[How do I?] Repair A Table-saw Mitre Gauge......

You can center punch near the edges of your Delta miter gauge to tighten it up in the groove. But,I think it is unsightly and never did it.

I had to take my Incra apart and mill a groove all the way down the side of the bar. On my Clausing table saw,there is a key sticking out into the miter gauge slot that prevents the miter gauge from falling out when it's extended out past the table.

If your saw has such an arrangement,you can expect to either mill such a groove,or try removing that key.

The newer Incra miter gauges include a round washer that attaches to the end of the bar for just this purpose - no milling involved.
 
Combining all the suggestions... Buy a nice new accurate INCRA miter gauge, then practice your TIG welding on the broken one! Win-win.

Kevin
 
Do a BING search for "homemade miter gauge"
Look at the IMAGES,you will see all kinds of homemade miter gauges. Build one, this is hobby machinist board. Anybody can buy one.
 
Use a wire wheel to get the bottom shiny clean of paint and dirt.

Make some deep scratches in the metal.

Locate some small all thread that will rest inside the bottom and be below the edges.

Get some high strength slow cure epoxy.

Clean everything with acetone and mix a batch of epoxy and first coat edges and clamp together then brush coat the bottom rubbing into scratches then set in pieces of all thread across cracks (think rebar) now brush epoxy into the threads rolling them to be sure all coated well.

Not fill area with epoxy and let cure for a couple days but be sure it is still flat.



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Welding and welders r-------really hate JB weld(epoxy), if there is a chance to save a part with welding do not try a home temp fix with JB and then try welding. Bolt, weld, or replace. .02 cents worth.
Yes there are very good(expensive compounds) not usually found in DIY stores,to fasten things
 
Combining all the suggestions... Buy a nice new accurate INCRA miter gauge, then practice your TIG welding on the broken one! Win-win.
Kevin

I'd follow this path from the other direction.

Try TIG. And when I couldn't get it right, go and buy a new one.
 
Epoxy and all other glue type products depend strongly upon SURFACE AREA for a strong repair. There is not going to be sufficient surface area for epoxy type products to be strong enough to work.
 
Brino, Personally, I would purchase a new one. Shop Fox makes a nice miter gauge and it's a good excuse to buy one.

Barring that, are you sure it is aluminum and not Zamak? If you weld it, definitely clean it back to bare metal. It would be my expectation that you will get warpage which could affect the utility of your gauge though.

The J B Weld should work due to the forces during use being compressive in nature. I would add a bottom plate by reducing the height of the webs underneath to provide space for the plate. I would expect the repair to be stronger than the original.

Bob
If a bottom plate insn't feasible I'd fill the space between the webs with JB Weld with bits of threaded rod for reinforcing.
 
I see so many of those miter gauges at the flea market for penny’s. It’s not worth saving. You can buy all kinds of fancy ones, but I’m not a big fan of any of them. Just like the new fangled rip fences that caught the fancy of so many wood workers. That’s the model that only locks at the front. Why people like them, I have no idea? I have the old Delta that locks front and back, totally love it and would not have it any other way, period. Back to the miter talk. If I want accurate miters, I go to the chop saw. IMO you cannot duplicate that accuracy on the table saw. And I’m talking, light tight joints. Ever job or cut can be different. A long piece of wood for example on a table saw is too awkward, but not on a chop saw. So, as for what to do, I would replace it. Doesn’t need to be fancy, maybe get one that has buttons or adjustments in the bar so that it tracks better in the saw table slot. And if you do not have a chop saw, I would get one of those too…Good Luck, Dave
 
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I see so many of those miter gauges at the flea market for penny’s. It’s not worth saving. You can buy all kinds of fancy ones, but I’m not a big fan of any of them. Just like the new fangled rip fences that caught the fancy of so many wood works. That’s the model that only locks at the front. Why people like them, I have no idea? I have the old Delta that locks front and back, totally love it and would not have it any other way, period. Back to the miter talk. If I want accurate miters, I go to the chop saw. IMO you cannot duplicate that accuracy on the table saw. And I’m talking, light tight joints. Ever job or cut can be different. A long piece of wood for example on a table saw is too awkward, but not on a chop saw. So, as for what to do, I would replace it. Doesn’t need to be fancy, maybe get one that has buttons or adjustments in the bar so that it tracks better in the saw table slot. And if you do not have a chop saw, I would get one of those too…Good Luck, Dave

The problem with chop saws is also accuracy. First, if you have a larger 12" chop saw, there's too much flex in the blade for truly accurate cuts. They are best suited to rough carpentry applications. 10 in. saws are better, but be sure to check the square of the fence. Some saws have a 1-piece fence that cannot be adjusted true and need to be removed and ground straight. As for table saws, there are many VERY accurate saws out there and if you have a cheaper one there are many ways to accurize them, for instance, adding machined pulleys, a link belt and I got something called Saw Pals that attache to the rear trunnion that allow adjustment of the blade's parallelism to the slots to be adjusted with allen keys and locked rather than just loosened up and knocked into place with a chunk of wood and a hammer!

That and other accessories and aftermarket fences and jigs have allowed me scary accuracy.

Kevin
 
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