Tormach Quality?

Everything made it down safely.
Took a long weekend to get it done now I am so sore I can barely move.
Assembly in final shop location with enclosure next task.
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A friend of mine has an 1100 with the enclosure, I think you will really like it! Thanks for posting all the pictures.

Kevin
 
While doing 1000 other tasks last night I decided to unbox the 5" Tormach vise and took a quick look. Seems very nice. One thing I noticed was the CNC machined handle. Pretty cool. My Kurt handle looks like is cast. One thing I did notice was the thin metal plate used to keep chips off the screw was loose and would protrude out the back as the movable jaw was closed. The whole thing was covered in storage oil and I wasnt in the mood to wipe it all down and investigate further. Is this common?
 
Everything made it down safely.
Took a long weekend to get it done now I am so sore I can barely move.
Assembly in final shop location with enclosure next task.

View attachment 103795
View attachment 103796
I'm curious what you did as the pallet reached the stairs. Did it have to slide part way down those planks on the steps, or were you able move the trolly for the chain hoist and keep it level?

Great photos! Thanks for sharing.

Cal
 
Hard to describe clearly but Plan A was two 2x8 planks laid on top of the stair treads, spaced on center with the dolly casters. The back wheels were to touch first and then as mill was lowered, i knew it would tilt backwards and roll down sort of popping a wheelie ending up almost 45 deg. This would have been fine (Did my BP main casting the same way no prob) once the back wheels made land at the bottom, was going to c-clamp and block the wheels while letting more chain out. This motion would take a bit of grunt to coax it fwd until it was "over center" Well plan worked great until halfway down we realized the Z stepper was going to hit the crane cross bar going down. Plan B was I quick removed the motor but still no love. Too tall to clear. The only option short of completely bailing on the attempt was Plan C to forget trying to roll the wheels on the plank but rather straddle the wheels over one 2x8 and slide the back end of the wood dolly down the wood plank. It worked albeit with great difficulty because the casters would still catch on the crest of each tread and i had to pry with a long 2x4 to get the whole affair to ride over the "humps" then slide 6" to the next tread. Repeat 6x until landfall then heaved it over center onto all 4 wheels.
Not pretty or elegant but its done. Remind me not to move any time soon or it may come complete with a machine shop
 
Hard to describe clearly but Plan A was two 2x8 planks laid on top of the stair treads, spaced on center with the dolly casters. The back wheels were to touch first and then as mill was lowered, i knew it would tilt backwards and roll down sort of popping a wheelie ending up almost 45 deg. This would have been fine (Did my BP main casting the same way no prob) once the back wheels made land at the bottom, was going to c-clamp and block the wheels while letting more chain out. This motion would take a bit of grunt to coax it fwd until it was "over center" Well plan worked great until halfway down we realized the Z stepper was going to hit the crane cross bar going down. Plan B was I quick removed the motor but still no love. Too tall to clear. The only option short of completely bailing on the attempt was Plan C to forget trying to roll the wheels on the plank but rather straddle the wheels over one 2x8 and slide the back end of the wood dolly down the wood plank. It worked albeit with great difficulty because the casters would still catch on the crest of each tread and i had to pry with a long 2x4 to get the whole affair to ride over the "humps" then slide 6" to the next tread. Repeat 6x until landfall then heaved it over center onto all 4 wheels.
Not pretty or elegant but its done. Remind me not to move any time soon or it may come complete with a machine shop
Interesting. What if you had bolted the machine at the very front of the dolly, with as much dolly as possible sticking out the back? That way, the back of the dolly would cause the dolly to nose down as it settled on the planks, then winch it down the ramp with a come-along. You could also use a snatch block or a second chain hoist to pick up the back of the dolly, tilting it to the angle of the steps as you lower.

Another approach would have been to lay the machine on the dolly on its back.

Cal
 
While doing 1000 other tasks last night I decided to unbox the 5" Tormach vise ... One thing I did notice was the thin metal plate used to keep chips off the screw was loose and would protrude out the back as the movable jaw was closed.... Is this common?
Kurt vises are built exactly the same way (including protruding out the back). The sheet metal chip barrier can be slid out by hand.

Nice job getting that down the stairs. Not for the faint of heart!
 
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