Single Point Threading Between Centers

erikmannie

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Hopefully this will work because I am underway. I parted off some lengths of 1” steel hex, faced and center drilled both sides & chamfered one side.

My setup is a dead center in the spindle nose, faceplate, driving pin, dog on the hex bar (doesn’t seem to be a problem), and a live center.

I am turning this down to 20 mm OD, and we’ll see what happens with the single point threading and chamfering.

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The bolt will be an M20-2.5. The major diameter is 20 mm.

I am turning at 620 RPM with .005”/rev feed. My passes are .889 mm with CF.

This is the sub optimum finish that I am getting.

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Out of curiosity, why the love for turning between centers?

I get when it is necessary (e.g., a shaft with existing centers and concentric features), but for a shop made bolt, why not rip it out in one operation with a 3 jaw chuck? Face, OD turn, thread, Part off partway, chamfer in situ, finish parting off.
 
The finish really does not much matter since you are threading it and will very likely finish/deburr the tops of the threads with a file. Good finish is why I like to use TPG inserts, those molded inserts that you use are not very sharp at the cutting edge; good for roughing, especially with a interrupted cut, but not so nice for finish work.
 
Probably the cutting force making the dog/driver flex and vibrate. Agreed, I'd pop in the three jaw and support with the tailstock center.
 
Here is how it is going. The thread relief OD is 16.1 mm for a minor diameter of 16.933 mm.

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Out of curiosity, why the love for turning between centers?

I get when it is necessary (e.g., a shaft with existing centers and concentric features), but for a shop made bolt, why not rip it out in one operation with a 3 jaw chuck? Face, OD turn, thread, Part off partway, chamfer in situ, finish parting off.

Well, it is not for practical reasons. I tend to not be very pragmatic. I like doing stuff the old ways: gas welding, stick welding, manual machining, and the like.
 
The finish really does not much matter since you are threading it and will very likely finish/deburr the tops of the threads with a file. Good finish is why I like to use TPG inserts, those molded inserts that you use are not very sharp at the cutting edge; good for roughing, especially with a interrupted cut, but not so nice for finish work.

I saw your inserts; they were flat and smooth. I wondered about those; are those for light cuts? I switch to HSS for light cuts.
 
Probably the cutting force making the dog/driver flex and vibrate. Agreed, I'd pop in the three jaw and support with the tailstock center.

I did some with the 3J (and 4J), with and without tail support. That worked very nicely indeed.
 
I saw your inserts; they were flat and smooth. I wondered about those; are those for light cuts? I switch to HSS for light cuts.
I use the TPG inserts with double end Aloris holders and use them for nearly all the work I do, the holders have adjustable chip breakers and work well for both rough and finish work. I have them in both positive and negative rake (negative for interrupted cuts).
 
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