[How do I?] Repair A Table-saw Mitre Gauge......

brino

brino

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Hi Guys,

I think I know the answer, but was looking for ideas.

My mitre gauge fell off the table saw, hit the concrete and broke. It is an aluminum casting.
It is a clean break.....

gauge1.jpg gauge2.jpg gauge3.jpg

gauge4.jpg

As shown above, it is relatively thin with some "webs" underneath.

I briefly thought about jb-weld, but I think the proper way is TIG.
The problem is that I'm not very good with TIG yet.

I know the key is practice, practice, practice......

Any hints on how you would approach it?

Would you simply grind the paint back?
I've have TIG success on steel with 1 amp per thou. thickness; does the same rule-of-thumb apply to Al?
Should I bolt or clamp it down before welding to prevent distortion?
Should I do the welds from the backside only to maintain aesthetics?
Suggestions on current, tungsten size and filler rod?

Any other tricks/advise?

Thanks!
-brino
 
Make sure it's not bent first of all. I would remove all paint from the break, grind a small V on the split, then with a sharp tungsten on low amperage using small diameter aluminum filler rod try and fill the gap.

However it's probably not aluminum, most likely a zinc/aluminum mix. I would look for another, the old Craftsman atlas ones are very nice.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Cra...r-Table-Saw-/331630675474?hash=item4d36ba8612
 
My personal solution would be to dump that thing and buy an Incra miter gauge. They are vastly superior to these old gauges and you will not regret it. However, if you are hopelessly attached to this dinosaur-type thing I have an old one off my Craftsman saw that I can send to you.
 
Brino, Personally, I would purchase a new one. Shop Fox makes a nice miter gauge and it's a good excuse to buy one.

Barring that, are you sure it is aluminum and not Zamak? If you weld it, definitely clean it back to bare metal. It would be my expectation that you will get warpage which could affect the utility of your gauge though.

The J B Weld should work due to the forces during use being compressive in nature. I would add a bottom plate by reducing the height of the webs underneath to provide space for the plate. I would expect the repair to be stronger than the original.

Bob
 
Make one! Use the bar and handel off of the busted one and make a sled out of aluminum stock. Use a piece of hard wood for a replacable fence.


Sent from somewhere in East Texas Jake Parker
 
Repairing in my opinion is iffy at best. I see it being awfully tough holding is square to weld. Sometimes it is better to bite the bullet and get a new one. I say this is the time. Also they are not overly expensive.

"Billy G"
 
Wow! Thanks for the immediate and complete responses!

Andre and Bob, Yes It could be zamak (or something similar), I should have thought of that.....

Mikey, I am not really attached to it at all; the Incra ones look nice, but are somewhat expensive. Thanks for the offer of your old one, let me decide first.....

Bob, never looked at shop-fox, I will look them up......

Jake, the thought of making a replacement had occurred to me.....I like the hardwood sacrificial fence idea!

Andre, mikey, Bob, Jake and Billy, looks like everyone agrees on replacing it. I guess I got some surfing and shopping to do.

Thanks Again!
-brino
 
I knocked my DeWalt 12" miter saw off the bench, breaking the base at the rear mounting leg. About an 8" long break. Used JB Weld on the underside of the break and have been using it like that for four years now. Suspect it would work really well on your miter gage. Also would expect that a weld might distort the piece making it inaccurate. But agree that the miter gages are easy to find and some really good ones are on the market.
 
If you do a lot of woodworking, get a good miter gauge, Brino. I have and love the Incra 1000 HD - costs more but does more and with great precision. This translates into time and money saved.
 
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