Precision Mathews PM1440E LB lathe

Another thing I do is get rid of the too hard to move springs under the dials. I drill and tap a hole in each dial,and make a knurled knob. When the knob is loosened,the dials rotate effortlessly to reset to zero,etc,without nudging the crossfeed or compound feed screws.

This is on my todo list already, appreciate the reminder, that will help get me moving.



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I ought to post pictures when I get some made. Nothing special about the knurled knob though. Just about a 10/24 threaded shank with a flat top knob 1/8" thick,knurled before cutting off. 1/2" in diameter. Be careful WHERE on the dial you put yours. I like to see the "0" near my knob,so I can easily set it. Basically similar to older lathes that already had them. Today,they think it is more "streamlined" or something,to stick those hard to move leaf springs under the dials. They are always WAY too frictioney to move easily.
 
One thing I have done to a couple of Taiwan lathes,is get rid of those cheap looking sheet metal cursers for the dials. I made up new ones with long,tapered,hollow ground(sort of) very thin needle tips,rather than those fat inked marks. It's easier to split thousandths with a nice,fine tipped needle to look at,which is no thicker on the ends than the width of the markings on the dials. Make them nice and close to the surfaces of the dials to eliminate parallax,and to not get anything caught on them. I have never caught anything(like clothing or a rag,on mine,yet,they do not actually touch the dials and scratch them.

Another thing I do is get rid of the too hard to move springs under the dials. I drill and tap a hole in each dial,and make a knurled knob. When the knob is loosened,the dials rotate effortlessly to reset to zero,etc,without nudging the crossfeed or compound feed screws.

Great tip George. I thought about that because I like the knurled locking screws on the Hardinge lathes. I wasn't quite sure how to go about it but never had time to tear one of my handles/dials apart. Looks like I will have to make time now. Do you have any pictures of said knurled lock screws?

Thanks.
 
I done the same thing to my 9x20 dials. They did not have a spring that was hard but rather an alan head in the front. I drilled them through the 0 and tapped them. No room elsewhere. It makes it so much easier to set or reset. Awesome tip man
 
I ought to post pictures when I get some made. Nothing special about the knurled knob though. Just about a 10/24 threaded shank with a flat top knob 1/8" thick,knurled before cutting off. 1/2" in diameter. Be careful WHERE on the dial you put yours. I like to see the "0" near my knob,so I can easily set it. Basically similar to older lathes that already had them. Today,they think it is more "streamlined" or something,to stick those hard to move leaf springs under the dials. They are always WAY too frictioney to move easily.

George, do you put the lock screws in the face of the dial or the outside diameter? I have seen them in both, just curious.

Thanks.
 
I am soooo jealous. I want one, but unless Matt gave em away for free, I would be out. Oh well I still have a 7X10 and 9X19 so I don't really have a lot to complain about anyway...

Bob
 
Caution: Some people may find the following pics too revealing.

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A shot behind the apron

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Bottom of the bed from tailstock end.
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No sand.
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Under the bed and apron from headstock.
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Up through the bed with the carriage centered over the opening.
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A view of the tailstock through the bore. Red fuzzies are from me swabbing with a cheap shop rag.

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Machine porn, I love it.:roflmao:
 
What a daunting task it must seem to keep her that clean from this point forward :nervous:
(Said with a vbg)
Rich
 
What a daunting task it must seem to keep her that clean from this point forward
(Said with a vbg)
Rich

Yes, especially given the high standard set by Darkzero! But I'm going to try, but not with cheap red shop rags anymore.
 
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