I actually worked as a journey level machinist for many years. All the lathes, and milling machines in the shop were three phase. So this single phase issue was something I never even had to think about until now. I appreciate the info!
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Setting-up the PM 1236-T Lathe
- Thread starter Titanium Knurler
- Start date
I actually worked as a journey level machinist for many years. All the lathes, and milling machines in the shop were three phase. So this single phase issue was something I never even had to think about until now. I appreciate the info!
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- Apr 20, 2019
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- 166
Thankfully my work has now slowed down. I won’t be doing anything until cottage season is over! I’m looking forward to winter.
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- Jun 23, 2019
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Was thinking more in the line of: I start a reply and don't want to post it. I'm stuck in it. It's probably so simple that no one can believe I ask such a question.
Mikey answered this, in post 222. Easy to miss, so I'll copy his response here:
"In the reply window where you typed your thing that you want to delete, hit Ctrl+A to highlight everything and hit Delete. Then go up to the floppy disc icon at the top of the window, just to the left of the settings wheel, and click. It will give you the option to either save or delete your draft. Select Delete draft and close the reply window and that will do it. "
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- Jan 18, 2018
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Hi COWDOC, I used pads from Mc!aster-Carr.
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- Dec 16, 2013
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I am really late to this party, however I too trudged through the whole thread. Very fun and lots of good Ideas. One thing that concerned me from the beginning was floating the lathe essentially in mid air. The 1/2" plate would do very little to resist twist in the ways. I believe it is possible that simply making a cut could be introducing twist in this lathe. A lathe needs a stout column between the headstock and tailstock, or a solid anchor. Anyway food for thought. Tk, if you are still around, I hope you are enjoying the lathe and that little girl! She's got to be over 2, about time for another one! 
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- Jan 18, 2018
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Hi Steve,
I admit the system is unusual but it works; the lathe has maintained it’s adjustment. In fact, I just checked the tailstock alignment with the Edge alignment bar the other day and found it to be aligned within a tenth. However, I can’t say that I feel that it is the best set-up for everyone. It does allow me to move the lathe easily without affecting adjustment but I have found I don’t move the lathe as much as I thought I would and the system was expensive and I am sure has more vibration than the traditional set-up.
I would have to say the most useful modification has been the hand wheel and spider. I realized how much I use the hand wheel when I took it off the other day to put a new belt on and kept reaching for it. It’s just nice to grab the hand wheel instead of the chuck when checking runout or checking to make sure all is clear before turning the lathe on.
I hope that helps,
TK
I admit the system is unusual but it works; the lathe has maintained it’s adjustment. In fact, I just checked the tailstock alignment with the Edge alignment bar the other day and found it to be aligned within a tenth. However, I can’t say that I feel that it is the best set-up for everyone. It does allow me to move the lathe easily without affecting adjustment but I have found I don’t move the lathe as much as I thought I would and the system was expensive and I am sure has more vibration than the traditional set-up.
I would have to say the most useful modification has been the hand wheel and spider. I realized how much I use the hand wheel when I took it off the other day to put a new belt on and kept reaching for it. It’s just nice to grab the hand wheel instead of the chuck when checking runout or checking to make sure all is clear before turning the lathe on.
I hope that helps,
TK
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2017
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- 1,214
I realize I'm responding to something you mentioned in 2019, but I had a mostly useless, academic thought I wanted to run by you
When I read this part of your post, I wondered just how much more rigid would the d1-5 in the g4003g be than a d1-4 in a similar class of machine.
So, the point on the spindle that would be subject to the most deflection stress should be the main spindle bearing behind the spindle, right?
I looked up the specs on 2 similar machines, with each respective spindle. The g4003g and the g4003.
The G4003g has a d1-5 spindle with a 1.57" spindle bore and, according to manual uses a 30212 (60mm Id, or 2.3622" ) bearing. That would make the spindles wall thickness @ the main bearing 0.3961"
The G4003 has a d1-4 spindle, and according to the manual has a 1.417" spindle bore. It also uses the 30212 bearing. That would make the spindle wall thickness @ the main bearing .4725".
So, regardless of the d1-5 spindle mount, the g4003g spindles OD @ the bearing boss is the same as that of the g4003 @ 60mm ( 2.3622"). But the 4003g has a significantly larger bore, and correspondingly less spindle wall thickness.
Taking that into consideration, I wonder just how much more rigid is the g4003g spindle? May even be less rigid, perhaps?
A purely academic thought, since I own neither machine.
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So the outer spindle diameter is the same? Wonder why they didn't just use the same spindle...