The never-ending saga of the Hurco that's "ready to make parts"

Re: Code issue, please help. This stopped being fun a few days ago.

I actually thought of that when I had the motor out but the encoder on the X axis was different with a different mounting method. Wasn't sure what I was setting myself up for. I guess I should have bit the bullet. Maybe I'll check the Z axis one and see if it's the same.

Any chance un-grounded shielded cable from the box to the motor would cause this?
 
Re: Code issue, please help. This stopped being fun a few days ago.

ecdez said:
Any chance un-grounded shielded cable from the box to the motor would cause this?
Click to expand...

Not likely, but nothing is impossible. You do want only one end of the shielded cable grounded, never ground both ends, it can cause ground loops and induce electrical noise into the encoder circuit.

I don't remember if you tried it with the drive belt off, but you might give that a shot and see what happens. The only problem with this is that without moving the table the mass of the system is greatly reduced and therefore the motor won't react the same.

I am rapidly running out of ideas for field testing. The encoder needs to be checked out, and I'm not sure how to do that without a scope. You might be able to find a local motor shop that can check it. I would send the motor along also and let them check it. You might try these guys, their web site says they work on servo drives:

Peninsula Electric Motor, Inc.
Tel (757) 873-1273 - Fax (757) 873-3033
742 Bluecrab Road, Newport News, VA 23606
http://www.peninsulaelectricmotor.com/index.html

I am not ready to say that you have eliminated all of the possible failure modes, but you have to be getting close. The mechanicals have been pretty much eliminated as a possible source, the problem seems to stay with the y-axis even when swapping boards, so that leaves the motor, encoder, and the cables.
 
Re: Code issue, please help. This stopped being fun a few days ago.

I was halfway through changing the encoders when I got called in for dinner. I'm headed back out now so I should know something soon.
 
Re: Code issue, please help. This stopped being fun a few days ago.

Okey Dokey. Swapped out the encoder and no change.


Swapped the wires at the box (left them where they were on the motor) and now the problem is on the X axis. Since I swapped the boards and there was no change the only thing between the boards and the motor is the wiring. Other than grounding the shield on one end, anything else I should do while I'm at it?
 
Re: Code issue, please help. This stopped being fun a few days ago.

ecdez said:
Okey Dokey. Swapped out the encoder and no change.


Swapped the wires at the box (left them where they were on the motor) and now the problem is on the X axis. Since I swapped the boards and there was no change the only thing between the boards and the motor is the wiring. Other than grounding the shield on one end, anything else I should do while I'm at it?
Click to expand...

If I understand correctly, you connected the wires from the X motor and encoder to the Y board and the problem moved to the X motor. I am also assuming that the motors and encoders are mated in their original location. Is this correct?
 
Re: Code issue, please help. This stopped being fun a few days ago.

Not sure if I understand your question but I'll try to be clear on what I did.

Swapped out the boards; x and y - problem stayed on y (boards are still like this as I have not switched them back yet)
Swapped out encoders; y and z - problem stayed on y
Swapped connection at the cabinet; x and y (x axis follows y command on control and y axis follows x command) - problem moved to x



I'm over reaching my experience here but here's my theory based on your feedback and what I've seen.

Since the problem switched axis I think it's logical to rule out motor or encoder.
Since the problem did not switch axis when I swapped cards I think we can rule out the cards as the culprit.
Since the problem moved with the cable that seems the logical place to look next.



I simply could leave it alone and went back outside to check the cable. Turns out the cable is not shielded. I decided to take the cable completely off and check for shorts but something was itching at me to pull the cable wrap back and have a look inside. The end that was connected to the box was stuffed full of tiny splinter like shards of aluminum. Is it possible that some voltage is bridging the gap between terminals by means of the aluminum and the motor and encoder are constantly fighting to keep each other in line? I plan to clean it out tomorrow and give it another test run. Like you said we're running out of options. This seems to make sense but it may be my desperation talking.
 
Re: Code issue, please help. This stopped being fun a few days ago.

OK, now I understand what you did. You swapped the connections where they enter the cabinet. Sometimes you just have to draw a picture for me.

Your intuition and logic are perfect, I think you are correct. The ability to logically proceed through a troubleshooting process is a great skill to have.

The aluminum shards are very likely the problem if there is any way that they can bridge any connection. If there is a small short it could cause all kinds of strange problems. The real question is how did they get into a sealed box?
 
Re: Code issue, please help. This stopped being fun a few days ago.

JimDawson said:
The aluminum shards are very likely the problem if there is any way that they can bridge any connection. If there is a small short it could cause all kinds of strange problems. The real question is how did they get into a sealed box?
Click to expand...


I was wondering that myself. I will still clean them out but unfortunately, I don't think that's the problem. I woke up this morning thinking about it and realized that I swapped the wires at the cabinet plugs. This would be similar to swapping lamps in a wall outlet. If the problem changes lamps when you switch outlets, it's not the lamp (or the wire to the lamp) but rather the outlet. If the problem would have followed the lamp then the lamp or cable could be the culprit. Good news is I'm closing in on it. I need to check the cables between the card and the socket in the cabinet. Problem seems to be in there somewhere. Those are shielded cables but I suspect the problem is less sinister. Maybe a frayed cable, loose connection or something coming loose. Not sure, but I'll be checking it out later tonight. I finally feel like it may be solvable if I can just locate it.
 
Re: Code issue, please help. This stopped being fun a few days ago.

Great job chasing down a ghost. I would have lost my mind and given up on it by now. But you have soldiered on and it looks like you finally have it figured out maybe!!!! Good luck and hope that solves you issues.

Bob
 
Re: Code issue, please help. This stopped being fun a few days ago.

You guys won't believe this!!

Looks like the problem is fixed. Not sure what did the trick but I don't even care. Here's what I did;

1. Cleaned out the cable that was packed with shards
2. Pulled out every card and inspected it for damage (found none) - in the process of pulling the cards I had to unplug every ribbon and plug (possibly fixing a weak connection in the process)
3. Cut at least a dozen cable ties that looked overly tight
4. I also found and removed a screw tip that had fallen into the bottom of the cabinet on top of one of the main cards. The card had a coating and didn't look like it was making any electrical contact but I don't know if the tip was magnetized or not. I couldn't detect any but I might have been minute.





Now for the part you won't believe.
The USB port on the drip feeder stopped working and I'm back to a code issue :panic:. The code issue is in Cam Bam though so not really a machine issue. All arcs are generated with 0.0 as the value for I and J. Works for Mach but not for my Hurco post. I don't think I changed anything but who knows, I'll sort it out.



The final verdict is in...... I should have just bought the Tormach :thinking:. Regardless, it's done now so no use over thinking it. I am starting to think I will be chasing problems with 30 years electronics for rest of eternity and am starting to think about a retrofit. Not really the path I wanted but I'm here now. There's a few threads on other websites where guys have done it successfully using the stock motors [which would reduce the cost], Gecko drivers, a breakout board and a stripped out old computer. I'm not ready to throw the towel in yet but I'm not far from it.

Thanks to everyone for their help so far and especially Jim for sticking with me so try and sort this out.


I'm gonna leave it alone for a few days to clear my head. Not really good to work on it or make decisions when I'm frustrated.
 
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