Slipping tail stock

I think if it's bowed I'd make a new one and maybe case harden it for strength , or use 4140 . Or even use thicker steel and cut ledges to keep aligned. Or maybe your applying to much pressure to the tooling . If it takes that much to hold the tailstock . A little to much pressure on locking the tailstock overtime I guess.
 
If it's one of those cam locks with an arm on it then you have to adjust the locking nut under the plate to ensure you're reaching the lobe for maximum pressure, otherwise you could be going over/past or under and not having enough pull on the under plate.
 
Looked into my clausing tailstock clamp yesterday, as I mentioned earlier it has a 5/8" bolt to tighten the clamp. All surfaces were machined smooth. The 5/8" bolt is like a carriage bolt and can move lateral to the ways a little. My Enco lathe has a cam action with an adjusting bolt going through the plate. There is a washer between the bolt and the plate but the plate is rough like just coming out of the mold. Another project!!!
Have a good day
Ray
 
I experience the same thing on my 14x40, especially noticeable with freshly applied way oil. I love how the tailstock slides into position, but that kind of goes against you when you want it to stay put with heavier drilling. I got looking at the underside cast iron clamp plate. Its not the nicest piece of work. I think maybe it could be made larger to base footprint & better width spec & probably double the contact area. I also recall the milled surface finish was really crappy so its more like only the 'tops of the hills' that are truly in contact. Is there anything like brake pad material that one could attach for gription? After all, our disc brakes don't relay on lubricated metal on metal to stop the car :)

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Hi Petertha. Your brake lining idea sounds interesting, but that material does not play well with any kind of oil. I wonder about the material used for wet clutches. That grips and transmits torque and power while being submerged in oil. Might be the ticket. I'll be watching this one for a workable solution in case I have a similar problem when I get a larger lathe.
Randall
 
If I am not mistaken the braking system on the larger mining trucks are similar to the clutches; multi-disk oil cooled. I have one source that I will ask about the availability of a brake disk. These brakes were advertised to get a loaded truck down 2 miles of 8 % grade without fading. Going from memory the disks on an 85 ton truck were about 30 inches OD by approximately 5 inches wide. In the meantime I am going to try to get the paint off the working faces and machined to closer tolerance on the Enco 13x40.
Have a good day
Ray
 
Just à thought that jumped in My mind, I use carbon Grease often when working on high end bicycles. Carbon Grease contains à very tiny grit of sand or No slipping material also Used for polyester surfaces on small boats. It is red in general and does Grease and protect but might be à simple solution to your problem.
Grts
T


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Zathros said:
Just à thought that jumped in My mind, I use carbon Grease often when working on high end bicycles. Carbon Grease contains à very tiny grit of sand or No slipping material also Used for polyester surfaces on small boats. It is red in general and does Grease and protect but might be à simple solution to your problem.
Grts
T


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Zathros, where would a non slip grease be used on a bicycle.....seat post maybe ?
 
Everything that can slide. Or has à clamp. You cannot use the normal anti seize Grease there. All where Carbon touches other Carbon and or aluminium. Or titanium I forgot.


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I would be wary of any type of grit paste getting into places on my lathe I don't want it to be. Just make a longer under-ways plate and you'll be good to go.
 
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