Surface Grinder - what's an idiot to do?

DustinY

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So, i'll start this off by clarifying, i'm the idiot, LOL. Incase that wasn't obvious, allow me to explain:

Yesterday i took a 20 hour road trip to California to pick up what i thought to be the surface grinder to fix my problems. Spoiler alert: when i got there i realized just how in over my head i was, and walked away empty handed (I'll explain a little more in depth in a minute). I'm a knifemaker, looking to install a more permanent solution to grinding things flat(ish) and true, compared to my current setup. It something that a lot of people in this field end up resolving the way i did - a 2x72 belt grinder attachment that has a built in sine table to be able to grind accurate tapers. While the attachment works beyond well enough for what i use, there are more than a couple problems that make this system terrible.

First, the current chuck is like 2x12, which isn't enough width for what i like to make. Currently a lot of the projects in the shop are knives that are wider than 2", and i struggle to find a way to adequately compensate for this. It seems though the conventional stand alone units would pose the opposite issue - length. I think the perfect medium for me would be something like 6x18. This would allow me to continue to make full tang kitchen knives, but transition into folding knives later and parts that really need to accurately flat and true. Second, the chuck is always magnetized, so getting anything on or off it (especially if you go for a good surface finish) is a nightmare. The magnet picks up dust and particles, and it makes cleaning between each step a must, which leads to a really cumbersome process. Third, is rigidity. The system seems to move more than what i like, and feels to be really stressing everything to the limit (this might be a feels over reals thing for me, but what can i say). Overall though, it's worked till now and i can get a 8 inch part within .02" of each other (which for full tang knife making, is fine, but folders and precision work i'm LIGHTYEARS away).

Back to the trip yesterday, i found a unit on EBay that i thought looked promising, it was priced super high (which i correlated with a good condition unit), and shot the owner a message. He provided some videos of each of the components working, and it under power, and we agreed to meet up. In the meantime, i was researching (not very well) on what to look at to determine if it was worth the coin. The seller slashed the unit price almost in half, which made it super enticing, and prompted me to make the trip. I didn't have anyone local to consult, and a majority of the people in my field, don't buy these stand alone units, so it was hard to find someone with advice. This forum was useful in trying to figure out how to vet the machine, but upon arrival i knew i didn't bring enough tooling, nor did i really know scientifically how to determine what was a good buy. While looking for things that i should be reviewing before purchasing, i found a company that rebuilds spindles, and makes balancing stands for the wheels (as well as balancing hubs), so i wasn't concerned with the fact that the machine didn't come with those components.

Harig 6x18 with a walker chuck was the unit i was looking at, it had hydraulics to run power feeds both directions and the owner assured me of some of the hoses they replaced to make everything work. The limit switches and speed toggles all worked, as well as the cooling pumps, but the first thing i looked at were the ways. They looked, well worn, with large gouges in them, which was the first alarm. After noticing that, i put the machine in manual mode and checked backlash. The left to right feed of the table was INCREDIBLY tight, and it got even tighter in some areas - which i think means it was less worn in those areas, but this didn't make me confident as it seemed like it would be hard to do anything manually with this machine. All the adjustments were tight to be honest, but nothing like the left to right. The second alarm was the wheel look to be oscillating pretty hard under power, this could have been an illusion, or a wheel that needed to be dressed, but i was concerned about spindle bearings, and didn't bring a dial / base (because i don't own them, time to fix that) to inspect it. After that, i decided i wasn't going to pay premium coin for something that could be garbage, and i'd come here and seek more help. I've been browsing the forums, but i'm not finding any specifics of what i should be doing / looking for. If you have reference material i could review, or a post you found helpful, i'd love to enlighten myself. This won't be the only machine i plan to purchase, as a mill will be in the near future (bonus time makes for new tools :) ).

The questions i have are as follows: besides getting a machinist buddy to come (do they have a machinist mingle yet? LOL) with me and do the inspecting on some of these older machines that get posted on craigslist and ebay, what are things i can look for?

Grizzly has a unit that is 8x20 for 5500$? That seems like a decent price, and if new is the way to go, what do you think about that option? All opinions are welcome, thank you for coming to my ted talk.
 
I would not advise anyone to go with a machine with gouged up ways, but the resistance longways when hand traversing could have been due to hydraulic causes. Grinders do not have gibs to cause tight and loose situations, the tables usually just sit on vee ways or vee and flat ways and are held down strictly by gravity.
 
I would not advise anyone to go with a machine with gouged up ways, but the resistance longways when hand traversing could have been due to hydraulic causes. Grinders do not have gibs to cause tight and loose situations, the tables usually just sit on vee ways or vee and flat ways and are held down strictly by gravity.

I might have messed up, the scratching was pretty intense, but maybe I was harsh with saying gouged. The tightness really did scare me, but seems that might have been an incorrect assessment. It did have V's, where I expected it to have ways ( I think alec steele got one that had scrapped ways and you could see the factory scraping (so I was surprised to see a v ).

The more you know, thanks for the information boss.
 
I got the surface grinder bug for a while and followed several very informative threads here on H-M. It really paid off as I would have probably gone with the manual Chevalier 618 I went and looked at if I’d not been prepped so well by the folks here. Buying a used machine tool is hard enough but something so specialized and critical as a surface grinder is not what a noob doing a random purchase from someone they don’t know might not want to go that way. There are so many considerations that only a grinder hand would be able to judge. The Chevalier was in seemingly good condition, had a stack of different wheels, spare hubs, balancing fixture, specialized profiling fixture etc. I was assured it was not hardly used, but my first concern was all the powder coat was worn off the control wheels. Then we pulled the table and the ways were scored and worn. So I left. The guy thought I was a grinder hand but having a mechanic background and the things to inspect from the threads here was all I had.
I ended up deciding I didn’t have the overriding need for a surface grinder and moved on. YMMV.
 
Are you positive it was gouges and not intentional scraping? Also agree that the resistance traversing the table would be the hydraulic cylinder. I would not spend 5500 on a grizzly surface grinder. For 5k you could get yourself a real surface grinder, auto feeds, coolant, vac system, and tooling. As for your belt sander attachment and the magnets you could put bags over the mags and pull them off to clean the mags. Or if you want fancy ones that turn on and off get electric door latches/locks, They are plenty powerful.
 
I got the surface grinder bug for a while and followed several very informative threads here on H-M. It really paid off as I would have probably gone with the manual Chevalier 618 I went and looked at if I’d not been prepped so well by the folks here. Buying a used machine tool is hard enough but something so specialized and critical as a surface grinder is not what a noob doing a random purchase from someone they don’t know might not want to go that way. There are so many considerations that only a grinder hand would be able to judge. The Chevalier was in seemingly good condition, had a stack of different wheels, spare hubs, balancing fixture, specialized profiling fixture etc. I was assured it was not hardly used, but my first concern was all the powder coat was worn off the control wheels. Then we pulled the table and the ways were scored and worn. So I left. The guy thought I was a grinder hand but having a mechanic background and the things to inspect from the threads here was all I had.
I ended up deciding I didn’t have the overriding need for a surface grinder and moved on. YMMV.


Table was in good shape and i'm under the impression that even that can be trued up. I'm just dying for one, flatness means everything (at least for the way I set up things currently). I think where it's really stemming from, is my desire to replace my current setup that is a real pain (and useless in some cases).

Any useful search words or phrases that you can share? Everything i'm finding is asking about specific models - which i'm not brand loyal ;)
 
Are you positive it was gouges and not intentional scraping? Also agree that the resistance traversing the table would be the hydraulic cylinder. I would not spend 5500 on a grizzly surface grinder. For 5k you could get yourself a real surface grinder, auto feeds, coolant, vac system, and tooling. As for your belt sander attachment and the magnets you could put bags over the mags and pull them off to clean the mags. Or if you want fancy ones that turn on and off get electric door latches/locks, They are plenty powerful.

It could have been maybe, it didn't look very even though, maybe i'm wrong though. I felt instantly over my head and was panicking about everything I perceived to be finding. 3000 was a lot to spend on something I wasn't sure about.
 
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I paid $1000 for a Parker Majestic grinder. Admittedly I got a deal but they can be found.
I detailed the refurb here: https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/parker-majestic-refurb.2675/
In the thread you can see detailed shots of the ways. The machine is from 1965 and was used in a production tool and die shop.

What a thread, loved the read. Also, those results at the end, TO DIE FOR. I think I should just find someone that might be able to advise me, and take with me. I'll start machinist mingle right now LOL
 
Are there not a few high(er) end belt grinders with decent surface grinding attachments for blade smiths?


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