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- Oct 16, 2019
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If I recall correctly I went looser so that there was less engagement and the lever could pass over center.Mmmm. I'll go play with mine and see what happens. Do you remember if you went tighter or looser?
If I recall correctly I went looser so that there was less engagement and the lever could pass over center.Mmmm. I'll go play with mine and see what happens. Do you remember if you went tighter or looser?
Yeah, that looks like mine but there is no hole for #'s 19, 20, 21.Will this help? It’s parts list for horizontal & underdrive 9” models fron June 15 1957.
The toolmaker or workshop models. Not the Junior (or heavy 9) which was discontinued in late 30’s or in the 40’s.
rvbeemer your lathe is not a junior or heavy 9.
it is an early workshop or toolmaker From the ’30’s. It has top spindle oilers.
also, to convert an early C like yours (there was not an A, B, or C model in the early ones) you would need a frame as well as the gearbox, as the frame did not have the relieved frame that the later A B or C had.
David, I see you have two bolts, one on each end. The restoration manual says "The slotted screw is for the gear mesh adjustment and the square head bolt is for the eccentric adjustment." I don't have the square head bolt or hole. 1935 modelThese are the only bolts I adjusted.
If I recall correctly, the slotted adjuster is for the engagement and the regular hex head locks the eccentric in place.
If you only have the one maybe it does double duty?
Maybe the one bolt on yours does both functions?David, I see you have two bolts, one on each end. The restoration manual says "The slotted screw is for the gear mesh adjustment and the square head bolt is for the eccentric adjustment." I don't have the square head bolt or hole. 1935 model