South Bend 9A restoration happening w/pics!!

Why are you so concerned about the runout of this chuck? Even a new one, the best will be ~ .003 which isn't good enough to re-chuck work.

If you need the accuracy, maybe consider a MT3 collet chuck (or make your own to screw on) and a set of ER25, 32 or 40 collets
 
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Yep, my experience also. .003” runout in a three jaw is about what all of them do.

I had a similar experience replacing a stack of shims and having the spindle lock up. Two things will cause this: torquing down the headstock bolts/screws to much, thus pinching the bearing into the headstock. Or,,,Replacing shims with to thick a stack- again, forcing the bearing and bearing cap against the spindle.

The best solution is to yep, go buy some more shim stock- a package with multiple thicknesses is what you need. Then select the right set of thicknesses to shim to your ideal .001” clearance.

In your case, you’ve got the tolerance of the spindle down to .002” more or less. So ideally, take a 002” shim out of the stack, and replace it with a .001” shim. Thus you shrink the shim thickness to .001”, and still have a free spinning spindle. Ideal!

It’s maddening, I know. But worth doing in the long run. Once it’s set, it’s set!

Glenn
 
Why does the spindle seize up when I have .0015" clearance? Maybe my "cheapo" dial gage isn't doing it's job in accuracy.
 
Why are you so concerned about the runout of this chuck? Even a new one, the best will be ~ .003 which isn't good enough to re-chuck work.

If I chuck up a round rod the runout is .013" and you can actually see it turning out of round. That's a lot! Collets and a bar are going to be very expensive. Can chuck jaws be ground by using a Dremel by making up some sort of mounting for it? I just answered my own question. I checked out YouBoob and some are doing just that.
 
Why does the spindle seize up when I have .0015" clearance? Maybe my "cheapo" dial gage isn't doing it's job in accuracy.
Are you sure that your shims aren't being forced into the spindle? And I'm willing to bet that you DON'T have 0.0015" clearance. How can you have any clearance when the spindle is locked?
 
Are you sure that your shims aren't being forced into the spindle? And I'm willing to bet that you DON'T have 0.0015" clearance. How can you have any clearance when the spindle is locked?

I had also thought about that and didn't push them all the way in. I'm really suspecting that my Chinese dial gage isn't doing correct reading! I'm going to get another gage from somewhere and give that a try. Could .0005" really make that much difference?
 
Down in one of my drawers I found this Starrett gage that I forgot I had and never used before. I am now reading .0005 - .001" on the spindle nose!
 

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My Chinese dial gage says accurate to +/- .003. Could have been my problem all along. Here's the Dremel setup I made to try and grind the jaws. Putting 1" OD bearing to use as a tightening spacer on backside of jaws. Had to order some Dremel stones to use.
 

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My 80T gear came in and I replaced it for the old one. Runs pretty quiet now and is no longer the thrashing machine of when I first got it. rs;I had ordered some indexable carbide tool bits and it seems to really cut nice now. I would like to find out the part number for 1/4" and 5/16" carbide inserts that have a more rounded profile. The ones that came with the two different sets I bought are very pointed. Anyone have a suggestion for me? Still waiting on my Dremel grinding stones to see what I can do for the chuck jaws. I'm starting to feel like I can see the light at the end of the tunnel to have a good running/cutting lathe. Everything is coming together now and maybe I can start a project or two in the near future.
:aok:
 
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I was browsing eBay and found a compound assembly with a "new" screw for $79 for the pair. It was just too good a deal to pass up! Mine has soo much slop in it so I decided to buy it.
 

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