ROTEX RM-1 Rebuild (kind of)

[markba633csi]

Nope, no real problems. Having 3 tee slots is nice but I mostly use the middle one. I use the swivel base a lot, especially when using the horizontal spindle to hold an endmill or flycutter
I wish I knew who made that vise though. No markings on it at all except degrees

 

[aztoyman]

Hmm, I wasn't going to get one with a swivel base. Maybe I should rethink that. Either way it looks like I can go for the 4" vise after seeing it on your mill. Thanks again.

I might get the screwless one for now. I don't know how long it will be before Shars has their model in stock again. I'll post up pics whenever I do get one just to add to this Rotex RM1 thread.

 

[markba633csi]

4" is a nice size- your machine table is about the same size as mine. I think the 5" will be taller but I could be mistaken. I do mostly small parts.
Some vises the swivel base is optional so you could buy it later if you wanted; with a combination machine it gives more part-holding options IMO
I like as much flexibility as possible- I don't mind re-aligning and re-tramming things often, it comes with the territory on this type of machine

 

[aztoyman]

I got this vise for now. The vise I want is not in stock. This might work out fine for what I do. https://www.shars.com/products/workholding/vise/4-x-4-7-8-precision-toolmakers-vise

If not, I'll get this one when it's available. https://www.shars.com/products/workholding/vise/4-440v-cnc-milling-machine-vise-0-0004-1

I haven't had a chance to mount it yet. I'll post pics once I do.

Thanks everyone.
Scott

 

[aztoyman]

Here's some pics of the vise for reference to anyone else with one of these mills.

Knee is all the way down. Various table positions. Now I just need to buy or make some hold-downs. And figure out the best position to mount it.

 

[Danx931]

I think I have everything cleaned and painted. I can't really finish until I get the new bearing.

I think it will help my old eyes see the dials if I paint the lines and numbers. Anybody have a good method to do so?

Here's the bearings. The lower one on the spindle is a Norma Hoffman 9020 DD.

The upper spindle bearing is a Norma Hoffman 9017 DD.

The two on the shaft that supports the drive pulley are a pair of Norma Hoffman 6105 PPA.

The one I need to replace is the lower spindle bearing. There is no modern replacement available. I did find one online from www.locateballbearings,com.

I hope this helps any other ROTEX RM-1 owners out there.

View attachment 380391

Hi there! Thanks for this posting, It's a great resource! I hope you are still posting!
I am starting to rebuild my Rotex-RM1 with a verticle head. First, the motor is frozen and needs replacement; then, the spindle rotates, but the quill is locked up solidly. I've applied lube everywhere with no luck so far. Do you have any suggestions about that? Then I have the same problem you describe regarding the spindle pulley- it is frozen on the spindle shaft. Can you let me know how you got yours off? You mentioned drilling a hole in the housing?

Thanks, Dan

 

[aztoyman]

Hi Dan, I haven't been posting much so fortunately I got an alert on my phone. There's not much out there on this machine so I'm glad you found this thread and that it helped.

Yep, if I had to do it again I would have drilled a hole in the housing large enough to get a drift inline with the shaft. Also, the pulley is very brittle so support it somehow. Just so it doesn't tilt when you try to drive it off.

I'm no expert for heavy rust but I'm on an old Ford forum where there are many solutions for freeing up rust stuck engines. One favorite I've read about but never tried is ATF (transmission fluid) mixed 50/50 with Acetone. I've seen other products suggested such as Evaporust or home built electrolysis tanks. Time and patience seems to be important to avoid parts breakage.

Good luck with your project!

 

[Danx931]

Hi Dan, I haven't been posting much so fortunately I got an alert on my phone. There's not much out there on this machine so I'm glad you found this thread and that it helped.

Yep, if I had to do it again I would have drilled a hole in the housing large enough to get a drift inline with the shaft. Also, the pulley is very brittle so support it somehow. Just so it doesn't tilt when you try to drive it off.

I'm no expert for heavy rust but I'm on an old Ford forum where there are many solutions for freeing up rust stuck engines. One favorite I've read about but never tried is ATF (transmission fluid) mixed 50/50 with Acetone. I've seen other products suggested such as Evaporust or home built electrolysis tanks. Time and patience seems to be important to avoid parts breakage.

Good luck with your project!

Hi Scott, Thanks for your reply and suggestions! I'll give the ATF and acetone a try... As far as the hole goes, I am not sure where to drill it. Would it be in line with the large sheave on the bottom side of the aluminum housing? Sure wish they would have made that housing a split housing!

Hum... I just took another look at my housing; it has a frozen pin in line with the large pulley sheave. See the attached picture. I don't see one of those in your pictures.

Many Thanks, Dan

 

[aztoyman]

It's been too long. I'll have to go look at mine tomorrow.

I couldn't get the step pulley off the motor shaft. I had the motor apart but the armature shaft was stuck in the pulley. I ended up breaking a piece off the pulley removing it the way I did.

After the fact, I thought I should have drilled a hole in the housing inline with the shaft so I could have used a drift directly on the shaft. Making sure the pulley was flat and supported. It rocked in the housing on me and is what caused my pulley to break.

 

[aztoyman]

Dan, is the pin that's frozen the vertical one with the black knob? If so, that's to lock the pulley from rotating so you can use a wrench to loosen the collet on the spindle. Spindle lock I guess it would be called.