VEVOR 7X14 Lathe converted to a dedicated horizontal mill.

[steelcat]

I picked up this lathe originally to keep for spare parts but I thought that I can convert it to a horizontal mill as I have no milling capacity.
I got it all put together and installed. The first test run was a mess a total chatter fest. I identified multiple issues that needed to be addressed. First off I removed the compound slide and mounted the vertical slide directly to the carrage and installed a proper carrage lock. The mounting tnuts for the vertical slide clamp failed due to poor design so I drilled and taped the vertical slide and bolted the clamp to the slide. I had no way to accurately set the depth of cut. I just guessed at it and you know how well that worked. I installed a poor man's DRO and that took care of that issue. Now I can touch off and dial in the depth I want. I checked the accuracy and to my surprise it was nearly perfect. Close enough for me. The second test run was almost perfect.
I still am getting a little chatter from the vertical slide when it's near the top of its travel. I think adding two more gib adjusters may cure that?? I know there is a lot more that I can do down the road if need be. As of now I have less than 200 invested. It's nice to have a little milling capacity.

 

[homebrewed]

Some of your chatter may be due to loose fitting carriage slide plates. If the slide plate setup is similar to the Sieg family of mini lathes, they are adjusted using a jackscrew system, which is pretty fiddly to adjust for minimum play. There is a "tapered gib" mod to address this, but it's a little complicated to make. I went with a different approach, which uses slide plates that are bolted directly on the carriage. Clearance is adjusted using shims. No additional holes need to be drilled in the saddle to do it, you just use the preexisting holes.

I used MDS-loaded nylon for the slide plates. It is easy to machine and, with the molybdenum disulfide, naturally slippery. Acetal/Derlin probably would be about as good, and are more readily available. I got my MDS loaded cast-nylon stock from McMaster-Carr.

But your Vevor lathe may not use the same system.

 

[Smithdoor]

I picked up this lathe originally to keep for spare parts but I thought that I can convert it to a horizontal mill as I have no milling capacity.
I got it all put together and installed. The first test run was a mess a total chatter fest. I identified multiple issues that needed to be addressed. First off I removed the compound slide and mounted the vertical slide directly to the carrage and installed a proper carrage lock. The mounting tnuts for the vertical slide clamp failed due to poor design so I drilled and taped the vertical slide and bolted the clamp to the slide. I had no way to accurately set the depth of cut. I just guessed at it and you know how well that worked. I installed a poor man's DRO and that took care of that issue. Now I can touch off and dial in the depth I want. I checked the accuracy and to my surprise it was nearly perfect. Close enough for me. The second test run was almost perfect.
I still am getting a little chatter from the vertical slide when it's near the top of its travel. I think adding two more gib adjusters may cure that?? I know there is a lot more that I can do down the road if need be. As of now I have less than 200 invested. It's nice to have a little milling capacity.

Looks nice.
Any more photos?

Dave

 

[steelcat]

Some of your chatter may be due to loose fitting carriage slide plates. If the slide plate setup is similar to the Sieg family of mini lathes, they are adjusted using a jackscrew system, which is pretty fiddly to adjust for minimum play. There is a "tapered gib" mod to address this, but it's a little complicated to make. I went with a different approach, which uses slide plates that are bolted directly on the carriage. Clearance is adjusted using shims. No additional holes need to be drilled in the saddle to do it, you just use the preexisting holes.

I used MDS-loaded nylon for the slide plates. It is easy to machine and, with the molybdenum disulfide, naturally slippery. Acetal/Derlin probably would be about as good, and are more readily available. I got my MDS loaded cast-nylon stock from McMaster-Carr.

But your Vevor lathe may not use the same system.

If I understand you right the vevor has cast iron slide plates with four m10 adjustment bolts. The carrage is tight. I did readjust them. I am fairly confident that the chatter is from the vertical slide. I will take another look at the carrage. Ain't molly great!

 

[steelcat]

Looks nice.
Any more photos?

Dave

Here's more

 

[ttabbal]

Well, it's no Bridgeport, but it's getting the job done. I think I'd switch the chuck out for a tapered end mill holder though. It'll give you a couple inches of travel, and hold the end mill better. Same reason we don't like to hold end mills in a drill chuck, they tend to want to pull out. Looks like it's an MT3, which is very common, so you should be able to find most anything you would want to spin around to fit in there. Make sure to set up a drawbar though.

 

[SouthernChap]

Another alternative to MT3 end mill holder might to use an ER collet chuck (32 or 40).

You.might be interested in this video:

 

[steelcat]

Well, it's no Bridgeport, but it's getting the job done. I think I'd switch the chuck out for a tapered end mill holder though. It'll give you a couple inches of travel, and hold the end mill better. Same reason we don't like to hold end mills in a drill chuck, they tend to want to pull out. Looks like it's an MT3, which is very common, so you should be able to find most anything you would want to spin around to fit in there. Make sure to set up a drawbar though.

I understand that a three jawed lathe chuck is not ideal to use as a mill holder.
At this point I don't really know enough about milling
To make a educated decision on what I need.
I will be researching this upgrade because I know I have options.
Oh by the way what is a draw bar?
Thanks

 

[steelcat]

Another alternative to MT3 end mill holder might to use an ER collet chuck (32 or 40).

You.might be interested in this video:

That's exactly what I have been looking at but I don't know what's best for my needs.

 

[markba633csi]

A drawbar passes thru the spindle and fastens collets. It's usually threaded on both ends. Some collet systems don't use a drawbar,
such as spindle nose-mounted collet chucks for ER collets