Some general lathe questions and some specific ones on a Clausing 5914 lathe

[machPete99]

Gates are usually good belts. I don't have the vari (reeves) drive anymore so cannot comment on belt requirements:

Clausing 5914 VFD

I did this a while back, but figured I'd post the info for others that might be interested. This setup completely replaces the original Reeves drive and countershaft arrangement. The motor is the original Doerr 2HP 3PH unit. I am using the stock cogged belt size/length, but have fitted the...

www.hobby-machinist.com

 

[mmcmdl]

I may have an extra stop for the 5900 series , gotta look around . I opted for a travel dial instead of a DRO .

 

[Alcap]

Mine came with some kind of a rotary style stop Maybe I can add an indicator like you have Would someone use measuring rods between the stops and carriage? I bought some tools from my wife’s uncle and there were 1/4” rods 6-11” which I thought were mic standards but he said something about measuring rods and I just agreed with him because I had no idea what he was talking about lol

 

[machPete99]

That "turret stop" would get used in conjunction wiht the turret tailstock, index both at same time, so correct stop is in play for given operation.

 

[Alcap]

The lathe is rewired now for 220v , glad I had to because some of the original wires going to the motor were a cloth covered , and the insulation was degrading too . Installed a new Vari-drive belt and I believe the motor should be closer to the countershaft , ( doesn't ride high enough on the top pulley when in slowest speed . The manual says that the motor bracket is doweled and bolted but haven't tried to verify . If it is how would it be adjusted other then shimming the motor up ?

 

[SLK001]

What would be the correct way to remove the spindle adapter on the headstock ? I'm thinking a round wooden dowel from the backside ? I haven't checked but hope it's to bring the headstock's 4 1/2 MT to 3MT .

What's in the spindle is a 5C adapter. To knock it out (it's just the taper that's holding it in), the wooden dowel would work (get an oak, or some other hardwood dowel), of you can use what's called a "knock-out bar". On my lathe, my KO bar is a steel shaft with a head made of brass. You just slide it in the end of the spindle and use the momentum to knock out the adapter. The force required is roughly equal to the force required to knock out a center in the tail stock.

 

[Alcap]

Making a little headway , after making the spacers and plates I leveled it with a supposedly good level , I'll use it a little and in a few weeks have a friend come over with a machinist level to get it correct . Next I'm taking the 3 jaw apart for cleaning , it will only move a little before binding up I'm guessing chips inside causing the issue , I have the chuck on the bench , it is the type that bolts through the face with 3 3/8" allen bolts into a backplate , its stuck tight so installed longer bolts with the back plate up , tried tapping through the spindle hole on a very small area of the chuck with a brass punch , not making too good , I'll try making a driver to catch the little lip that's showing . I'll need to figure out a way to lock the turret out when I want to put a center in , Not sure how much it would take , could just a small bungee or weight on the on of the turret handles be enough ?

 

[Alcap]

The chuck got cleaned out today but now I have another problem , when I locked the spindle to tighten the chuck by turn the knob counterclockwise to engage backgear now I can't return to direct drive . I tried rocking the spindle back and forth , spun the spindle around a few turns in each direction, the backgear/direct pin goes in and out but just can't turn the knob ! I tried posting this question on the Yahoo Clausing group site but it hasn't been posted because it's my first post I think , Edit: Problem found , apparently there's a " Backgear/Direct Lockout" safety feature and the motor direction lever which goes through the head to the drum switch behind the headstock has some type of detent or something even though the motor wasn't on the direction lever was slightly towards REVERSE and once I move it straight up the backgear knob moved very easily

 

[Tim9]

Pull the cover off and pump oil in all the lubrication points. You can lubricate them through the access points on the shown chart.

 

[Tim9]

Forgot to add that once you lube it up, turn the sliding gear by hand. That’s that knurled rod about 1-1/2” in diameter which also has an oil lube point right non the front of it. It can’t be seen on that pic above but it’s right below the hand wheel on the spindle. I find that by turning that sliding gear, the back gear knob and the change gears are easily set.
And.... I see you’ve got it. Anyway I obviously thought you had a different issue. That said....turning the sliding gear is what I have found makes my old Clausing easier to engage the gears when switching modes.