South Bend 9... newbie... help!

sorry for the delay on the pics... school and life is kicking my butt..
the cross slide moves.. meaning it can be shifted forwards and backwards.. a significant amount.. I think that is what was screwing up my threads..
I was using a carbide tipped brand new threading tool and they looked like crap.. so I figured out something was moving.. I dont know for certain the cross slide moves
while the lathe chuck turns but with minor pressure the base that the cross slide and compound sit on moves..do I need to take it apart and check the cross slide screw? there is a gap between the dial
and the handle that you turn to adjust your tool in or out..
 
MikeManz said:
sorry for the delay on the pics... school and life is kicking my butt..
the cross slide moves.. meaning it can be shifted forwards and backwards.. a significant amount.. I think that is what was screwing up my threads..
I was using a carbide tipped brand new threading tool and they looked like crap.. so I figured out something was moving.. I dont know for certain the cross slide moves
while the lathe chuck turns but with minor pressure the base that the cross slide and compound sit on moves..do I need to take it apart and check the cross slide screw? there is a gap between the dial
and the handle that you turn to adjust your tool in or out..
Click to expand...

I had to replace my nut and replaced the screw too ....the bronze nut was worn out,the screw worn ... It's not hard to take apart to inspect.I had a lot and I mean a lot of backlash before the repair and then it failed completely when about half-way ....where it spent most of it's time....It was not hard to repair and there is almost 0 backlash ...I was able to tighten that (dial gap .022) gap with the repair.....there are some photos on cross feed not eating thread and that should give you an idea of the scope
 
anywhere you might see images of one being taken apart? or is it easier than I image and I just need to go for it?
Im sure if I had a manual...i just have 10 other things requiring $$ at the moment.
 
THE PM board has several long, detailed threads on SB9 restorations
 
Doesn't really matter how much backlash you have, once you take up the slack, it should cut without moving back unless your threads are totally thrashed. I have about .020 slop in my crossfeed, measured by placing an indicator on the back end and shifting the cross slide back and forth. You can make a new acetal nut for next to nothing , google "acetal crossfeed nut"
 
The single tumbler system is made up of three parts. In order to get full use you need to use all three. When you look at the brass face plate you will notice that on the left side it will read left, center and right. This is for the top lever on the gear box. With the arm all the way to the right it will be at its slowest range. All the way to the left will be the fastest. I have found that it is easiest to engage while the lathe is running, but the clutch is disengaged. Others may disagree. There is no grind it just moves better when turning.

You will also notice that the brass plate is broken into two sections. These sections are related to the sliding gear that you see on the end in the gear cover, Never try to move this while the lathe is running. That would be instant destruction. You will note on the gearbox plate that there is an in and an out. In is at a slower rate than when you pull it out.

As already indicated in other posts This is an early lathe. My heavy 10 is of 1942 and has the single tumbler.

These old lathe will cut just as many threads as the two tumbler units. I think you have 48 different settings.

By the way I bought a copy of Southbend's "How to Run a Lathe" from the Vermont Precision Museum for $7.00. I bought it maybe 8 years ago and it is a 1942 version.


Hope this helps.


Paul
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top