Sheldon (Vernon) Model 0 Horizontal Mill Restoration.

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RebelJD

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Hello,
I’m restoring a Vernon Model 0 Horizontal Mill and could use some help. The mill is in fair shape but suffers from “amature” repairs over the years. But, definately worthy of a restoration. The interesting thing about this particular machine is that it has a “War Production Board” label on it, although its very faded and hard to read. I think this indicates it was made between 1942 and 1945. It also has a “Vernon” label on the front which is also very hard to read. I think this is before Vernon was aquired by Sheldon. I’d like to reproduce these labels so if anyone has a photo of them I’d sure appreciate seeing them.

I realize this machine has a B&S #9 taper in the spindle but it came with a complete set of collets, 3 arbors, and about two dozen cutters. So I can use my existing end mills, etc. I know many guys convert to R8 taper and I may do that down the road but initially I’ll stick with the B&S.

The ways still show the original oil flaking and the lead screws appear to be in good shape. I’m still evaluating the condition of the rest of the machine but I am moving forward with the restoration. If there is an interest in following the restoration I’d be glad to post updates on my progress.

Thanks in advance for any help or comments.

Jim
 
Those are nice and sturdy- heavy too!
I wouldn't change it to R8- a step backwards IMO
My Diamond mill has B&S #9 also
 
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I doubt I could provide much help, but I'll certainly follow the thread.

Would like to see how the innards of that machine come apart. I acquired a very similar machine many years ago, but work and family pushed it way back in the garage. Retired now, so no excuses.

Good luck with the restoration.

TomKro
 
I have this same mill, but it has no manufacture’s marks whatever on it. It’s a little jewel, I think it just appealed to me out of cuteness. I have it on a roll around stand, made a bunch of spacers for it, and have done a few things with it. Overall, it’s easier to go to the Bridgeport for most tasks I’ve encountered. But if one comes along, I’m ready.
 
So many little horizontal mills coming up lately, looking forward to the restoration and projects once done.

John
 
As mentioned, I would stick with the B&S #9 arbor and collet system. I have a similar era US Machine Tools #1 horizontal mill with the B&S #9 arbor. It works just fine. Collets and arbors are still available. Not quite as cheap as R8's, but generally in the $15.00 to $20.00 range. You can also a get B&S #9 to ER 32 adaptor, #9 end mills, or end mill holders.
 
Nice shop, and project.
 
Thanks for the replies. This will be my first update on the restoration/rebuild.

Frank, I'm familiar with VintageMachinery.org and have downloaded the manual and catalog sheet for this machine. I actually did this before I purchased this machine, so I knew what I was getting into. Having a parts breakdown is a big help when doing something like this. I always compare what is actually in the machine with the drawings and make any notes as to any differences. You never know how long it will be before you get the reassembly.

I have completely disassembled the machine and have done a complete inspection of all the parts. This machine weights about 800lbs so this is a careful process. I've restored a lot of cars over the years and my philosophy has always been to do a complete job. The last thing you want to do is tear something down again to replace to two-dollar item. So this is what I've found. There is both good news and bad news. Some of these I knew about going in. A few of you wanted some details so I'll do what I can. I'll post some relevant pictures below.
  • The covers are missing on the left side, I'll have to make new ones. And there is section of the base casting that is missing in the rear, not a big deal but I'll fix that.
  • The cross-feed hand crank is bent, it feels odd as you turn it. The gib lock lever for the knee is bent too. And the hand crank for the variable speed looks to be a shop made replacement. All this indicates to me that perhaps the machine was hit on that side. All of this can be fixed.
  • The crossfeed drive does not function. This is the biggest problem. The pulley on the rear of the spindle is broken and belt won't stay on. That could easily be fixed but the sprocket gear on the worm gear assembly is missing a tooth. It is a bronze gear, and it looks like someone attempted a repair, but it didn't work. I believe this is a helical gear and I don't have the skills to make a new one and I doubt I could find a replacement. I'm thinking about replacing this mechanical drive system with a small motor. More on this later.
  • The good news is the spindle bearings all look good and the taper is in very good shape. So, per the advice above I'll be staying with the B&S#9 taper system. The hardest thing so far was getting the spindle out. The key for the V-Belt pulley was really stuck. I took my time with a hammer and punch to get it loose as I did not want to damage the spindle shaft in any way.
  • The bearing on the hand crank side of the cross-feed is bad. This was causing some backlash and rough turning. I was surprised to learn this was a double row angular contact bearing. And it is metric. These bearings are common on modern machines (CNC's, etc) but I didn't know they dated back to the early 1940's. I've got a new bearing on order. The bearing number is 5201.
  • The counter shaft bearings are a little rough also, so I've a new set on order too. This was also a metric bearing. I didn't realize metric bearings were so prevalent back then. The bearing number is 487503. I'm assuming these are sealed bearings as I don't see any way to lubricate them.
  • This machine has a very clever motor mounting mechanism. It makes it very easy to adjust belt tension. This machine came with a single phase 1HP 120vac motor, but the previous owner told me there is a strong odor after is runs for a while. So, I suspect either the motor is bad, or the mechanical speed adjust system didn't function properly. So, I have decided to replace the motor and install a VFD. This provides the variable speed by simply turning a speed pot. I already had a 3 phase 1HP motor so I simply purchased an inverter on Amazon. I've tested the motor and VFD and it works fine. Some guys express a concern about VFD's not providing adequate torque at low speeds, but the VFD I purchased has a feature that is supposed to help with this. We'll see if it works ok, if not I can always put the mechanical drive back in.
  • Although the ways do show some wear, I can still see the oil flaking on most of it. I'll do better inspection once I get the machine cleaned up and decide if any hand scraping will be needed. I'm by no means an experienced scraper but I have been studying and practicing so I'm not afraid to tackle it if needed.
Next up will be the cleaning process, the worst of which will be sandblasting the base and column. This will be weather permitting as I live in the Midwest. Comments and suggestions are appreciated.

Jim


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