- Joined
- Nov 25, 2015
- Messages
- 9,702
What? They have 2x4's in Sweden? Not some metric sized .. 
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Volvo Amazon 1965 (Volvo 13134)
- Thread starter MrCrankyface
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2019
- Messages
- 483
Well technically it's was a 45 x 95mm but for some dumb reason I always call them 2 by 4. 
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2019
- Messages
- 483
More baby steps.
Tacked the previous pieces together and double-checked clearances which still look good.
Lots of weld prep, chamfering edges and removing millscale etc.
Added the little "riser" that will support the floor, was slightly tricky since they lean back ~10 degrees compared to the beam itself.
Same thing underneath the siderunners/frame, I added some overlapping "ramps" that sticks out from the beam out underneath the frame.
And with the transmission mount as well.
Now I "only" need to make plates between the bushings and new frame piece, weld some more and reinforce the plates a bit.
Tacked the previous pieces together and double-checked clearances which still look good.
Lots of weld prep, chamfering edges and removing millscale etc.
Added the little "riser" that will support the floor, was slightly tricky since they lean back ~10 degrees compared to the beam itself.
Same thing underneath the siderunners/frame, I added some overlapping "ramps" that sticks out from the beam out underneath the frame.
And with the transmission mount as well.
Now I "only" need to make plates between the bushings and new frame piece, weld some more and reinforce the plates a bit.
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2019
- Messages
- 483
Fully welded and primed the gearbox mount. Welded a bit cold on the inside when I was trying to achieve a fillet but opted to not fix it since the entire back is welded so there's plenty of meat holding it together, the proud bead is more of a visual problem.
Fully welded the brace that will be added to the frame. Looking inside of it the penetration looks decent.
After cleanup. Plenty of weld thickness so might as well grind it down a bit and make it pretty.
And FINALLY installed in the car. The whole engine/gearbox is now held up by the car frame instead of being supported from the garage floor.
One slight issue is how annoying it is to install.
Currently there is only one way which is:
Undo the 4 bolts between red plate and gearbox, lift gearbox enough to undo the top nut on the bushings and then undo the lower nuts.
This might be extremely difficult with the transmission tunnel installed hence I'm considering making slots all the way out in the frames bushing mounts, that way the 4 bolts can be undone, bottom bushing nuts undone and then the entire mount slides out backwards and can be taken out.
Hopefully that's a more achievable solution down the line when I will have to work on this from below the car.
Fully welded the brace that will be added to the frame. Looking inside of it the penetration looks decent.
After cleanup. Plenty of weld thickness so might as well grind it down a bit and make it pretty.
And FINALLY installed in the car. The whole engine/gearbox is now held up by the car frame instead of being supported from the garage floor.
One slight issue is how annoying it is to install.
Currently there is only one way which is:
Undo the 4 bolts between red plate and gearbox, lift gearbox enough to undo the top nut on the bushings and then undo the lower nuts.
This might be extremely difficult with the transmission tunnel installed hence I'm considering making slots all the way out in the frames bushing mounts, that way the 4 bolts can be undone, bottom bushing nuts undone and then the entire mount slides out backwards and can be taken out.
Hopefully that's a more achievable solution down the line when I will have to work on this from below the car.
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2019
- Messages
- 483
Thanks! Most cheap-ish mounts I've found seem to have these studs built in but a bolt would have made it quite a bit more practical.
I considered making the whole beam boltable but preferred to have it welded in for frame stiffness.
After looking at it for a while I figured it'd be enough to slot one side.
Now one stud can be inserted and then the whole mount rotated into place and bolted to the transmission.
This should be plenty easy to remove even from underneath the car.
When reinstalling the tunnel, I realized I had missed that the beads were full length and would not sit down on the floor brace/pads I installed ...
Tried softening the steel a bit with a propane torch which was surprisingly efficient even just getting the steel blue-ish.
With the tunnel in place I spent quite some time welding in every panel except the tunnel, since I might still need to take that one out.
Hopefully with the transmission beam welded into the frame and all these panels almost fully welded the body should be stiff enough so I can take out the internal reinforcements and seal up the remaining holes in the firewall.
I considered making the whole beam boltable but preferred to have it welded in for frame stiffness.
After looking at it for a while I figured it'd be enough to slot one side.
Now one stud can be inserted and then the whole mount rotated into place and bolted to the transmission.
This should be plenty easy to remove even from underneath the car.
When reinstalling the tunnel, I realized I had missed that the beads were full length and would not sit down on the floor brace/pads I installed ...
Tried softening the steel a bit with a propane torch which was surprisingly efficient even just getting the steel blue-ish.
With the tunnel in place I spent quite some time welding in every panel except the tunnel, since I might still need to take that one out.
Hopefully with the transmission beam welded into the frame and all these panels almost fully welded the body should be stiff enough so I can take out the internal reinforcements and seal up the remaining holes in the firewall.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2019
- Messages
- 483
Another little step of progress.
Cut out the internal reinforcements and ground down a bunch of welds.
Noticed this little problem area that I need to fix somehow.
I will probably cut off the very thin plate, an inch in length or so, and sew it together again with the 1.25mm steel I'm using for the rest of the floor.
Made a very quick template just to get an idea of how large of a piece I need to cut.
Also made a quick placeholder at the bottom so I have something to meet up against.
Cutting, grinding and bending the sheet to rough fit. No intentional stretching here.
I found the shape of it quite boring and also intrudes quite a bit on foot space for no reason. The frame is right underneath the "checkered" area so I figured I could bash that a bit to make room.
Some hammering and wheeling later.
Definitely a step in the right direction but I think I need to smooth out the transition both upwards and to the left so it looks more intentional and not just like someone hit it with a wrecking ball.
Cut out the internal reinforcements and ground down a bunch of welds.
Noticed this little problem area that I need to fix somehow.
I will probably cut off the very thin plate, an inch in length or so, and sew it together again with the 1.25mm steel I'm using for the rest of the floor.
Made a very quick template just to get an idea of how large of a piece I need to cut.
Also made a quick placeholder at the bottom so I have something to meet up against.
Cutting, grinding and bending the sheet to rough fit. No intentional stretching here.
I found the shape of it quite boring and also intrudes quite a bit on foot space for no reason. The frame is right underneath the "checkered" area so I figured I could bash that a bit to make room.
Some hammering and wheeling later.
Definitely a step in the right direction but I think I need to smooth out the transition both upwards and to the left so it looks more intentional and not just like someone hit it with a wrecking ball.
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2019
- Messages
- 483
This annoyed me surprisingly much.
I know it's just a firewall but still want to make it decent.
My thoughts according to the sketch as follows:
Red: Tighten this area up so there's not this little valley between the two plates.
Orange: Hammer/dolly this area to smoothen out the transition. I think a smoother/softer transition will make it look overall more "professional".
Blue: Square up the "blister" to make it fit the panel more rather than just looking out of place.
Green: Roll in some beads like the panel to the right, for strength and make it look less empty/unfinished.
Yellow: Improve the "roundness" of this area so it has a proper radius and not just a "round-ish" shape.
I know it's just a firewall but still want to make it decent.
My thoughts according to the sketch as follows:
Red: Tighten this area up so there's not this little valley between the two plates.
Orange: Hammer/dolly this area to smoothen out the transition. I think a smoother/softer transition will make it look overall more "professional".
Blue: Square up the "blister" to make it fit the panel more rather than just looking out of place.
Green: Roll in some beads like the panel to the right, for strength and make it look less empty/unfinished.
Yellow: Improve the "roundness" of this area so it has a proper radius and not just a "round-ish" shape.
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2015
- Messages
- 9,702
my thoughts, it looks great, leave it alone and move on. No one will see it, no one will care except you.This annoyed me surprisingly much.
I know it's just a firewall but still want to make it decent.
My thoughts according to the sketch as follows:
Red: Tighten this area up so there's not this little valley between the two plates.
Orange: Hammer/dolly this area to smoothen out the transition. I think a smoother/softer transition will make it look overall more "professional".
Blue: Square up the "blister" to make it fit the panel more rather than just looking out of place.
Green: Roll in some beads like the panel to the right, for strength and make it look less empty/unfinished.
Yellow: Improve the "roundness" of this area so it has a proper radius and not just a "round-ish" shape.
View attachment 500631
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2019
- Messages
- 483
I thought about it and you're absolutely right(and thanks), I'm overworking it.
I went over it and smoothed over sharp edges and defined the "blister" a bit more and finally just wheeled the top area(previous green lines area) to get a bit of a compound curve.
Along with tightening it up to the right it should work well.
I then added the lower piece, I will try to weld these together in the car for alignment and then take them out and finish the welds.
There's still that tiny little bit at the bottom of the tunnel left to make.
I went over it and smoothed over sharp edges and defined the "blister" a bit more and finally just wheeled the top area(previous green lines area) to get a bit of a compound curve.
Along with tightening it up to the right it should work well.
I then added the lower piece, I will try to weld these together in the car for alignment and then take them out and finish the welds.
There's still that tiny little bit at the bottom of the tunnel left to make.