The New South Bend 10K

THat Mori Seki is a very CHOICE lathe. I wish one would turn up close to me,and in great shape(and NOT painted blue with a brush!)
 
Well, so far I have had a chance to use a photo tach on the 10K machine I bought from Grizzly via E Bay. I took a look at the RPMs and compared it to the nifty little chart that clearly was wrong. This is what I have found. See chart. I would also add the motor seem to get warmer than expected when it was bogged down on the high gears and the capacitors did not sound "quite right" . The belt tension was adjusted as loose as it would go via. the cam on the inside of the idler shaft. The only way I could get it to turn full speed was to have no tension on the belt and apply tension a little at a time while keeping the motor rpm up. ( not exactly something one would want to do with a poly v belt system ) Needless to say, I suspect a motor / capacitor problem. And this is the kind of garbage Grizzly is dumping on unsuspecting consumers via E Bay? At this point, I could not Honestly even sell this machine for what I have tied up in it. If anyone has a constructive thought, feel free to enlighten me. I certainly never expected some thing like this from Shiraz at Grizzly.
 

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I should have been more clear on the belt tension. It appeared to be too tight. Obviously at some point it will require a 3 phase with a VFD control. Another expense I had not counted on. At least the vintage SB 10K had fairly accurate numbers. It seems ridiculous to me. You have a motor pulley, an idler pulley and a spindle pulley. Jr. High calculations. And they got almost all of them wrong????? It is almost enough to make me want to take a 5 hour drive one way. Just to compare and contrast a floor model. So that's it from me for a while. I just don't have the time to play with it for now. Best wishes.
 
Here is a thought: If you have a motor problem already, consider replacing it with a DC motor and speed control. This would be superior to the factory set up in a lot of ways anyway. There are several threads here on DC conversion. I think you can get this beast sorted out with a little effort.
R
 
Hey, I think I found your lathe auction:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SB1002-Sout...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

I didn't know they sold tent-sale items on Ebay!

The trouble with this kind of stuff is that it looks cheap at first, but when you need to buy a chuck, magnetic switch, etc then the costs mount up quickly. Then you get this:

NO PARTS

NO WARRANTY

NO RETURNS

Which makes the initial repairs kind of hurt. At this point, however, that's water-under-the-bridge. You can either cry in your Cheerios or just fix it. Luckily, the spindle is driven solely from stepped pulleys. You can't get any simpler than that as this lathe doesn't have back gears/cone pulley. You can make this lathe work correctly.

First you need to make sure you tachometer is working correctly. Some of the cheap ones don't like a fluorescent lights, so verify your equipment on a known RPM. Tach verified OK? Time to move on.

I'll assume your rpm data is correct in the chart you attached. The motor is shown at 1200 RPM which is correct, but all the other speeds are WAY TO HIGH! On the highest pulley speed (in low) you are getting 601 RPM. If you actually got high speed to work without binding the crap out of pulleys, the spindle speed would be 3300 RPM, when it's supposed to top-out at 1200 RPM. No wonder you're bogging the motor.

The chart isn't wrong, the chart has the speeds that you need and you need to make the lathe work at those speeds. Luckily, as you said, it's just Jr High calculations. Since the motor is spinning at the correct speed and everything else is fast, then either the step pulley on the motor is wrong, the pulley that it drives is wrong, or they both are wrong. Since this lathe was obviously some kind of test mule this isn't surprising. This would also explain the binding your describe in high: wrong pulley(s).

You paid extra for a lathe without a new fangled VFD or other electronic controller, so stick with the pulleys and make them work.

If it was me, I would carefully measure the diameter of each pulley step and then contact Grizzly and see if they can tell you which of the pulleys is wrong. Maybe you can shame them into a replacement. Having stuff missing is one thing, but totally wrong components is a bit much.
 
Yes. I have already contacted them. I will of course, fix it. I did measure all of the pulleys, which is where I got my ratios. I was just waiting until I could get some accurate numbers to re contact Grizzly Tech dept.. I compared the chart to theoretical to actual. Hopefully I will get the diameters of the pulleys on the newer versions from them and go from there.
I have bought and sold many tools over the years. Never had anything like this happen. So my fault for being a trusting idiot. Time will tell on this one. :)
 
Just an update on this contraption. Spoke with a gent named Mike at Grizzly. Turns out this was basically a prototype lathe, more of less.
Of course no one seem to know any thing about this lathe. None the less when the information I gathered was compared to the production model. Gee guess what? So he is sending me a new set of pulleys and belts to try. Then we will deal with the motor issue. The belts arrived and are indeed a different length than the ones currently on the lathe. Naturally, I will have to do all the work. So at least some one is trying to do the right thing. Maybe if I am really lucky they will send me the 5" chuck that didn't come with it for all this hassle.
 
The main draw back to the New SB 10 is no back gear and small hole
The high price is not good
The Mori Seki is a great lathe I had one for 30 years but I also 9A for small parts

Dave
 
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