Wells-Index 847 Milling Machine - Ownership Thread

wachuko said:
Quill lock is loose... but I can take it out and check that... would be nice if it was something that simple.

When the spindle was out, yes, to make sure the spring was wound before reinserting...

If that does not solve it, I will remove the spindle again an
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wachuko said:
d check everything... I have to grease all that inside anyway...
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It calls for grease, not oil?
I'm thinking you may have the nuts too tight, or IDK.. just throwing possibilities out there.
 
woodchucker said:
It calls for grease, not oil?
I'm thinking you may have the nuts too tight, or IDK.. just throwing possibilities out there.
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Grease, correct... but let me double check.

That is the questions that I have... what nuts I need to loosen... It was like this when I got it, I just think it is not normal... something, somewhere is tighter than it needs to be.

But I want to remove the spindle again and double check the internals... But I recall coming out easy and going in easy as well... weird...

I have not touched the lever area... I will go over the manual to see what is involved in checking in there...

Head1.JPG
 
Yeah, that's WAY too much effort to lower your spindle. Here's mine.
The nut I reference in the video is referred to as the Stop nut in the head diagram. Part #38. I've attached a trimmed down version of the manual specific to the schematics if you care. And if you haven't started to become familiar with these schematics, I highly recommend it. They're invaluable references and are quite fun to learn how to read (follow all the lines)...



847composite+manual.pdf

drive.google.com drive.google.com
 
Wow!! That was extremely helpful!!! That has to be my issue... Thank you!!

The streaks are because last time I was there I put a thin coat of grease all over it... let me redo mine again... But that nut has to be the issue that I have...
 
I stand corrected... vertical spindle uses oil... that is what the oil cup is for... duh... my bad. Let me clean all that and start over. I misread the list...

Mobil Vactra Oil No. 2

Grease and oil.jpeg
 
Also forgot to mention something about my VFD setup... I actually mounted a switch next to mine between the wall and the VFD so I wouldn't have to unplug the VFD from the wall. Can sort of act like an E-Stop but I don't really every use it that way.
2020-03-16_12-26-33.png
 
woodchucker said:
man those support screws look lost on that casting. what size screws are those?

Looks like the action on your power draw bar is tight when it rides on the 2 rods, it didn't look like it came back up in the first video. nice work.
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If you're referring to the screws holding down the power draw bar, those are 1/4 - 20 cap head screws. Plenty tight.

Regarding the spring up action on the pneumatics, you'll probably never believe this I might not explain it that well but after engaging either forward or in reverse which also pressurize the pneumatic to push the body down, I have to relieve the pressure so that the springs can push the body back up. There are special pneumatic valves that I think have balls inside them that allow for exhausting the pressure but what I did was super MacGyver. :)
I put a tiny pinhole in the line directly above the pneumatic that relieves the pressure just fast enough to let the springs push the cylinder back up. It was totally a hail mary but believe it or not, it's worked for 2 years now and the hole doesn't increase in size and it totally works. The hole is actually small enough that the inrush of pressure is more than enough to push the whole mechanism down and stars spinning.

power draw bar exhaust solution.jpg
 
paulymorph said:
If you're referring to the screws holding down the power draw bar, those are 1/4 - 20 cap head screws. Plenty tight.

Regarding the spring up action on the pneumatics, you'll probably never believe this I might not explain it that well but after engaging either forward or in reverse which also pressurize the pneumatic to push the body down, I have to relieve the pressure so that the springs can push the body back up. There are special pneumatic valves that I think have balls inside them that allow for exhausting the pressure but what I did was super MacGyver. :)
I put a tiny pinhole in the line directly above the pneumatic that relieves the pressure just fast enough to let the springs push the cylinder back up. It was totally a hail mary but believe it or not, it's worked for 2 years now and the hole doesn't increase in size and it totally works. The hole is actually small enough that the inrush of pressure is more than enough to push the whole mechanism down and stars spinning.

View attachment 399795
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no, I'm referring to your levelers.... they look tiny... I know they are bigger, but they look smallllllllllllll.
 
paulymorph said:
Also forgot to mention something about my VFD setup... I actually mounted a switch next to mine between the wall and the VFD so I wouldn't have to unplug the VFD from the wall. Can sort of act like an E-Stop but I don't really every use it that way.
View attachment 399794
Click to expand...
Yes, I quickly realized that I needed something similar. My plan is to use a small breaker box that I have.

Back to trying to make spindle smooth… I removed the cap and loosened the nut. Much better. Would still not go back up on its own, but so much better now.

034766B3-D095-4A6D-BA89-6FD96FE0B0FF.jpeg

Edit: I watched the video again. You mentioned that there is a thrust bearing… thinking of just changing that… could be the reason it is not working as smoothly as yours in the video.
 
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