Sheldon (Vernon) Model 0 Horizontal Mill Restoration.

[TomKro]

Great that you're making steady progress.

Your numbers had me curious as to the state of my machine. I get a whopping 0.040 or so on the crossfeed. The other axis is a lot better, but almost 0.015. Your machine is just getting broken in.

 

[RebelJD]

Update #4
Well, I ran out of excuses and finally got around to doing the sandblasting. But, I got the column done and then my sandblaster (pot blaster) clogged up and I didn't get finished with the base. Thats the thing I hate about sandblasting, it requires a lot of maintenance and clean up. I did get it un-clogged and hopefully I'll finish the base later today even though its a little cold out. One benefit to blasting this time of year is the humidity is low and flash rust is not an issue.

The column had a single coat of gray paint which came of easily. The base however had a coat of green paint under the gray. I don't know if the green was original or not.



I got most of the other small parts cleaned up, including the leadscrew nuts. As I mentioned previously, I was able to measure the backlash on the crossfeed but not easy to do on the others so I'll wait until I get to the re-assembly. The nuts cleaned up nice and they look to be in great shape.

 

[TomKro]

Nice job, and thanks for the pics.

The cross feed saddle bracket looks like it would be a real challenge to duplicate. I had to check the parts list to get the proper name for that one. Replacement cost from a long, long time ago (July1, 1946) was listed as $7.50 for that and $7.50 again for the longitudinal nut.

 

[RebelJD]

Update #5
Well, I finally got all the sandblasting done, glad that's over. I also fabricated the small access panel for the column by cutting out the center portion of an old panel I had in "inventory". For the larger access panel on the base I just bought a louvered vent from the big box store. I also tapped the holes in the base for 5/8-11 leveling feet from McMaster-Carr. The holes were already sized for the tap. The feet are rated for 500lbs each and I'll probably put a jam nut on top.

After everything was sandblasted and cleaned, I sprayed a coat of epoxy primer on everything. I then used body filler to fill the voids, sanded it and then sprayed another coat of epoxy primer to seal it up. I then applied two coats of industrial grade polyurethane satin paint. Probably over kill for something like this but this the procedure I always use when restoring cars. I didn't want to paint it the standard gray, so I choose a color that was similar to an old Craftsman power hack saw I have.

I'm going to wait a couple of days for the paint to dry thoroughly, watch some football and start the re-assembly next week.

 

[frugalguido]

What is the name of that color and the brand ? I like it ,not too flashy. My one Deckel mill,, is painted a similar color, it's called mouse gray, RAL 7005.

 

[RebelJD]

I don't really know what the color is called. I picked up some color cards from Menards and picked the one that was close to the color on the old Craftsman saw and took it to the paint store. They scanned it and mixed the color to match the card. Here are some pictures of the can and the color mix recipe label. Hope that helps.

 

[frugalguido]

Thanks for the pictures, are you using any hardener in the paint?

 

[RebelJD]

Yes, it is mixed 4 parts paint, 1 part hardner (activator), and 1 part reducer. I sprayed it with a 1.5 tip.
I didn't keep the paint chip I got from Menards but next time I'm there I'll get another and post it here.

 

[frugalguido]

Thanks for the info, now to find a Valspar industrial dealer.

 

[RebelJD]

Update #6
Because the original crossfeed drive was in such poor condition I decided to replace it with a stepper motor drive system. This will allow easy feedrate adjustments and rapid traverse. I designed this in Fusion 360 by modeling the existing saddle and my modifications. I then created shop drawings and fabricated the parts needed. In case you did not know Fusion 360 is free to hobbyists. There was a bit of a learning curve to it for me, but there are plenty of tutorials and forums online. The ability to create detailed shop drawings is a big help when machining the parts. Here is a screen shot of my design.


There are three machined parts needed for this modification. The replacement "worm wheel" shown in brass above. The replacement basically changes it from a gear drive to timing belt pulley drive. The adapter plate in blue above bolts to the saddle and provides real-estate for the motor adapter plate. The motor adapter plate is slotted to allow for adjustment of the timing belt.

Here are the shop drawings I used to machine the parts.







Here are the finished parts. The timing belt pulley is press fit on the new brass drive pulley hub or "worm wheel", as Vernon called it. The adapter plate is 1 inch cold rolled steel and the motor plate is 1/2" 6061 Aluminium.



I have finished bench testing the electrical system and I'll finish the enclosure for it later. My goal now is to start the re-assembly. I need to work out the spindle motor mounting and then measure for a new drive belt from the motor to the counter shaft.