great machine again :)
 
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