South Bend 9A restoration happening w/pics!!

Last year I bought a package of various thickness brass shim stock on line for like $25 bucks. 8 or 10 sheets, each 3”x6” long, from .020” down to .001” thickness. Ridiculously inexpensive. And more than you ever use.
 
Last year I bought a package of various thickness brass shim stock on line for like $25 bucks. 8 or 10 sheets, each 3”x6” long, from .020” down to .001” thickness. Ridiculously inexpensive. And more than you ever use.
I have lots of shim stock. 2 rolls, two sizes. I don't have ball mic but think they are .002 and .004"

Are there any votes for thinking I need new chuck? I would guess that .0025 at spindle nose will be notices also in the chuck so I guess I'll have to do the spindle bearing shims a little closer. "Dannnnnnng!"
 

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I would get the spindle bearing clearance and deflection in spec before considering a new chuck. Then test the chuck's runout at various diameters. As I said b4 the runout is not an issue unless you need to 'RE-CHUCK' the work. I find 90%+ of the time I can make the part in a single chucking. You can always use a 4-jaw to dial it in perfectly, plus the 4-jaw has many other uses. I would buy a 4-jaw b4 replacing your chuck.
 
I agree with @martik777. Hold off on the chuck till you get the spindle dialled in.
Then chuck a piece of drill rod and check runout.
If it was me and the chuck is way out then I’d make an alignment mark on the chuck and backplate, unbolt and rotate the back plate 90 degrees, bolt it up again and check runout.
If you get within.003 -.005 you’re done.



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Is there any Jsw a20200211_212218.jpgdjustment in this type of Chuck?
 
Not to my knowledge.


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Cut more shims, installed and is now .0015" but the spindle is now seized. (???) I can no longer turn it by hand. Before I had .053" in shims and now I have .051" in shims.
 
I just put the old shims back in and .0025" is best I can do.
 
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