South Bend 9... newbie... help!

[MikeManz]

Im a new member and was giving a south bend 9 in trade for some things..
anyways it had a 1/3 hp motor that worked for like two days then it crapped out.. when it ran for a few days..
it seemed very weak and I had to get the chuck started with my hand to give it momentum.. I just put a 3/4 hp motor in it
and now it cooks!!! but I dont know how to get it to a lower speed..?
I know how to run a normal lathe...meaning a modern one.. but there are obviously some nuances that i havent figured out yet..
I cant seem to find a manual for it.. online.. Unless I buy one.. and I just spent $200 on a motor.. and $200 on a new tool post..
$30-$50 more for a manual is not gonna happen.. Im a machining student and I can't get enough of making things and working on manual machines.
so Im quite happy to have this baby.. I just want to get her running correctly so I can continue projects at home that I can't do at school..
obviously I am limited by size.. but i still have a lathe... and that is nice..
can anyone help me with changing speeds? do I need to change gears ? I know how to move the belt over . I know how to move the chuck to
make the head stock handle thing move to the thread setting I want to cut..
I'll say this before the 3/4 hp motor was installed I could only cut threads 32tpi - when I went to the other ones the lead screw would not turn
and I thought maybe since the lathe seemed underpowered that it might be why? Im sure you guys are reading this going "he's way off"
if I am please let me know.. thanks in advance for any help you guys can give me..
Not sure how to make pics thumbnails..? but I have several pics of the lathe..

 

[pjf134]

Mike,
I am not too familar with the single tumbler gear box type, but on the two tumbler gear box I use a 1/2 HP motor with a 1725 rpm motor. A faster rpm motor will burn out the bearings as it was not made for the faster speeds. Make sure everything is getting oil before running it too much. Some guys on here will chime in I am sure to give some more insite on these older type lathes. When a lathe sits too long the felts gum up and does not allow oil to get thru, so if you want it too lasr be sure everything is working good before using. What most people do when getting a old lathe is tear it down and replace the felts at least and check everything else while at it. Some people on here have this type of lathe and will give some more advice, so ask questions and get used to the lathe and controls before getting too involved.
Paul

 

[MikeManz]

its not too late for me to switch to a 1/2hp motor.. I was under the impression that 3/4 was ok.. but I just hooked it up today to test... it.
the motor is a single phase.. 1725rpm motor.. from tractor supply.. think i should go back and exchange it for the 1/2 they had? i have oiled the crap out of it..
but I dont know what you mean by the felts? is that where the oil container things have a little felt thing that "bleeds" the oil to the appropriate parts.?

- - - Updated - - -

i know what speeds and feeds to run different metal at... most.. not all but my question was how do I get the spindle speeds to change on this..

the 3/4hp motor on it now.. is 1725rpm motor... the 1/3hp motor on it that isnt working was 1725 rpm motor as well.. but the 3/4 hp motor has capacitator start which makes a big difference in my opinion..
anyways...
we have acra lathes at school and those are a breeze to run and change gears and etc.. but Im not seeing much on how to change the spindle speeds on this one..

 

[pjf134]

Mike,

---

The motor should be ok at 1725, but anything faster would not is what I was getting at. Look at Tubal Cain youtube videos to get more info on running a lathe. He demos different types so just pick South Bend ones. At most oil ports there is felts that absorb oil and release just a little at a time or else it would just run out. The top oilers on the headstock will leak oil faster and this is normal for that type, so make sure it gets oil often as it its considered a drip oiler type. The videos will answer some of your questions.
Paul

 

[MikeManz]

Mike,

---

The motor should be ok at 1725, but anything faster would not is what I was getting at. Look at Tubal Cain youtube videos to get more info on running a lathe. He demos different types so just pick South Bend ones. At most oil ports there is felts that absorb oil and release just a little at a time or else it would just run out. The top oilers on the headstock will leak oil faster and this is normal for that type, so make sure it gets oil often as it its considered a drip oiler type.
Paul

thank you....it means a lot... the lathe seems in really nice condition.. I just want to keep it running smoothly and use it to its fullest..

 

[ScrapMetal]

Look for "How to Ru(i)n a Lathe" by South Bend Lathe Works on ebay or Amazon used books, It should be available for about $10 and is the Bible for beginners. Didn't change much in 50 years. Great info not available anywhere else in such compact form. Have fun, break things, make things, don't worry about making a mistake. Anybody who has run a lathe has made mistakes. It's like golf, the good ones learn how to get out of trouble. Try to learn appropriate speeds for different materials by reading and by trying. It's not rocket science witness the people in the business. CNC machining, ah, that's a whole new ballgame!!!

"How to Run a Lathe" is available on this sites downloads section or I have a copy on one of my servers for download: http://www.arcaneiron.com/shovelhead/HowtoRunaLathe.pdf It's a big file, about 155M but depending on your connection could go fairly quickly.

This book is almost a "must" for someone getting in to working with a lathe.

It will definitely help you with some of your questions,

Hope that helps,

-Ron

 

[martik777]

They are also here, only 9mb: http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendmanual/files/ The yahoo group "southbendlathe" is a good source of info too.

1/3HP should be plenty, my original 1945 9A motor is only 1/4 and works just fine. You should not have to give your chuck a spin to get started - How easily does it spin by hand in neutral? It should turn freely 1 or 2 revs.

If you are trying to save money, $200 is way too much for a common 1725rpm motor which can be had for $20 used. If that 1/3hp motor had the instant reverse I'd try to fix it, may just need a start cap.

 

[GK1918]

As everyone said your new motor is fine. Next you can get rid of that tin cover thats ???. Looking at the belt on the pulleys; on the left is the highest speed, the center is medium speed and the right is the lowest normal speed. It all depends what you are doing, but for the most part use the right lowest
belt pulley. Then there are three more even lower speeds using the back gear. You have to disengauge the headstock / Chuck by pulling a pin behind the chuck - rotate the chuck until you find it then pull it out, now see it the chuck free wheels, if so behind the headstock (Main shaft) you should see
the back gears, somewhere there should be a lever to engage it- sometimes you have to rock drive belt to mesh the gears. Start it and now the chuck is
turning real slow, and moving the main drive belt gives the three speeds. Dont forget when using back gears you have increased torque, hp, and all the
above to break something (some trucks have double low gears). Later on you will be using back gears for threading. Some things happen quickly so, you have to slow things down. I hope this is the answer to you questions, but like automobiles and lathes are all the same they have the same controls
just maybe in a different place. From the picture I cant see any of the belt with that mouse tin protector in the way. can you see my belts? Its unclear your question about threading, thats another ballgame. Threading; the gearing in the apron must be in neutral and using the half nut in conjunction with the chart and thread dial for threads you want to cut.

 

[woodtickgreg]

A few things I might add is do not change gears while under power, shut it off and rotate by hand to change gears or speeds etc. Fill all the oil cups daily with the appropriate oil. The motor you purchased will work just fine. Spending money with a lathe? What a surprise, LOL. We all do it, it's just part of it it seems. if your patient and frugal deals on parts and tooling can be had. search ebay too. As the others have said, playing with it is a good way to learn it. Down load that how to run a lathe book or just buy one, either way get it. Start saving money for your new addiction, your gonna need it. LOL
P.S. That's a good little lathe, once you get her tuned up and dialed in, and you figure out how she works, it will serve you well. Welcome to the club.

 

[rafe]

Ah the high cost of knowledge (or lack of) is not measured in dollars. I learned everything i could on basic operation before powering up my lathes then continued to learn as I went along...the back-gear procedures, lubrication, I got the "how to run a lathe" I also got the rebuild manual on the big 14 1/2 SB ....not only is it a good read, it will pay for itself on the crossfeed repair I'm doing right now ...actually it already has ...and I read any and everything I can on them, There is so much available on the net, Videos too
the lathe you have is a great lathe, but parts are pricey and a bad procedure on your part could easily break parts or worse...avoiding that will pay for the books ...just a good investment and resale item.Did i mention lubrication?? Drain out and flush out the old oil in the head stock and apron if it hasn't been done and replenish with the proper lubricants there is no knowing what is in there and ...it's probably pretty nasty by now....I'd get a new set of felts for it too....especially if it's black sludge when you drain it
feel the bearing areas on the headstock after operating. They should remain relatively cool...that lathe if properly maintained will out live you, Good luck and Regards

PS asking here and on other South Bend sites will definately bring you up to speed on your old Southy