Using my Doall ML

The ball bearing is to take cutting forces, not to guide the blade; back off the chevron guides and adjust the upper wheel tilt so that the blade does not run against the ball bearings, with the saw stopped, adjust the chevron guides so that they barely touch the blade, then readjust the upper wheel tilt so the blade barely touches the FACE of the ball bearings while running.
 
I think I found it behind the wheel, the outside 3/4" bolt is non compliant with loosening. I'm going to look it up online to make sure I don't mess it up. Thank you
 
This is what I'm looking at, the center wheel adjustment is for tilting the wheel to move the blade in, and out? The one behind the wheel is the one I think will move the wheel away from the bearing?

 
It would be an unusual vertical band saw to run a 1" blade, unless powered feed like a Marvel. Here's a Tilt Frame Tannewitz, manually fed Patternmaker. Table is normal work height; once the machine is mounted in corresponding pit, occupied by lower wheel and space for tilt to
operate. It was equipped with various guides, depending on blade width. Prior owner US Navy, installed at Naval Shipyard Long Beach.
Tannewitz_Tilt_Frame.jpg
 
Aukai said:
I found the problem, the PO has a 1" blade running with 1/2" guide blocks.
Click to expand...
Aukai said:
This is what I'm looking at, the center wheel adjustment is for tilting the wheel to move the blade in, and out? The one behind the wheel is the one I think will move the wheel away from the bearing?

the
Click to expand...
The center knob adjusts the wheel plane for blade tracking of the wheels. The inner knob is a jamb nut. If you loosen the blade a lot, you can grab the bottom of the upper wheel and pull it towards you. The upper wheel swings on a bracket that pivots with the axis above the wheel center. The center knob is basically a bolt that bears on the surface of the detail that rides the two vertical rods that the blade tensioner rides on.

Bruce
 
I have a new issue with my saw, it quit. I just finished a cut, and the motor stopped. There was no obvious smoke, but a faint hint that the Genie may have left the building. I have 206v from the RPC, I can hear the contacts clicking in the start stop box, and pressing the reset button does nothing. I do not know enough to check any farther, and will get the electrician to get into the motor wiring. Doall lists a replacement at 1K less shipping, any other options? For this saw is there an advantage to staying with 3ph over single if I need to replace?
 
Just to update the result was the reset button popped, and would not re latch fuses were put inline, and the saw runs again.
 
When my saw came to me from the previous owner I had no experience with a vertical bandsaw. When it first came the PO had a 1" blade running, so I ordered another couple of blades. During use I noticed something odd, the blade had a curve in it, the blade was running on the side of the back bearing. I investigated, and found that he was running a 1" blade through 1/2" guides. Well a year later at an investment type pricing I got both upper, and lower 1" guides, and blocks. I was running a smaller blade while I waited, so now it's tracking, and spaced from the back bearing.

Another issue I was having was the speed shives were walking off the end of the of the bushed bar. I lined up the "vanes" with the belts off, and dimpled the bar for the set screw to register, I'll have to see how that works out.
 
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